oil temps/pressure at the track?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
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From: Fresno, CA
If you want to go the oil filter route you can use something like this: http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...?productid=330.
Been running that for years. On the temps, I was hoping to see it on my videos, but the guages angle to the driver and away from the camera so it's hard to see.
Been running that for years. On the temps, I was hoping to see it on my videos, but the guages angle to the driver and away from the camera so it's hard to see.
He's right, 240-260 is about average, 230-240 is ideal, 280-300 is the limit. But having great racing oil makes or breaks you in any range. If you're running 180-200 then your driving Ms. Daisy around town or something because I hit 180 sitting in the garage.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I remember being at 250° during a summer Time Attack event. It does get hot.
oil temps/pressure at the track?
Originally Posted by Balrok
He's right, 240-260 is about average, 230-240 is ideal, 280-300 is the limit. But having great racing oil makes or breaks you in any range. If you're running 180-200 then your driving Ms. Daisy around town or something because I hit 180 sitting in the garage.
Just to say, my normally aspirated '06 RA was running 270-280 oil temp during 30 minute sessions. So I installed a large B&M oil cooler, a crank scraper, and modded the hood with a proper evo-style vent to extract hot engine bay air. Now running 240 during hottest summer lapping days, which is very acceptable. The car has what, maybe 160 whp? So, I don't understand the other claims that an evo being caned around the track generating 2X the power runs cooler than this - please explain.
Last edited by RalliartN; Aug 31, 2015 at 12:13 PM.
i mount my oem oil cooler up front. used to have the oil temp sensor in the pan (because turbo oil feed line was in the filter housing), and it would read around 220-230 after a few hot laps (in TT). now i have the sensor in the oil filter housing, and oil temp is around 250 after 20+ minutes session. i use Amsoil 15w50 dominator in summer, and use Amsoil 10w40 in spring and fall where ambient temp is around 30-60
as for oil pressure, you should be getting 100-120 psi above 3k rpm. don't be surprise if you see oil pressure drop during long right sweeper turns.
as for oil pressure, you should be getting 100-120 psi above 3k rpm. don't be surprise if you see oil pressure drop during long right sweeper turns.
Last edited by honda-guy; Aug 31, 2015 at 12:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
^^this
Just to say, my normally aspirated '06 RA was running 270-280 oil temp during 30 minute sessions. So I installed a large B&M oil cooler, a crank scraper, and modded the hood with a proper evo-style vent to extract hot engine bay air. Now running 240 during hottest summer lapping days, which is very acceptable. The car has what, maybe 160 whp? So, I don't understand the other claims that an evo being caned around the track generating 2X the power runs cooler than this - please explain.
Just to say, my normally aspirated '06 RA was running 270-280 oil temp during 30 minute sessions. So I installed a large B&M oil cooler, a crank scraper, and modded the hood with a proper evo-style vent to extract hot engine bay air. Now running 240 during hottest summer lapping days, which is very acceptable. The car has what, maybe 160 whp? So, I don't understand the other claims that an evo being caned around the track generating 2X the power runs cooler than this - please explain.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Atlanta, GA
I've read around the forums (not tested myself) that removing/adding the duct from the front fascia to the oil cooler can make 20+ degree oil temp differences. But I have a brake duct line and no duct to the oil cooler and haven't had cooling issues, so take that for what it's worth.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I've read around the forums (not tested myself) that removing/adding the duct from the front fascia to the oil cooler can make 20+ degree oil temp differences. But I have a brake duct line and no duct to the oil cooler and haven't had cooling issues, so take that for what it's worth.
as mentioned above: i've thought about putting mine in front of the radiator.
I have the oem duct with a brake duct plumbed through it and hit 250 in 80+ ambient. Without duct I was touching 240 in mid 50's ambient. The duct absolutely makes a difference, but the oem piece isn't that efficient to begin with and once you ding up some fins like I have the temps go up quickly.
Yep ducting always helps esp if you don't have a fan to assist.
But to the Trophy question - remember that's a 500k budget and dry sumping so the oil is never "on" the heat source very long - very optimal and perhaps required even at those G's. Here you're on shoestring budgets and cooling the 100k+ rpm turbo at the same time. So while yes I could build out a dry sump with a fluidyne heat exchanger or dual pass/liquid - getting that extra 20-30 deg doesn't net me a safer engine nor faster lap times at that heat range. Testing of the oil also contributes to the data showing about 4 track days (2 weekends) before changing oil is req'd.
But to the Trophy question - remember that's a 500k budget and dry sumping so the oil is never "on" the heat source very long - very optimal and perhaps required even at those G's. Here you're on shoestring budgets and cooling the 100k+ rpm turbo at the same time. So while yes I could build out a dry sump with a fluidyne heat exchanger or dual pass/liquid - getting that extra 20-30 deg doesn't net me a safer engine nor faster lap times at that heat range. Testing of the oil also contributes to the data showing about 4 track days (2 weekends) before changing oil is req'd.
coincidentally, my UOA just came back today. This is a UOA of 200 solid track miles over 8 sessions, every session saw over 240 degrees for extended time. I back off around 245 for a lap or two to cool it down below 240 then get going again. Amsoil 10w40 high zinc.
august 2015 evo UOA by Nathan Bookbinder, on Flickr
august 2015 evo UOA by Nathan Bookbinder, on Flickr
I have the oem duct with a brake duct plumbed through it and hit 250 in 80+ ambient. Without duct I was touching 240 in mid 50's ambient. The duct absolutely makes a difference, but the oem piece isn't that efficient to begin with and once you ding up some fins like I have the temps go up quickly.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124068...7644545336915/
Going that route as well by next track season. Anyone else tried that to see if that vent helps any?