xBoostx

BTW, I dropped 3.7 sec from my last time at this track with the following changes:

RE71R 275 from 255 (i measured only about a .5" increase in diameter)
Spring rate increase in the front
Tire pressure increase on all 4 corners

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

What tire pressure did you increase to?

Construct

iTrader: (4)

Mid-20s on a heavy car like the Evo? Even with 265s, anything under 30psi up front just doesn't feel like it's working. I could see lower pressures on a lighter car with similarly large tires, but I can't imagine using pressures that low up front on the Evo.

xBoostx

38-39 front
40 rear

did 3-4 hots laps no fade.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you're happy with the new setup and that we were able to help you get there.

MrAWD

I don't have suspension numbers as you because I have to keep it stock, but my car went faster when I dropped the pressure from 38-39 down to 34 in the front. At the same time rears went from 36 down to 28. I do get blue markings at the edges and edges get beat big time, but the car is faster! And, with such low pressure I run in the rear, they get much higher temperature buildup compare to higher pressures.
Disclaimer: this is autoX only of course!

xBoostx

Driver preference has some to do with it. The loads and speeds that i now carry, would make it stupid to run low pressures. I was worrying about the tire getting messed up from how much roll i felt on the side wall before coming to temp.

That blueing is really bad. You are cooking the compounds that make the tire what it is. There is a sweet spot for tire and chassis combination. From experience untill you dont turn the sidewall blue, you havent headed the right direction. Since you AX its prob more to do with tire temps. you are making up the traction from the heat a tire should have by the pressure being low at the cost of the tires life cycle.

xBoostx

Yea man, when it all works, its a good feeling! Now if i can just get these turbo to manifold nuts from backing out im good! LOL

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Get a new OEM gasket, and all new OEM hardware, also get x8 of the OEM concave washers. Use 2 washers on each bolt/stud. Make sure the washers face each other like so: (). Torque to 41ftlbs. I've had good luck with this.

nollij

iTrader: (21)

I have had good luck with nord-lock washers. I use them on anything that undergoes heat cycles or anywhere I find a bolt loose.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

The nord-lock washers were the only thing that kept my old DSMs turbo bolts in place. After like 5 years of dealing with them backing out including new cone washers, they never slipped again after the nord-lock my buddy installed.

xBoostx

Unfortunately with the MAP cast manifold for the Evo X theres only space to do that on 2 studs. 1 of my studs is a head stud with nuts top and bottom. They still loosen up. My last occasion i had the nut stay on the stud and the stud back ALL the way out LOL.

I was looking at those. Thats what im buying for the next solution. Glad to know its the way to go!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

How is there not enough room to run double washers?
The stud coming out with the nut still on it just means it came loose. The studs aren't an interference fit into the turbine housing. When the threads are clean, you can run them in and out by hand.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

What'd be the size/part# for the mani nord washers if you've already done em?

xBoostx

Misread, i was thinking double nuts. I have it that way on one stud. Still came loose. On the oem manifold they all come double washer