Curb weight reduction
Mar 9, 2017, 01:50 PM
#114
Newbie
Less weight means better cornering, acceleration, and braking. Not to mention adding the WiseFab wide stance suspension/steering to make it handle even better.
And less weight takes less horsepower to out perform the competition in a heavier car.
And ours it going to be more a track car vs street so what we are doing may not be what you want to do to yours.
Mar 15, 2017, 05:00 PM
#115
Step 1. Buy my car
Step 2. Enjoy a ~2600 pound 500HP EVO.
Oh, there is a middle step in there where you'll have to finish the wiring that I still haven't finished after like half a decade.
LOL
As for random things I've done to reduce weight (it has become a drag car at this point
):
Motor mounts -> ~18 lbs lighter
Dash bar/steering column -> ~20 lbs lighter
Intercooler -> 13lbs total weight with piping (rated to 500+ HP)
Fuel Cell -> ~30lbs lighter + 60lbs less fuel weight (when full)
Side exit exhaust -> ~3 lbs total weight
Tial turbine housing/tubular manifold -> ~18lbs total weight
Electric water pump and power steering pump
Manual belt tensioner (only alternator is crank driven)
As for moving the radiator to the rear, it brings with it a lot of other issues. For one, you are now creating two different high spots in the system. This requires being smart with how you implement the system, basically forcing you to adopt a "constant bleed" type setup, which is better anyway.
Step 2. Enjoy a ~2600 pound 500HP EVO.
Oh, there is a middle step in there where you'll have to finish the wiring that I still haven't finished after like half a decade.
LOL
As for random things I've done to reduce weight (it has become a drag car at this point
):Motor mounts -> ~18 lbs lighter
Dash bar/steering column -> ~20 lbs lighter
Intercooler -> 13lbs total weight with piping (rated to 500+ HP)
Fuel Cell -> ~30lbs lighter + 60lbs less fuel weight (when full)
Side exit exhaust -> ~3 lbs total weight
Tial turbine housing/tubular manifold -> ~18lbs total weight
Electric water pump and power steering pump
Manual belt tensioner (only alternator is crank driven)
As for moving the radiator to the rear, it brings with it a lot of other issues. For one, you are now creating two different high spots in the system. This requires being smart with how you implement the system, basically forcing you to adopt a "constant bleed" type setup, which is better anyway.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Mar 16, 2017 at 11:19 AM.
Mar 19, 2017, 07:10 PM
#116
Newbie
More weight gone. Back and to keep some of you happy, front too. 
Wise Fab wide stance/lowering powder coated aluminum spindles vs stock boat anchor cast versions. You also loose the stock backing plates, parking brakes, and related hardware.
All stock control arms, and tie rods will go away too, replaced with more Wise Fab, with spherical bearings instead of bushings.
Less weight, wider stance, sitting lower, much wider race tires, going to corner like it's glued to the track.
Now have to worry and try and figure out how we are going to get it on the trailer.
Wise Fab wide stance/lowering powder coated aluminum spindles vs stock boat anchor cast versions. You also loose the stock backing plates, parking brakes, and related hardware.
All stock control arms, and tie rods will go away too, replaced with more Wise Fab, with spherical bearings instead of bushings.
Less weight, wider stance, sitting lower, much wider race tires, going to corner like it's glued to the track.
Now have to worry and try and figure out how we are going to get it on the trailer.
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Meathooker (Mar 19, 2017)
Mar 20, 2017, 07:00 AM
#120
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There seems to be multiple hub solutions all of a sudden. Wise fab and brypar and I think one other...might need to be my next move since I already have x control arms on the car.