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Front sway bars were mentioned and not too much info is coming up with the search results. If I were to stay with my current Rear Sway bar and did the bigger one up front does anyone have experience on what that would do? Would it cause the Evo to plow in corners? I do recall reading in threads that many stick with a Rear Sway Bar upgrade and rarely have I seen others do the front sway bar. From the others who posted above I was shocked to see their inputs.
i think the guy who mentioned fsb was being pretty tongue in cheek about, how if the only thing you're concerned about keeping a rear wheel on the ground, this is what you could do.
that said, i've got a tanabe hollow, lot of people run WL FSBs. I think you have to match it to the RSB but it will help with roll and maintaining camber curve for our mcstrut cars. that said you'll have to bump up the rear bar stiffness to keep the car handling, which will create more dog leg
i think the guy who mentioned fsb was being pretty tongue in cheek about, how if the only thing you're concerned about keeping a rear wheel on the ground, this is what you could do.
that said, i've got a tanabe hollow, lot of people run WL FSBs. I think you have to match it to the RSB but it will help with roll and maintaining camber curve for our mcstrut cars. that said you'll have to bump up the rear bar stiffness to keep the car handling, which will create more dog leg
Glad someone picked up on that
In all seriousness though when I was racing autox I ran a light rear bar and a huge front bar (it's 350% stiffer than stock) with a tre max lock rear end and it rotated very well
IMO a large rear bar is a bandaid.
For what it's worth we ran no rear bar in the hillclimb car last year.
Last edited by Meathooker; May 10, 2017 at 10:22 PM.
To get these cars to handle best with stock suspension geometry, the front fender-tire gap is bigger than the rear. You still have some rake, but not a lot.
Yup. I run 9k/10k springs, Robispec RSB, stock FSB, PSRS. I have to check my notes, but I think I'm at 2.8*F and 1.6*R camber (I haven't touched them in so long, I forget). I have 13mm of rake and my car looks like this:
It's an Evo thing. It won't win any car shows, but That's just how they are when you want them to rotate. I tripod every tight turn, as far as I know.
Mine lifts about 1 inch off the ground on RE-71R and about 4 inches with 285 Hoosiers on the car. I am running a small rear sway and TRE MAX LOCK rear diff with Muellerized Ohlins.
I'm no national champion, but see the results below from last weekend's autocross event. "PRO" indicates drivers who have won at nationals.
Is losing to STR Miata's in an XP evo supposed to be fast? Were you on slicks for this run?
i barely beat a "pro"-driven ES Miata in my STU evo at my last event. made me feel very small, lol!
Not sure about your events, but our local site usually consists of "Miata friendly" courses. They are usually just a couple or few seconds behind me and are the perfect autox car, IMO. No surprise to me to see that type of result.
Yeah, AX courses can definitely be tailored to be small car friendly. We get those here evry now and then where the slalom will have just barely enough cone spacing to get an evo through, but the Miata's and similarly small cars are carrying double the speed in the same slalom.
Yeah, AutoX usually favors the small cars. The particular course had over 20 cones of slalom-ing. But I won't lie, those drivers are really in another class. The guy in the Vette too below me has won nationals and also gets stomped by those guys.
XP is a joke though, my car is an ASP car with no carpet. I don't really care about points of PAX or any of that stuff. A bunch of us just run XP as a "run what you brung" kind of thing.
I'm with you. My car is built to enjoy and achieve PB lap times.
Unfortunately, that means my car is far from maxed out in any given category.
Under AX guidelines, I'm Prepared. My car is so far from what's allowed in Preparared, it's not funny. LOL. At GTA, I'm put into Limited though the Street class runs more aero than I ever will LOL.
I suffer far more at autox events than I do on the road course, though.
I did an event today and got bus-lengthed by a really good driver in a properly-built STU (I think) Evo. 49.200 vs 46.xxx. I haven't driven in some time and my tires were dead, but that doesn't explain a near-two-second gap LOL. He's really fast and that car is super dialed. I don't mind the handicap, though.
There was a Miata about .02sec off my time. Another really good driver in a Well-set-up car.
Autox is crazy like that. But it's part of what makes it fun. I've seen events where the three top the times of the day were BS cars. You just never know!
I just set my car up how I want and let sanctioning bodies put me where they want. It's still fun to drive. "Run what ya brung" sounds accurate LOL
what front sway bar would you guys suggest for a street/ weekend warrior track car FYI I am trying to get the best handling I can and I am not afraid of being a stiff ride
You will get a ton of opinions on that. I run OEM, as do a lot of others. Just as many swear by upgrading. Flip a coin LOL. It depends on the rest of your setup. You may need it or not.
IMO, upgrading the front comes after you have maxed out a lot of other areas. It also requires you to make other changes that you may not want to deal with. Personally, I see no reason for it.
what front sway bar would you guys suggest for a street/ weekend warrior track car FYI I am trying to get the best handling I can and I am not afraid of being a stiff ride
Not needed, in your situation, based on your notes
IMHO, its a recipe between spring rate & sway bar rate. Most of us choose higher coil rates which lessens the need for an uprated FSB.
Chose both & end up accentuating an already understeer prone pig
Can start with the cusco or ciro FSB bracket and see if going min or max makes your car happier. At the end of the day, you should have one of them anyways to adjust balance.
I wanted to share an idea with you guys and see if it makes sense and also find out if anyone has tried this setup. The idea I had was a longer front sring like 8" length and the rear spring length at 7". I also want to add I would keep the 10k F and 12k rear spring rates. Would this help limit the 3 wheeling action of the Evo? I also wanted to add I lowered the ride height on my Evo 1" front and back.
Thoughts?
