Yeah, It can becomes a mess. The real question is can the 8/9 ABS/ACD ecu use the Evo X sensor and magnetic encoder. If it can, then it should work.

 

Have you tested each sensor to see what their output looks like on an oscilloscope? That's the only way you'll know short of testing them on the car. I would think it will need to be an identical signal.

 

I do not have an oscilloscope. I did however test resistances and the Evo 8/9 does have resistances and Evo 10 does not. This is why I feel it would not work. If I were to test this on the car, I would need to press out the hub from the wheel bearing and swap it into the 10 hub. I don't want to risk damaging a perfectly good wheel bearing.

 

It wont work, the CT9a sensor does have specified resistance range for the sensor in the FSM. I don't recall what it is off the top of my head, but it's in there.

 

If the X sensor is zero resistance then it wont matter what signal it puts out. ECU will, I think, just throw an error code for bad sensor and disable.

 

I'm not sure if anyone is still interested in doing this swap, but I'm continuing to make progress on this. I'm retrofitting the 8/9 abs sensor to the X knuckles. The only way this seems to be practically achieved is like this:





I realize I cut into some structural metal, but I plan on putting in a piece of steel that will slot in on top of abs sensor's tab to spread load. I got these for cheap so if it doesn't work out it won't be a big loss to me. I highly doubt they will actually fail catastrophically before I start noticing cracks.

 

Oh man, that is way sketchy as-is. If you are going to do something like this, rotate the sensor 180deg to face the other way. Cutting out that loop of material is also risky. I appreciate the bold approach but be weary of just cutting out structural material. You're losing more than just ultimate strength.

 

That was my initial plan. But the wire that runs out the back interferes with the same part of the knuckle. I looked at mounting it in other locations but that only looked even more sketchy. I'm counting more on the cast iron being overbuilt from OEM to be ok with this. I also think the insert I'm planning on making will do quite a bit in restoring strength. But other than deleting ABS, or retrofitting the evo X abs system somehow, this is the only way I can think of doing it.

 

the question of "Why" still stands..

 

The point is to take advantage of the 20mm of roll center correction, keep abs/acd functionality, and not spend mega dollars on a custom billet cnc piece for which you'll just have to trust the person that made it knows what they are doing with FEA analysis and limited real world testing compared to OEM.

 

The EvoX is only about 12mm of correction over evo 8/9

 

IMHO it is better to use an extension pin welded to the OE upright in combination with a custom lower arm... that way you get roll centre correction along with the castor correction (which is more important IMHO). With minimal work you can fix bump steer too.. This is solution that has been done before.. Actually Ralliart uses similar solution (not with a welded pin but a pin just clamped as the OE one) with a custom arm and relocated topm mount to achieve more castor....

 

I'm also interested in a budget and cheap to repair Evo X geometry upgrade for the Evo 9. I have access to oscilloscopes, would be happy to test if someone provides parts.