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Eh there's not a lot of room ride height wise to go sifting around down there to thread something that heavy in that far, especially if you're doing it in the rain or direct sun and doing it by feel. I used to use 3" race ramp trailer assists to get the *** high enough for me to slide under there and loop the axle straps around the sub. But that became a pita too. God you would just cook wrestling with it. This is why I'm thinking outside the box here because it's a custom problem not a lot of you run into with open trailers. Really needs to stay put, be light and strong as possible but it doesn't need to be a "tow hook" that takes the whole weight of the car. It's just to strap down to but doesn't bend with said pressure.
In either case I reach up, bend them down, throw the hook in and done. If we wanted it to fold completely up out of the way without hitting the diffuser, it needs to be 3.25 inches or smaller in height top to bottom - The distance from the center of the SF bolt to the bolt head that holds the back of the Voltex splitter up. In this case if it came down 1 inch from the subframe surface, and had a 3.25" tall bracket, that'd work nicely. If not it can still work it just folds up against the already angled splitter material. The "tension" would allow it to swivel much like a tow hook. The more you torque the bolt holding the loop it will say perm in place, but if you loosen it just enough it'll move with force but not with wind or vibration.
I'm not sure if it folded out of the way that it would stay out of the way once you're on track, but I did come up with this. Uses a basic hitch pin to hold the large swinging hook to the subframe. Once you have the car unloaded from the trailer just pull the pin and you're on your way without anything hanging low.
I'm not sure if it folded out of the way that it would stay out of the way once you're on track, but I did come up with this. Uses a basic hitch pin to hold the large swinging hook to the subframe. Once you have the car unloaded from the trailer just pull the pin and you're on your way without anything hanging low.
Close. But same problem, you cannot reach under there to mess with that when the car is on the ground. Basically your head does not fit between the ground and the BACK of the splitter and those would take two hands. End of the day, all sweaty and tired, oh crap I put the jacks away already, nah too old for that nonsense haha.
Something like these at pitstopusa:
Or pref this:
The 1 bolt tightens down on the bracket sleeve so the hook attachment squeezes and stays in place just like any other tow hook would. Using nylock would prevent it from loosening up on track and swinging down. it's just long enough I can reach, pull down, and with one hand I can snap the strap in. Likely not going to be all flat steel. From the center of the long bolt to the end of the bracket 3.25-
Eventually, anything that swivels is going to come loose at the wrong time. Murphy's law lol
Something notched with a spring would be cool but complicated.
Why would getting under the car to pin a hook on be different than getting under to unfold?
One arm under vs two?
Some of us have short arms anyway.
To be fair, Im pretty sure Marshal and fam spend more time in a trailer than anyone here
I'm just reposting what was mentioned above as the reason to not use them. It's possible I misunderstood the comment. I read this site from my phone a lot and often miss a thing or three.
@Balrok do you have any pics a bit more zoomed out showing your diffuser? If it's low enough to the point you can only get one arm under the car then I'm not sure how straps are going to tighten without hitting the diffuser.
This is why I chopped my bumper in half and don't run a diffuser, I can crawl under the rear of my car and work with it on the ground
<---has evo in enclosed trailer using t-hook holes to tie it down.
It is definitely accessible. it's like a 1 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
Originally Posted by kaj
I'm just reposting what was mentioned above as the reason to not use them. It's possible I misunderstood the comment. I read this site from my phone a lot and often miss a thing or three.
I was trying to be helpful. From now on I'll let the OP speak for themselves
...., and the rear t-hook anchor points on the chassis are simply nu-reachable once in said trailer.
I suppose I should write a prologue first haha. FRONT T-hooks, sure. But rear's are NOT accessible in my case and in a lot of others case who don't post here. Respectfully, If I can't get to the rear subframe with anything but fingers, then one can't get to the rear T hooks a foot in front of that lol. Originally I got 15' straps for that reason until I realized it isn't feasible and takes even longer. Idaho's trailer however is long enough that the wheel arches for the trailer tires aren't in the way I assume. Again in my case, Add that there's a fold up couch on one side that goes past each wheel and tires/tables on another. So, it's not a "change tactic" approach to make my loading easier because it is what it is, believe me. My CURRENT solution involves running over 3" ramps and those raise the rear tires enough to squeeze in there. However it still creates the issue of the exhaust generally in the way of a Cross connection when looping UP to the subframe, which is how it should be done. And lining those ramps up each time is getting old.
Getting back - It's a fairly simple design that's also removable if needed and I can use many methods to secure it. Bracket, bolt through 3.25"x X tow-like hook. The diffuser is 2" down, so at 3.25 exactly it would clear and just clear the back of the diffuser to fold above it which is pretty sweet.
There's a whole market of subframe tow attachments for all these new cars guys, GT4's, 2020 Vettes, Mustangs, 911's, you name it - all way too low and covered to use anything but the wheel...except when there's thousands of dollars in carbon in the way of said wheel. Once you get the idea down it's just a matter of measuring the next one.
I guess if you have a couch on the wall that could be difficult. I just slide up the side of the car, put my knee on the trailer fenders and reach under and hook up the rear straps. Do you have to winch the car in or can you get out of the door/window?
If i didn't have side access I'd hook the straps up before the car goes in and put the excess in the trunk to keep them from being run over while it goes in.
Tried that too, they still fall out, twist or off the car esp when you're by yourself for some reason lol. Front's an issue too esp on that couch side. Frustrating to the point WHERE we end up here making proper solutions. Would you not rather do it all from one spot instead of crawling all around the car?
Jan 13, 2022, 05:17 PM
