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Has technology made it possible to race 500HP EVO Safely?

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Old Nov 29, 2017, 10:25 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by EVOizmm
PA is a 2.2 FYI. they are using a 4g64 block but destroked.

Also I'd really not recommend calling shops and wasting their time asking for info unless you plan to go with them. That will burn some bridges really fast.

just do a 2.2 with a billet crank and 4g63 block. There is no "best" of anything, there is always some compromise. the 2.2 seems to be a good compromise of it all.
2.2 makes sense. You surprised me about calling shops. I have had great interaction and made good contacts asking shops what they recommend for my needs which has helped me better understand details within the build. I don't think it's wasting either sides time in this research phase. First thing I say is I am naieve and trying to better understand engine builds. As for this forum, I value your input and hope I haven't offended you or anyone with my questions. This forum is my best resource and I am a lot more knowledgeable thanks to all of you.

getsideways: I have run at 500whp/500tq @26-28psi for 3 years or 6000 miles. That EF3 was magic I think.

Will be pulling head off soon and sending off for refresh......
Old Nov 29, 2017, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Don't run Manley Ibeams, they are heavy. Go with something light, Carillo, Oliver, etc. Your rods really shouldn't weigh more than 600 grams. For the piston, make sure it is an FSR/strut style piston (JE FSR, Wiseco HD), not a full round. Also, make sure the pins are least .220 wall. With CP, you have to get the upgraded pins IIRC.
A non strut piston is perfectly fine for 600whp. If he was looking for 1000whp I'd say spend the extra money on a reinforced piston with thick gudgeons. And a heavier rod will still be fine to spin 9k, if he's looking for more revs than that he has other things to worry about.

My mindset on building a track focused engine prioritizes cost and ease of replacement over ultimate strength/exotic parts. I don't expect track engines to last more than a couple seasons so minimizing downtime with widely available parts that don't cost a ton and are able to hold the expected power and parameters of the engine are the best option.
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Old Dec 6, 2017, 12:47 PM
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One good source to draw inspiration from is Macau Roadsport Challenge guys
A lot of EVO running there and their race format is 10 laps over street circuit in hot ambient, like 30 C or above hot with frequent safety car interruption
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Old Dec 7, 2017, 06:48 AM
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Interesting thread guys.

We race our evo at low boost 420kw ATW which is 560hp ATW and high boost is 516kw ATW which is 690hp

We do 10 lap races flat out, + 20 min qualifying and practice sessions.

In saying that we are also dry sumped and dogboxed. but mechanically the car is pretty reliable.

Dogbox is definately worth the money. we went with the norris designs kit. it came mostly complete all u need to do is plumb lines from tank and back. and from pump to oil cooler and then to engine. the lines from sump to pump all come as part of the kit. We used hardline for the runs from tank to pump and engine apart from right at the end which saves alot of money. but its still not cheap!

But to answer the OP question you can run an evo reliably at far more than 500hp if you have the supporting mods to go with it. I do know people running 700hp without drysump in time attack here but thats pushing the limits i reckon.
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Old Dec 8, 2017, 04:43 PM
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I so want a dog box. It's seems you can't podium anymore without one.
Old Dec 9, 2017, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bee-raddd
I
Dogbox is definately worth the money. we went with the norris designs kit. it came mostly complete all u need to do is plumb lines from tank and back. and from pump to oil cooler and then to engine. the lines from sump to pump all come as part of the kit. We used hardline for the runs from tank to pump and engine apart from right at the end which saves alot of money. but its still not cheap!
Did you mean Drysump instead of Dogbox? Those are on my wishlist for sure. I couldn't pass up the oppertunity on this last build to help out my fellow EvoM'ers on the wetsump story. I'll be doing the same when I go dry. (insert dirty comment here).
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Old Dec 10, 2017, 06:41 AM
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A Dogbox is nice for a dedicated track car. Could be cheaper in the long haul as there are less wear type parts in a dogbox, plus we all know the stock gears (mostly 4th) don't last long. Also the ability to find a better that stock ear ratio is a big plus too.

There is a new Dry Dump entering the market soon. For sure help increase reliability.
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Old Dec 11, 2017, 03:55 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Did you mean Drysump instead of Dogbox? Those are on my wishlist for sure. I couldn't pass up the oppertunity on this last build to help out my fellow EvoM'ers on the wetsump story. I'll be doing the same when I go dry. (insert dirty comment here).
yes sorry drysump! We tried accusump and an extended baffled sump and neither were a sure bet. We were still seeing oil pressure drops on long right handers with both setups although it wasnt as bad. Getting down to 60 to 65psi at high rpm we quickly canned the idea. I had a kiggly hla which i never got around to installing unfortunately wuda been good to see if that worked.

theres some great dogboxes on the market now. We use a kaps 5 speed and ive driven it on the street loads its fine. Also know a couple other evos in nz with the same box in street cars. We went thru 3 boxes before we bit the bullet n went for the dogbox.

u guys are lucky up in america to have the likes of buscher and teamrip doing gear kits and upgrades to stock boxes. Too expensive to get them shipped here tho
Old Dec 11, 2017, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOizmm
A Dogbox is nice for a dedicated track car. Could be cheaper in the long haul as there are less wear type parts in a dogbox, plus we all know the stock gears (mostly 4th) don't last long. Also the ability to find a better that stock ear ratio is a big plus too.

There is a new Dry Dump entering the market soon. For sure help increase reliability.
What dogbox do you have? How much? I still can't afford one and have seen a couple different ones. Now that you have it, is it as good as you hoped...or better!

Same with drysump. Is there something beside Magnus? There needs to be more on the market to help with cost.
Old Dec 11, 2017, 05:46 AM
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norris designs does a nice dry sump..


dogboxes are nice but difficult on the road if you are not carefull.. basically you need to shift quickly all the time or the dogs wear..

sequential dogboxes are best on track especially if you have shift cut. That saves on box wear and you can upgrade them to pneumatic operation. One of the things I heard from the porsche motorsport guys was that when they went from normal dog sequential to pneumatic operation the shift length did not go down much but the boxes last longer as you get perfect shift everytime..
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Old Dec 11, 2017, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Driv200

Same with drysump. Is there something beside Magnus? There needs to be more on the market to help with cost.
Options for drysump are:

Magnus
Norris Designs
Aviaid
MAP
ARE
AMS (no longer made)
Dailey

I think there's a few others but can't think of them right now. The setup Dailey is coming out with is really nice.
Old Dec 12, 2017, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
Options for drysump are:

Magnus
Norris Designs
Aviaid
MAP
ARE
AMS (no longer made)
Dailey

I think there's a few others but can't think of them right now. The setup Dailey is coming out with is really nice.
Great info! I didn't know about half of these. I'm laughing at myself now that my motor is apart. I start every project with an open checkbook, but then as reality sets in, and I find parts like this (dogbox and drysump), I start trying to save and change focus. Ha!!!! If I just had $30k, I think I could stay on track from start to finish.
Old Dec 12, 2017, 08:22 AM
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I would prioritize a dry sump over a dog box. The synchro box will be pretty OK if properly prepared.
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Old Dec 13, 2017, 03:25 AM
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If ur serious about track work on a mid to high hp evo a drysump is 100% essential. They arent badly priced. The list above covers all of them. Although i found 1 or 2 were no longer available or the sellers were uncontactable.

we went with the norris one which is a nice bit of kit and well priced. The MAP kit is beautiful but very expensive.

We initially had an albins dogbox and then swapped to the KAPs box which we found to be of far better quality. Much better dog system and all micro polished etc.

i believe quaife is also a good option.
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Old Dec 15, 2017, 07:02 AM
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Dry Sump first....I agree. Priced the Magnus. $5000 for their full kit before -AN lines.

Will check into the Norris.

Thanks for the dog box reviews/feedback. Helps me a lot.


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