Abacus

iTrader: (9)

I'd leave the Alum rods for drag racing. I would spend the money on some Carrillo Pro H steel rods. They are going to be about 100 grams lighter a rod then I beams and plenty strong for most. Easier on the bearings and easier to rev up. I would also go dry sump if you are really going to lean on the car. Its a large up front cost but it will save money in the long run on engines.

As far as the crank is concerned. A few hardcore road race guys have broken the stock 88mm crank a few times. Things like wheel hop, heavy multi plate clutches, harmonics,tune up and abuse can break things. People are finding the weak link in the system. Upgrade the clutch, upgrade the trans, upgrade the tcase, huge slicks etc.. Having a quality dampner on a well balanced engine is a good start but other things can cause harmonics and be harder on bearings/parts.

Not to start a war but if Crank A was weaker then crank B, why does a well known tuner build and run countless crank A's? It still can be made stronger but at some point things just can't live under certain conditions.

Things also lead a better life on a smooth running engine at moderate power. Hard for some to grasp but they are getting there.

Sharkbite2000

iTrader: (21)

Back then It wasn't a problem , I wouldn't see why it would be a problem 10 years later

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

What about the Winberg polished Evo cranks ? Pricey but supposedly very strong too.

http://winbergcrankshafts.com/index....tsubishi-4g63/

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

OP: Dumped the Aluminum rods. For more than a few reasons, reusing the Manley I Beam Rods. Putting that savings towards the dry sump budget I guess and saving time not waiting for custom pistons (due to 2.2, 94mm, 156mm rods on 4g64 block).

Knife Edged Billet 4340 crank showed up! I am amazed at the different compared to the forged crank. Hope to get a side by side comparison and weight.

Learning a lot about harmonics in all this. Hadn’t known a lot of the importance before this build. Will put some money towards the right application.

Christian Colon

This is a good question. I’ve seen people **** pound the Evo in all sorts of events, but I always wonder how often they have to rebuild them. I personally am not made of money and would enjoy a conservative build with most of my attention on handling. Maybe it can be designed to blow everyone else away my in the bends. Similar to when the AWD Audi was first introduced into circuit racing. Everyone was jealous of the Audi’s AWD advantage because they would spin out while the Audi drove like it was on rails. Significantly less power yet owning the track with a grip that seemed limitless. Now if days, there are plenty of vehicles that handle such a way. It could still be worth a 375hp build mainly concentrating on a bit higher torque levels, but really putting attention into grip. Goofy looking aero suspension tuning and tires will always work wonders. As long as the aero is complementing the power and not creating to much drag on the engine it should rocket through the corners and win you a brandy new turbski.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

I agree. I have always been disciplined to upgrade suspension first. It's a safety thing and there is so much to be gained with a car that handles first. Robi set up my car, then I got more Robi upgrades. So for me, this build is about reliability as much as it is about racing above 500hp safely.

Bee-Raddd

my engine is currently 5 years old. the only thing ive ever done internally is replace the oil after every round and i do big ends every season. never done piston rings. never done main bearings etc.

We leakdown test and compression test it every offseason and its still like brand new.

The key is to do correct maintenance and use quality parts and a skilled builder

This engine has always made over 400kw at the wheels. currently making 515kw at the wheels on high boost. so we r talking 600 to 700hp at the wheels. it was originally street and track driven but past 2 years are pure race miles. do 5 meetings a year 3 races + practice and qualifying each round. and i do 3 or 4 test sessions a year also.

Theres plenty of ways to skin a cat. we see this with the category i race in. people race everything from honda civics to evos and skylines to big block v8 ex nascars and v8 supercars to spec gt3 and modified gt3 machines and even a couple of prototype cars.

All of these cars vary wildly in their approach to how to do the fastest lap possible. some cars are 800+ HP and are a rocket down the straights. others are only 300hp but are hooked up so good its like they are hooked into some invisible rail track through the corners. others are a combination of both.

Theres numerous evos racing in our series and the sister series in the south island here that are well over 500hp and reliable as hell.

The only engine related issue ive ever had is when the wastegate exhaust weld failed and i gas axed my radiator.

It doesnt matter how u achieve speed on the track and nothing wrong with a focus on handling. but if built and maintained correctly evos absolutely are reliable at over 500hp. and no u dont have to rebuild them all the time. like i said i havnt rebuilt mine in 5 years

kaj

iTrader: (60)

This is the approach I'm taking. I have a brand-new, OEM shorblock and make about 350whp or so on track days. It's not the most power I can have, but I'd like to see the car do another 130k miles LOL. I run e85 as well, to keep temps down, on top of mods to help with oil, brakes, etc. When I go to meets, everyone is disappointed to look into my engine bay haha:



As a bonus, my lap times are better because I'm not trying to rein in the 460whp it used to have. When I am a better driver, I'll add more power.
My focus is on getting the car to weigh less, handle better, then of course the driver-mod upgrade. Oh, and for the car to be lower-maintenance and not need frequent engine rebuilds.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I'm a huge stickler about having a tidy engine bay. Partly because I like eye candy but moreso because tidy stuff is often easier and faster to work on.

One of the things I'm hoping to get done in the spring is to throw a connector in the main harness where it tee's off to the engine. It'll clean things up a tad but more importantly it'll make pulling the engine a lot less painful since only one connector will have to be disconnected instead of having to disconnect everything on the engine and tie the harness up and out of the way.

I don't plan on pulling the engine on a regular basis but anything to streamline the process is a step in the right direction.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure most of us in this section religiously change our oils and fluids. It's easy maintenance and peace of mind.


It's great to address the topic of this thread and hear about 500+HP EVO's making their way around tracks for years w/o rebuilding.


As my rebuild comes together, I sent off my Shep Stage II trans and transfer case to Shep for inspection. Expected to hear, "Why did you send in this beautiful like new transmission and TC?".....but ofcourse I really heard...."Send us $2800 to get you back in spec." LOL! Always my luck.


So on that note:
* I'd like to hear what racers are using for fluids in their trans and TC and diff
* I'd like to hear what break-in oil racers would use in February temps
* I'd like to hear what racing oil road racers and time attack drivers like


I have been using:
* T-case & rear diff: Diagueen Some use Redline 75/90.
* Trans: 1.5qt LWSP Blue & 1.5qt MT90


These threads are old as dirt, but I value current info and racers feedback in this section versus all the other threads and forums.


Thanks.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I found this a long time ago and its continually updated. Website is really flat and its super long, but theres a lot of good info in there. Like using 15-40 cause you think it has stronger film strength, according to him its just thicker. Thats it.

EDIT: Heres the actual link... https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

I basically went back to Mobile 1 5-30 but will probably switch to amsoil something to get better degassing that was brought up in another thread.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I've always used Rotella T-6 Oil for weekend hoonage, Time Attack, HPDE, and AutoX. When I had an FP turbo, I used VR1 per their advice. Turbo lasted <2000 mi LOL. Now I'm back on stock turbo, T-6, and about 350whp for track days.
I based my decision on research from this site:
https://bobistheoilguy.com
as well as my own Blackstone analysis.
For the trans (6spd), I've always used OEM fluids only.

Bee-Raddd

ahhh the old oil question! its like asking what brand of coffee is the best!

Personally i use motul 15w50 engine oil. have used it for years and its always been mint. i switched to millers 10w50 for a while but found it was foaming in my extended wet sump so i went back to motul and the problem went away.

Transfer case has either motul in it or diaqueen if ralliart do the service. same with rear diff. and i just use any old ATF for the ayc system.

Gearbox i use millers 75w 140 which is what KAPS recommend is used in their dogboxes. seems really nice stuff. however i have also used motul in it without an issue.

As for break in oil, for an engine we would normally use the cheapest thickest mineral oil we can get for the first 500km. then dump it and go straight onto motul. but every engine builder normally has their method which is always the best method haha so just do whats recommended to you.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

My drivetrain gets redline. MT90 in the trans, 75w140 in the tcase and rear diff. I start fresh engines on amsoil 30wt break in oil. Run it in the garage at 2500-3k rpms for 20-25 minutes, then change the oil (and filter) for Driven break in oil. The driven then stays in for 500 miles. Though the filter does get changed 3 times. After that, another 500 miles on a Dino high zinc oil like VR1, then I go to synthetic Amsoil dominator. These motors like 15w50 or 20w50 to help keep the oil pump alive. So, bearing clearances should be set with that in mind.

SWOLN

iTrader: (6)

The highlighted alone is worth that post.