kyoo

iTrader: (29)

hm... I'm not sure. I think it may fall under the rule of using different parts for aftermarket shocks no?

Prime12

While I have no idea as to the legality of this, I wanted to point out that there are two rubber bushings per rear shock and Ralliart does sell stiffer versions of these bushings intended for Group N competition.

Part numbers are RA554369K1 and RA554370K1. You will need 1 each per shock.

Oh and you will be paying through your nose; look up the prices yourselves if you really want to know!

MrAWD

Here is that part from the rule book referring to this:

"13.5.B. The mounting hardware shall be of the original type. The use of any shock absorber bushing material, including metal, is permitted. Pressed or bonded bushings may be removed from standard parts to facilitate the use of alternate bushings which fit in the original location without alterations to the part. This does not permit the use of an offset shock bushing. A shock absorber bushing may be implemented as a spherical bearing. The bushing attaching the end of a strut to the body or frame on a strut type suspension is a suspension bushing, not a shock bushing. For cars with a bayonet/shaft-type upper shock mount, this allowance permits the removal of the shock bushing from the upper mounting plate (e.g., drilling, cutting, burning out the bushing) and replacing it with another bushing. This also includes shock bushings located in control arms, etc. This does not allow other modifications to the plate itself or use of an alternate plate."

Since we have bayonet/shaft type rear shock, it says that we can take that one out (by any means necessary, as it looks like) and replace it with anything else we wish. We could just go with the aluminum spacer there, but that would restrict small movement that top of the shock still has when suspension moves up/down. So, the best option would be a spherical bearing that would have no give, but allow shaft the change the angle, without putting side load on it.

Other option is to use harder rubber (like 75 poly for example) which is probable the best bang for the buck. Or go full delrin instead, but I am afraid that might create more side load that I like.

laloosh

Maybe I am missing the point, but what is this going to accomplish? Seems like a lot of work for nothing.

MrAWD

Not quite!

Major difference between high quality shocks vs. the rest is in their ability to control smallest movements of the suspension. If you have a soft bushing in between the body and the shaft of the shock, good part of those small oscillations will happen inside the bushing itself and only some of it will actually make it to the shock to be controlled by it. Not a good way to go!!

Somewhat similar problem is with tires as well,which also swallow some of the vibrations that never made it to the shocks.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

well I guess that's settled. I doubt it'll honestly make much real world difference though.

laloosh

I think you are chasing your tail with this, but good luck

MrAWD

Wouldn't be first!!

Prime12

So here's your 59.186 vs her 59.305. That Cayman S sure has high mid corner speed.... even watching the video, I'm not quite sure where you made up time.

MrAWD

Event #3

Another atypical course at Devens with not as much slalom as we usually go by and this time we had lots of sweeper which was interesting for sure! But, Cayman is doing those way better than EVOs, so I hope we are not having all sweepers course for the Tour! Got beat by Rachel again and with decent margin - 0.710 sec to be exact! Had a bit quicker time, but coned it. Even with that time, difference would be 0.600 sec, so it was hard to beat her this weekend!

Had a fast guy in RS and we were pretty close. Hope he will be back again, since it is much easier to go against Ford instead of Porsche!

Here are results: Final and PAX

And this is my last run with a cone:
Finally got my front struts back in and had some problems with the camber. Passenger side showed 2.0, but drivers stopped at 1.3 for some reason. Both struts looked identical and shouldn't cause such a difference. OEM that I run so far this year looked fine so that takes out of something bent from the equation. What I am hoping to be the reason is that top camber bolt wasn't as tight as it should be so strut moved a bit after installation. I have loosen both bolts and pushed everything to the right position, but haven't had a chance to align the car before the race. I should know in the next few days. Slots on MCS struts are a bit longer from the OEM, so it is possible for this to be the case. This time I put all my might into those two bolts and than put a mark at the top to know is anything moved. Should know soon if this is the case.

Car did handle OK and didn't do anything out of ordinary. Tires are now with over 110 runs, so I am sure that is not helping. Another thing is that last event was 4 weeks ago and I have forgotten what I have done last time I was out there. That was presented with huge gap between first and last run. Also, time was getting better on each run, so with few more I would get closer to the Cayman - well at least I would like to hope that would be the case.

Next event will be Tour and since that is 5 weeks away, I am not very optimistic about my ability do it well unless I find another event to go week or two before that. Still, looking forward to see some of you next month!

PS. I did try to adjust my video and data with Solo Storm and this one has 1000 ms delay added in. It looks better than previous videos I have posted, but there is still discrepancy between the speed and Gs. Let me know if I need to move it more back!

WENyongzhe

Why are you guys worried about brake dust? You just need to wash the car quite often.

MrAWD

Anything you guys can think for the reason to have camber at 2.0 on one side and 1.3 on the other? Assuming there are no bent parts in there since previous set was right camber wise and these struts are pretty much identical! Anything I could screw up putting it together? Top hat orientation?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

do you have more camber on the passenger's side? us cars are typically set up that way. your camber bolt could have also grinded down, so perhaps a new one could work better?

MrAWD

Yes, passenger side has more camber with new struts. But, outgoing set of OEM bilisteins had both sides at 2 degrees and nothing has changes since then. Only change is that I had to install springs and perches over the new struts. New struts look identical and they were measured to be that way as well. So, something in putting springs and perches together that might be causing this is what I am looking for.

For example, OEM top perch has a mark on one of the studs (or area near one) that should be for some orientation purpose, but couldn't find anything in the manual as were that mark should be pointing. It looks like they are all the same radius from the center, so I stopped bothering. Is it possible that there is a certain way to do this and it is causing this issue?

There is also an arrow on the lower part of the top perch that is pointing toward to car and I should have that one done the right way!

Anything else?

MrAWD

Still have to fix this low camber numbers before the Tour starts in few days, but just to not make it too easy with preparations, I had to drop my car off to the dealership last night! ACD pump is now making so much noise that it feels like it is going to pop out. And now it is doing it while both accelerating in the straight line and also braking when turning. Interesting this is that I can create this when accelerating and turning or braking in the straight line. I should have more info today about what is going on...