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Sup w/them 2023 Summer Projects?

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Old Jun 16, 2020, 02:09 PM
  #1636  
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I still think its a very viable solution. There is a cover on the side of the box that would need to be notched to get the wires out but there is plenty of space down there and its nice and centrally located. Running wires into the cabin is always a PITA especially if you try and leverage what is already there. Im not a fan of just drilling a hole and sticking in a grommet if I can avoid it.

I could never find the grommet on the driverside. There is clearly one on the pass side by strut towers and I have a few things running through there. But driverside I end up using the one by the fender which I hate but seems like best spot. Mine is so full though have ACD stuff going through there, wires for a fan switch and just wired up a turbo speed sensor that a managed to snake through there. But she full so next sensor and I'm screwed granted I said that last time...
Old Jun 16, 2020, 02:16 PM
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You could go through the box. If you did a good job and used connectors at the firewall and at the box exit you would still be able to remove the box without too much unpleasantness. It's a super pita to get that box in and out though for the modifications.
Old Jun 16, 2020, 02:28 PM
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What I'm imagining I'd leave the box inside the car. Dash would get pulled but dash bar could stay in even. Really just need to get the evap out if it isnt already. Basically there is the heater box a white cover piece that screws right into heater box and a black transitional piece that goes in between the box and the blower motor. Couple screws, and a couple clips need to be removed leave blower motor installed as well as heater core. Like most things, it'll make more sense right in front of you. Dash was apart a few weeks back so its still in my RAM
Old Jun 18, 2020, 08:09 PM
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did a sessions at an open track day in the golf and the evo yesterday. wow, the golf sucks. i realize it is supposed to not be as good but i didn't expect it to be that not good. the evo is razor sharp lightning quick compared to the golf. i thought the golf might serve as decent seat time practice for the evo, but i dont think it's going to cut it.

is there anything in our category/segment that's a hatch, awd or fwd that is as quick in terms of feel as the evo? I guess maybe the 08-13 GR sti would be the closest thing? veloster n may be a decent car as well. not interested in fors or ctr

alternatively, could add springs/struts to the car but i'm not trying to turn the daily into a project car as well.
Old Jun 18, 2020, 08:17 PM
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I dont think anything like the Evo will exist again because no one will justify something this barebones at that price point. It really was a sweet point in sporty, modable, and just nice enough to be sellable at the time.
Old Jun 19, 2020, 06:17 AM
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Just sell the Golf and buy a cheap beater evo that isn't modded much for like $12k. Spend $2k ish doing a suspension a d brake overhaul. Drive the **** out of it.

Set aside $5k for maintenance and repairs.
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Old Jun 19, 2020, 06:20 AM
  #1642  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
I dont think anything like the Evo will exist again because no one will justify something this barebones at that price point. It really was a sweet point in sporty, modable, and just nice enough to be sellable at the time.
That GR Yaris is looking pretty sweet.....not that we are getting one.
Old Jun 19, 2020, 07:28 AM
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Summer project update: STILL waiting on my Callies crank to be built. They originally sent a stock stroke crank to my builder and not the 94mm crank we ordered. Then COVID hit. Here I am months later still waiting. In other news, just found out from ER that my MIVEC cam gear is f'd. I'm guessing it happened when my timing belt snapped and my valves high-fived my pistons. Dowel pin was snapped off. Other than that, Evo is still sitting on jackstands and half taken apart. Still need to strip and paint my calipers, put my new stainless brake lines on, install my rebuilt double pumper (and figure out how to rewire the pumps correctly), and a bunch of other odds and ends.
Old Jun 21, 2020, 12:10 PM
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Dallas: i used where the heater core goes thru. made up a thin aluminium plate holesawed a hole in the middle of it bonded it to the firewall and put a grommet on it. job done. could go all mil spec and do a plug if your fancy enough,

Ive also run some wires through where the aircon air inlet is which would be top drivers side under the plastic trims between the hood and windscreen on your guys cars. heaps of room to run cables up through there.


Took my thing out to the track on saturday for a bit of winter running. got one dry session and about 4 in the wet. the ohlins suspension is night and day better than the teins i had. i think my corner speed in the wet is higher than it was in the dry on the old suspension.

Im having an issue in the wet with rear brakes locking. im running about 50mm rake from front to rear. is this too much rake maybe?
We disconnected the rear sway bar and were going to try again but the rest of the day got flagged cause it got too wet.
Old Jun 21, 2020, 02:48 PM
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Since I havent gotten to do some of the racing I wanted to Im sitting on a PILE of case in the race budge . Looking at changing the steering wheel and doing a taller shifter. Big thing I want to do is get the wheel about 2" closer so I can move back. Hard to tell on the spacing of everything but seems a standard offset wheel with the NRG adapter and quick release puts me around further back the OEM position?

For shifter, the IRP seems to be the way to go for minimal trimming of the center console.
Old Jun 21, 2020, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bee-raddd
. im running about 50mm rake from front to rear.
Wow. Is this with OEM uprights/arms/etc or running something else that allows for that much?
Old Jun 21, 2020, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj
Wow. Is this with OEM uprights/arms/etc or running something else that allows for that much?
OEM arms hubs etc but ohlin adjustables and i have camber n toe arms etc
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Old Jun 21, 2020, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Since I havent gotten to do some of the racing I wanted to Im sitting on a PILE of case in the race budge . Looking at changing the steering wheel and doing a taller shifter. Big thing I want to do is get the wheel about 2" closer so I can move back. Hard to tell on the spacing of everything but seems a standard offset wheel with the NRG adapter and quick release puts me around further back the OEM position?

For shifter, the IRP seems to be the way to go for minimal trimming of the center console.
Maybe, but the CAE is MILES better. It took some getting used to but in the same session I found half a second.
Old Jun 21, 2020, 06:51 PM
  #1649  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Maybe, but the CAE is MILES better. It took some getting used to but in the same session I found half a second.
Im going to be stuck with the "1lb clearancing" rule that limits me from doing the CAE I think. The only pic I've seen of that under center console required substantial cutting. The CAE was more like notching forward a bit.
Old Jun 21, 2020, 07:00 PM
  #1650  
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Hmm, actually going thru the old CAE shifter thread, Yip shared the trimming he had to do and its not that bad..

I can get away with this much.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...13ea07695c.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...bb1a0272a4.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...29c8c86d4e.jpg


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