Required Cooling?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
Required Cooling?
i have been searching all day, but for some reason searching while on my phone just sucks. since this is a relatively simple question, i figured i could get away with a repost (i know it's been covered) without getting flamed much LOL.
so.. i HPDE my IX MR a few times per year. at least one of those times is during the summer in the Buttonwillow heat. when i was all stock, with an exhaust and tune, i never had an issue with oil temps. they stayed right where i liked them. i now have upgrades that are giving me a bit of concern. i've added:
MAP ef2.5
Greddy 265 easy cams
FIC 1050 injectors
fuel pump.
we're still tuning, but i'm right around 380-385whp and am concerned i will run into some heat issues. i wrapped my downpipe and added gold tape to my oil pan in hopes of keeping things a bit cooler.
my main question is will i need an upgraded oil cooler or have you guys been doing well with the stock unit? i have the OEM bumper and ducting still in place, so it's shrouded as it should be.
so.. i HPDE my IX MR a few times per year. at least one of those times is during the summer in the Buttonwillow heat. when i was all stock, with an exhaust and tune, i never had an issue with oil temps. they stayed right where i liked them. i now have upgrades that are giving me a bit of concern. i've added:
MAP ef2.5
Greddy 265 easy cams
FIC 1050 injectors
fuel pump.
we're still tuning, but i'm right around 380-385whp and am concerned i will run into some heat issues. i wrapped my downpipe and added gold tape to my oil pan in hopes of keeping things a bit cooler.
my main question is will i need an upgraded oil cooler or have you guys been doing well with the stock unit? i have the OEM bumper and ducting still in place, so it's shrouded as it should be.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I did upgrade the fmic but am worried about oil temps. ill keep an eye out and upgrade if needed. I just hate to find out once I'm already there. first event will hopefully be in March. should be good.
You shouldn't have any problems. We have run several cars with similar power in 100deg Texas heat all day long.
But, upgrading your oil cooler, a bigger radiator, and even the AMS oil pan will help if you are really concerned about it.
But, upgrading your oil cooler, a bigger radiator, and even the AMS oil pan will help if you are really concerned about it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
the wrap was a "i have some of this right now" kinda thing. I daily the car so can't send the DP out for coating, unfortunately.
an oil pan is a given. I'm waiting to score a used one.
an oil pan is a given. I'm waiting to score a used one.
Are you running a good 20-50 for track days already?
Oil pan and kiggly hla are cheap insurance IMO. There is a link somewhere that a guy used a small fan in front of the oil cooler and had great results. If you look at the "airflow math" while the car is going over 35mph it doesn't work but from his track experience it did.
I would also add octane if you can and run the correct timing for it.Lower timing will lead to higher EGT's and higher temps.
There is also a gates 170* thermostat on the market which will help out a little on track days. Redline water wetter and water is also better at cooling then antifreeze/water.
I'd check the insulation strips between the radiator and the body. They help keep the air going thru the radiator not around it.
Random tip for cooling down after running is pull your a/c compressor fuse in the engine compartment. It will turn both fans to help cool the car on a cool down lap or in the pits. It will change the afr/idle as well, so its only a cool down trick.
If you end up needing a Rad, spend the money on something nice.
Oil pan and kiggly hla are cheap insurance IMO. There is a link somewhere that a guy used a small fan in front of the oil cooler and had great results. If you look at the "airflow math" while the car is going over 35mph it doesn't work but from his track experience it did.
I would also add octane if you can and run the correct timing for it.Lower timing will lead to higher EGT's and higher temps.
There is also a gates 170* thermostat on the market which will help out a little on track days. Redline water wetter and water is also better at cooling then antifreeze/water.
I'd check the insulation strips between the radiator and the body. They help keep the air going thru the radiator not around it.
Random tip for cooling down after running is pull your a/c compressor fuse in the engine compartment. It will turn both fans to help cool the car on a cool down lap or in the pits. It will change the afr/idle as well, so its only a cool down trick.
If you end up needing a Rad, spend the money on something nice.
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Buttonwillow is my favorite track, just not a fan of Riverside. That sweeper draws oil away from the pickup.
I've got a baffled pan and a crank scraper now though.
I've got a baffled pan and a crank scraper now though.
We are beginning R&D for an "Evo Cooling Kit." It will be intended for dedicated track cars (or people brave enough to remove their A/C).
It will consist of the following:
Larger oil cooler with tabs to install it in front if the core support with all necessary lines
Thicker radiator mounted within the core support with all necessary lines
Fiberglass/carbon fiber ducts for the bumper openings
Brake duct kit (hoses and caliper mounts)
Shrouding for the intercooler and radiators.
It will be pretty expensive, but contain everything you would ever want for cooling.
It will consist of the following:
Larger oil cooler with tabs to install it in front if the core support with all necessary lines
Thicker radiator mounted within the core support with all necessary lines
Fiberglass/carbon fiber ducts for the bumper openings
Brake duct kit (hoses and caliper mounts)
Shrouding for the intercooler and radiators.
It will be pretty expensive, but contain everything you would ever want for cooling.
We are beginning R&D for an "Evo Cooling Kit." It will be intended for dedicated track cars (or people brave enough to remove their A/C). It will consist of the following: Larger oil cooler with tabs to install it in front if the core support with all necessary lines Thicker radiator mounted within the core support with all necessary lines Fiberglass/carbon fiber ducts for the bumper openings Brake duct kit (hoses and caliper mounts) Shrouding for the intercooler and radiators. It will be pretty expensive, but contain everything you would ever want for cooling. 
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
Are you running a good 20-50 for track days already?
Oil pan and kiggly hla are cheap insurance IMO. There is a link somewhere that a guy used a small fan in front of the oil cooler and had great results. If you look at the "airflow math" while the car is going over 35mph it doesn't work but from his track experience it did.
I would also add octane if you can and run the correct timing for it.Lower timing will lead to higher EGT's and higher temps.
There is also a gates 170* thermostat on the market which will help out a little on track days. Redline water wetter and water is also better at cooling then antifreeze/water.
I'd check the insulation strips between the radiator and the body. They help keep the air going thru the radiator not around it.
Random tip for cooling down after running is pull your a/c compressor fuse in the engine compartment. It will turn both fans to help cool the car on a cool down lap or in the pits. It will change the afr/idle as well, so its only a cool down trick.
If you end up needing a Rad, spend the money on something nice.
Oil pan and kiggly hla are cheap insurance IMO. There is a link somewhere that a guy used a small fan in front of the oil cooler and had great results. If you look at the "airflow math" while the car is going over 35mph it doesn't work but from his track experience it did.
I would also add octane if you can and run the correct timing for it.Lower timing will lead to higher EGT's and higher temps.
There is also a gates 170* thermostat on the market which will help out a little on track days. Redline water wetter and water is also better at cooling then antifreeze/water.
I'd check the insulation strips between the radiator and the body. They help keep the air going thru the radiator not around it.
Random tip for cooling down after running is pull your a/c compressor fuse in the engine compartment. It will turn both fans to help cool the car on a cool down lap or in the pits. It will change the afr/idle as well, so its only a cool down trick.
If you end up needing a Rad, spend the money on something nice.
i'm still working on the oil pan. there aren't many used ones avail. i found a vendor that baffles the OEM one. that's another option; it looks really good.
i would think a fan would hurt airflow on the oil cooler, but that's interesting info. i'm assuming to add it as a puller?
we commonly use Torco octane booster with great results. just in case. knock is a b**ch.
i was hoping for a decently-priced thermostat. that's awesome news, thank you! also, water wetter is a staple for me, i've always used it. where i live doesn't get below freezing, so it's never really been a concern for me. if it were, i'd drain it for af/water for the winter anyway.
i like the idea of pulling the fuse. i'll try that for sure.
insulation strips are intact. i make sure of that.
nice setup! sadly, i drive my car to and from events. i will NEVER do this without A/C haha.
We have 7 NASA TT cars at Evolution Dynamics to test this on.
i would think a fan would hurt airflow on the oil cooler, but that's interesting info. i'm assuming to add it as a puller?
we commonly use Torco octane booster with great results. just in case. knock is a b**ch.
i was hoping for a decently-priced thermostat. that's awesome news, thank you! also, water wetter is a staple for me, i've always used it. where i live doesn't get below freezing, so it's never really been a concern for me. if it were, i'd drain it for af/water for the winter anyway.
i like the idea of pulling the fuse. i'll try that for sure.
insulation strips are intact. i make sure of that.
20/50 oil. Alot of people (gsc/english/engine builders) prefer 20/50 on track days for added protection. Brad penn or Valvoline VR1 are pretty good.
The AMS pan is hard to beat, it holds 1.5 more qts of oil that will help with temps and starvation. Install takes a little time but can be done in an afternoon.
As far as the fan setup goes, The math doesn't add up but in his case it worked on back to back testing. I think he was at Sebring,FL in the summer with track temps over 110*. You will have to search for it. I think he had it setup as a pusher.
Last edited by golgo13; Feb 3, 2014 at 03:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
i would think a fan would hurt airflow on the oil cooler, but that's interesting info. i'm assuming to add it as a puller?
we commonly use Torco octane booster with great results. just in case. knock is a b**ch.
i was hoping for a decently-priced thermostat. that's awesome news, thank you! also, water wetter is a staple for me, i've always used it. where i live doesn't get below freezing, so it's never really been a concern for me. if it were, i'd drain it for af/water for the winter anyway.
i like the idea of pulling the fuse. i'll try that for sure.
insulation strips are intact. i make sure of that.
20/50 oil. Alot of people (gsc/english/engine builders) prefer 20/50 on track days for added protection. Brad penn or Valvoline VR1 are pretty good.
The AMS pan is hard to beat, it holds 1.5 more qts of oil that will help with temps and starvation. Install takes a little time but can be done in an afternoon.
As far as the fan setup goes, The math doesn't add up but in his case it worked on back to back testing. I think he was at Sebring,FL in the summer with track temps over 110*. You will have to search for it. I think he had it setup as a pusher.
the Killer B pan i put on my Subaru was a b**ch. the AMS one is just as difficult? i guees nothing is ever easy.
i can also do back-to-back testing on a fan. i cant have it on and off in minutes if i do a puller. i'll give it a shot.. why not? if not decent results, i'll try as a pusher. i don't want to get in the way of air flow and i also don't want to have to alter the cooler shroud.
Buttonwillow gets really hot, though i don't know if i'll be doing a summer event. i'm sure i will, though, so i'd like to be prepared to NOT kill the car.
Last edited by golgo13; Feb 3, 2014 at 03:08 PM.









