Brake Fluid - Red Line RL-600
You're gonna be waiting awhile. I spoke with him February and he said 4 weeks...lol. I think Razorlab placed an order back in September 2015 and finally cancelled it just a month or two ago after never receiving product.
Just arrived today..I guess it does really exist. Lol
I'll probably keep the endless in my car till the end of the season then swap the RacingBrake stainless pistons in during this winter and put in the rt700 at the same time.
This is where I ordered from.
http://www.ogracing.com/torque-rt700-racing-brake-fluid
I'll probably keep the endless in my car till the end of the season then swap the RacingBrake stainless pistons in during this winter and put in the rt700 at the same time.
This is where I ordered from.
http://www.ogracing.com/torque-rt700-racing-brake-fluid
.
had some brake pedal fade on sunday at autobahn south - destroyed one of my pads & replaced with hawks, and when I went out the next morning the pedal was feeling a little mushy.
flushed the amsoil dot4 and added redline's brake fluid - even mushier. the pedal was definitely a lot firmer than this before and I lost some braking ability. I had to have some help me on the track flush by pumping the brakes, and the instructor mentioned this is possibly due to the guy pumping the brakes all the way down (I asked him not to, but not sure what exactly he did) - and that I may need a new master cylinder. pedals going deeper and softer than before. thoughts?
flushed the amsoil dot4 and added redline's brake fluid - even mushier. the pedal was definitely a lot firmer than this before and I lost some braking ability. I had to have some help me on the track flush by pumping the brakes, and the instructor mentioned this is possibly due to the guy pumping the brakes all the way down (I asked him not to, but not sure what exactly he did) - and that I may need a new master cylinder. pedals going deeper and softer than before. thoughts?
shouldn't have. found this post from way long ago which describes what I was talking about.
hopefully it's not the case, and this time will get the power bleeder cap on right and give it another shot.
hopefully it's not the case, and this time will get the power bleeder cap on right and give it another shot.
I bleed manually, but would use a power bleeder if I had one. Something to think about, but isn't a problem on well maintained cars is this. Over the lifetime of the master cylinder, it works within a given range of travel, I'm talking about the movement of the piston and seal assembly in the bore. Over time and with a collection of moisture and contamination, the end of the bore is probably a bit rusty, at least not smooth, and has goo (technical term) in there too. Now it's time to flush the system and the pedal is repeatedly pushed down to the floor. Pushed through a possibly pitted or rusty master cylinder bore. In my opinion this could reduce the life of the seals, requiring replacement of the cylinder sooner rather than later.
Of course, it's not going to last long anyway if in the shape I described above. Plus on a car like these with much better brakes than a civic, the brake systems are treated better by their owners anyway. Just something to think about.
But, if using a power bleeder, the pedal would never hit the floor, the master cylinder seals would never meet any pitted cylinder walls or goo that might be in the bottom travel of the master cylinder.
Of course, it's not going to last long anyway if in the shape I described above. Plus on a car like these with much better brakes than a civic, the brake systems are treated better by their owners anyway. Just something to think about.
But, if using a power bleeder, the pedal would never hit the floor, the master cylinder seals would never meet any pitted cylinder walls or goo that might be in the bottom travel of the master cylinder.
I've never had that be an issue before, ever. Was the pedal good right after bleeding the system? If it was, your fluid just can't handle what you're doing. Need to go with something better.