10w40 vs 20w50 for track use
Jun 8, 2016, 11:24 AM
#31
this is an extremely good thread posted on BITOG regarding this issue:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/2206204/1
the thing that stands out to me is that the oiling system is the issue more than the oil itself. thicker oil will create more pressure, which is good for the poor oiling system. I'm countering those myself with a kiggly HLA and a baffled oil pan and possibly a crank scraper as well.
one post also notes that Red Line's 5w30 flows more like a 40wt oil, something to consider
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/2206204/1
the thing that stands out to me is that the oiling system is the issue more than the oil itself. thicker oil will create more pressure, which is good for the poor oiling system. I'm countering those myself with a kiggly HLA and a baffled oil pan and possibly a crank scraper as well.
one post also notes that Red Line's 5w30 flows more like a 40wt oil, something to consider
Kiggly
Scraper
Baffled/trap door oil pan
50w oil
😀
Jun 8, 2016, 03:21 PM
#33
For sure. I'm pretty sure you can link most 4G63 failures to oiling issues if they didn't break a rod or piston.
I had to pull the oil filter housing twice to port it enough even running the soft spring to get my oil pressures under control after balance shaft delete so I was just pumping extra fluid. Plus I ported oil returns trying to help that flow back to pan.
Wish there was an Evo easy button for oil supply issues..
I had to pull the oil filter housing twice to port it enough even running the soft spring to get my oil pressures under control after balance shaft delete so I was just pumping extra fluid. Plus I ported oil returns trying to help that flow back to pan.
Wish there was an Evo easy button for oil supply issues..
Jun 13, 2016, 08:47 AM
#37
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ive been tracking on amsoil 10w40 high zinc for almost 5 years, with only oiling modification being a kiggly. I consistently do oil analysis after every 2-3 track weekends (i change oil before each weekend) and i have had zero issues show up. One sample last summer had a tiny little bump in lead levels, although it was still like half of the normal average listed, and it subsided to normal at the next sample. I just moved up to a set of rc-1's so i will see if anything changes with the increased grip, but needless to say ive been pretty happy with my oil (4 years, 25 track days, 75k on stock motor/turbo).
i did have some small issues with oil light flicker when coming off track on warmer days, and the car would almost stall. my initial solution was to just keep my foot in it a little, but ive since just bumped the idle in the map to about 1100 i believe, and it has never happened since.
i did have some small issues with oil light flicker when coming off track on warmer days, and the car would almost stall. my initial solution was to just keep my foot in it a little, but ive since just bumped the idle in the map to about 1100 i believe, and it has never happened since.
Jun 13, 2016, 11:57 AM
#39
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Jun 13, 2016, 12:47 PM
#41
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yup that one.
i like it, because over all oil samples ive sent in my zinc and phos have never been below 1100 compared to the rotella that was being used in the car when i bought it which struggled to hit 700.
had slight fuel dilution last sample due to a only getting about e75 instead of e82 i normally get, and still all numbers were nice and high.
i like it, because over all oil samples ive sent in my zinc and phos have never been below 1100 compared to the rotella that was being used in the car when i bought it which struggled to hit 700.
had slight fuel dilution last sample due to a only getting about e75 instead of e82 i normally get, and still all numbers were nice and high.
Jun 14, 2016, 08:16 PM
#42
I'm running VR1 20W50 with E85 in my built engine. Lately I've been putting mostly highway miles on the car. In fact my last oil change had next to no WOT pulls on it. I'm not sure what the deal is but this oil turns dark brown significantly faster than the mobile 1 that I used to run. I'm about ready to switch back to a M1 for summer street duty because I don't like seeing burnt maple syrup on my dipstick unless its not the one in my car!
Jun 14, 2016, 11:23 PM
#43
I'm running VR1 20W50 with E85 in my built engine. Lately I've been putting mostly highway miles on the car. In fact my last oil change had next to no WOT pulls on it. I'm not sure what the deal is but this oil turns dark brown significantly faster than the mobile 1 that I used to run. I'm about ready to switch back to a M1 for summer street duty because I don't like seeing burnt maple syrup on my dipstick unless its not the one in my car!
Jun 15, 2016, 05:50 AM
#44
I'm running VR1 20W50 with E85 in my built engine. Lately I've been putting mostly highway miles on the car. In fact my last oil change had next to no WOT pulls on it. I'm not sure what the deal is but this oil turns dark brown significantly faster than the mobile 1 that I used to run. I'm about ready to switch back to a M1 for summer street duty because I don't like seeing burnt maple syrup on my dipstick unless its not the one in my car!
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...guide-2015.pdf
Jun 15, 2016, 06:35 AM
#45
Maybe switch to M1 Racing 0W-50 or the 0W-30 ?
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...guide-2015.pdf
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...guide-2015.pdf