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I've got 18x10.5 +30 (20mm spacer in front, 3mm spacer in rear) wheels w/275/35 RC-1 tires. Stock body, fenders rolled, fender spacers in front, rear lca has been clearanced a tad. I feel like my setup is fairly tight, I'm curious to see how you're getting a 295 to fit.
295's only fit with some fender pushing/pulling in the rear. Fronts are actually easy.
I ran my FP Green (older JB MHI 54mm housing) at 28 psi all of last season. seem to hold up pretty well. Not sure why a Red couldn't do it, as long as you aren't overspinning that turbo. We've tried a few of their ball bearing turbos and have not had very good luck.
Please elaborate on the BB turbo. I am running a green BB at the moment.
I ran my FP Green (older JB MHI 54mm housing) at 28 psi all of last season. seem to hold up pretty well. Not sure why a Red couldn't do it, as long as you aren't overspinning that turbo. We've tried a few of their ball bearing turbos and have not had very good luck.
We went through like 3-4 JB Reds over two time attack seasons.
I had JB FP Green on my personal car and it survived five years of track abuse, never failed. I just ended up selling the car.
295 Hoosier fits on my car but the height certainly makes things tough. Once these tires are gone Im going back to the shorter 285 and getting the car lower. Width is easy enough to deal with but height is making it a pain with clearing front when steering and low offsets via spacers.
It took my billet control arms to push the wheel forward and increase caster so I could run less camber and less spacer to make it work and not rub the back constantly.
I know you had mentioned this before and I have been meaning to follow up with you on it. Im considering picking up some A7 takeoffs to transition over to Hoosierland and it seems the 295's are far more prevalent than the 285's.
I know you've been after getting your car lower with all your new trick parts but Im wondering if you think I'll be fine at my current ride height fitting the taller 295's in your opinion? This is how it sits with a 285/30. I dont think ym car is very low so while it seems the 285's are the ticket considering they arent any narrower than the 295's if Im not after changing ride height than perhaps the extra height and availability will be a win win for me?
I think you have plenty of clearance up front though rear may be a little low. But looking at your fenders and how much they're pulled, I dont think it will take much more to clear everything.
My car is certainly lower than yours on the 295s and before my control arms I would only rub on the back of the front fender liner. Depending on your camber, you can pull out offset with those NT03s up front which will help with that rub.
As far as more cutting, I just had to trim the sheet metal up to the rear bumper bolt and I relocated the front bumper bolt (really easy).
Rubbing on fender liners are a self correcting thing
My rear quarters have a decent pull to them. And by decent I mean that theyre pulled decently far; its just that the moron who did it (me) sucks at body work lol! but yeah the rear bumper bolt is relocated and that whole area has been shaved. The rear seems to have decent clearance at the moment so I was more concerned about the front in terms of being able to go lock to lock.
Camber is set at -3.5 in the front caster around 6.1 currently from CDR plates and the offset PSRS. The wheels is actually centered quite well like that. I have a 17mm spacer up front so there is currently decent inward clearance and as you can see by the terrible body lines the front fender is spaced out. Which bolt in the front did you relocate? That front fender is actually trash I attempted and failed to roll it so it startled to buckle. This was after I tried and failed on the other side and didn't learn my lesson so now its got the Evodave mod.
WiseFab rear made fitting the 295's easier. Wisefab allows you to adjust the rear track width and can move the hub about 1.5 inches in or out. Going in makes room but you need to cut a bit of frame/inner fender wall.
having -3 camber in rear helps tuck things a little better, might be a bit too much camber for some, all depends on setup.
can kind of see it here, but rear fenders have been pulled and like others, I also had to cut the inside layer of metal. unless you are a really good body guy, it probably wont look pretty.
^That is one mean looking track weapon you got there! I saw pics of the cutting you did inward and I gotta say that's not something Im willing to put my car through at this point in time. My rear fenders look like yours as well so I guess I dont feel as bad, lol!
Your front fender is spaced way the f out there. Massive spacers for the 2 bolts on the bottom or was there a lot more involved in that?
^That is one mean looking track weapon you got there! I saw pics of the cutting you did inward and I gotta say that's not something Im willing to put my car through at this point in time. My rear fenders look like yours as well so I guess I dont feel as bad, lol!
Your front fender is spaced way the f out there. Massive spacers for the 2 bolts on the bottom or was there a lot more involved in that?
I bent the part of the fender that goes behind the side skirt up. doesn't look pretty but from a distance you cant tell.
So back on track I think I might give the 295's a shot due to takeoff availability. My car is on a BBK Full and I have no issues powersliding my 285 Zii's as in unless the car is almost perfectly straight on corner exit if I punch the gas it'll go sideways with ease.
Im on the bandwagon that I think the more rubber you can stuff under there the faster you can go. Maybe this doesnt apply as much to track stuff vs auto-x but especially if you have the power being able to put it down in crucial.
Sorry for the delay in OP responding. Post Heartland Park on new turbo, I was reminded why "never take a great working car and change it up." The gremlins of making a turbo swap have all surfaced. Tune, Turbo downpipe fitment, wires you didn't mean to change...and it took an army before - during - and still after the track to get all working. I was still able to be the fastest car with FTD by 5 seconds, but it wasn't without constant stress.
That said, the FP Red is clearly slower to hit boost vs my custom EF3. I really notice it at the apex and have to be mindful to keep a higher RPM. Relearn the cars torque and timing basically. I improved .5 seconds over my last FTD time. Makes my $7k project very expensive. Oh well. Verdict still out. Heading to COTA next month. That should be fun.
And I still lose 1qrt of oil to catch can after 20minute session.
Will explore running my current 295/35 on the 10.5" rim. Not sure if my 38 offset will work.
Jul 25, 2017, 08:46 AM
