Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
WL Tie rod is also 5mm longer than stock, exacerbating the effect of adding caster. Definitely want to keep the OEM tie-rod. You are causing toe-in on braking which will also cause dartiness in a different way. And can also be your source of killing the inside of the tire with high camber. Doesnt matter if in or out, toe will still scrub the highest loaded edge.
The bumpsteer adjustment range is based on the correction factor and an assumed range of stock to +7.5deg caster, and stock to +10mm of ball joint (WL is +5mm, mine are 0, +5, and +10). With the right combo, you can get much more caster just need to also run longer ball joint. At +10 ball joint, you could can technically correct for over 10deg of caster. I run 9...
Because the slider axis on our mac strut is pretty much vertical we get almost no camber gain. So the easy mode way to getting as close to zero is to just set the control arm and toe arm parallel. Theyre about the same length to the pivot so it works great. I dont even bother measuring bumpsteer manually anymore when I make changes (yeah, probably lazy of me) and just use a digital level, often my phone) to set them parallel.
For high caster, if you're worried about jacking effect my car measures a 0.4deg tilt going to full steering lock. It accounts for some roll angle, but its not as dramatic as people would make it out to be and certainly is overcome by the camber gain in steering.
The bumpsteer adjustment range is based on the correction factor and an assumed range of stock to +7.5deg caster, and stock to +10mm of ball joint (WL is +5mm, mine are 0, +5, and +10). With the right combo, you can get much more caster just need to also run longer ball joint. At +10 ball joint, you could can technically correct for over 10deg of caster. I run 9...
Because the slider axis on our mac strut is pretty much vertical we get almost no camber gain. So the easy mode way to getting as close to zero is to just set the control arm and toe arm parallel. Theyre about the same length to the pivot so it works great. I dont even bother measuring bumpsteer manually anymore when I make changes (yeah, probably lazy of me) and just use a digital level, often my phone) to set them parallel.
For high caster, if you're worried about jacking effect my car measures a 0.4deg tilt going to full steering lock. It accounts for some roll angle, but its not as dramatic as people would make it out to be and certainly is overcome by the camber gain in steering.
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...kaAg4NEALw_wcB
Originally Posted by razorlab
I'm going to assume you don't feel any difference with +20tq on a 5,500lb vehicle.
Can definitely feel that it pulls better above about 5000rpm.
i just have the tie rod ends, i assume they just thread them in more to match length..?
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...kaAg4NEALw_wcB
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...kaAg4NEALw_wcB
When was the last time you had an alignment?
i dont have any bumpsteer but i do have toe for sure. Alignment was in March. Took off the tires last night. The rear tires actually look decent, maybe a few events left out of them. The front driver's side is worn on the outside and the front passenger's side is worn out on the inside (aka both left). Car drives straight but clearly something messed up
Setting up to take the next step and return to daily-driver capability:
- conversion to speed density
- Walbro 525 fuel pump
- FIC 1200s & resistor delete pack
- Grimmspeed electronic boost controller
- dyno tune for 93 octane
i dont have any bumpsteer but i do have toe for sure. Alignment was in March. Took off the tires last night. The rear tires actually look decent, maybe a few events left out of them. The front driver's side is worn on the outside and the front passenger's side is worn out on the inside (aka both left). Car drives straight but clearly something messed up
If you had toe out (or in) under heavy braking, you would have bump steer to some degree, they both cause suspension compression. Hence why I said to check the angle on your tie rod and LCA.
If you're just seeing tire wear that looks like it's from excessive toe then it's time to get that alignment checked. Something might have loosened up on you. Also what tires are you on and how many days are on them?
If you had toe out (or in) under heavy braking, you would have bump steer to some degree, they both cause suspension compression. Hence why I said to check the angle on your tie rod and LCA.
If you're just seeing tire wear that looks like it's from excessive toe then it's time to get that alignment checked. Something might have loosened up on you. Also what tires are you on and how many days are on them?
If you had toe out (or in) under heavy braking, you would have bump steer to some degree, they both cause suspension compression. Hence why I said to check the angle on your tie rod and LCA.
If you're just seeing tire wear that looks like it's from excessive toe then it's time to get that alignment checked. Something might have loosened up on you. Also what tires are you on and how many days are on them?
I'm also switching my rear pads to ST43s (had Girodisc S/S) to match the front ST43s and that may gain some improvement in braking stability as well. I've never been on as high speed of a track as Road America so I think little things that were okay in terms of spec get amplified out there. will be better prepped next time for sure.
Driver Front
Passenger Front
Driver Rear
Passenger Rear
Im not sure why its even a discussion of whats wrong before getting an alignment :P
On a related note, when my front diff last year was broken (all plates in the clutch inner tabs were sheared off and housing was cracked) I was having a lot of inside tire wear from it spinning inside front wheel.
On a related note, when my front diff last year was broken (all plates in the clutch inner tabs were sheared off and housing was cracked) I was having a lot of inside tire wear from it spinning inside front wheel.
Originally Posted by KazzEvo8
Setting up to take the next step and return to daily-driver capability:
- conversion to speed density
- Walbro 525 fuel pump
- FIC 1200s & resistor delete pack
- Grimmspeed electronic boost controller
- dyno tune for 93 octane
EvoM Community Team Leader
Joined: Aug 2005
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Likes: 708
From: West Coast
Setting up to take the next step and return to daily-driver capability:
- conversion to speed density
- Walbro 525 fuel pump
- FIC 1200s & resistor delete pack
- Grimmspeed electronic boost controller
- dyno tune for 93 octane
Agreed with the Ohlins rec. Also, what turbo are you running? That's a lot of pump for 93 oct. Shes power hungry so will require a dual voltage rewire and again just seems like complete overkill when a trusty Wally 255 will most likely suffice.
Fronts don't look terrible. Passenger rear seems decent, kind of hard to tell if there's toe wear on the driver rear.
Either way, you've gotten a lot out of those 71rs. They're short life tires. Competitive TA guys only get 1-2 weekends out of a set (meaning like 15-20 laps MAYBE) and HPDE guys usually get 5-6 days out of a set. Obviously track and car setup amongst other variables affect that but that's the middle of the bell curve.
Either way, you've gotten a lot out of those 71rs. They're short life tires. Competitive TA guys only get 1-2 weekends out of a set (meaning like 15-20 laps MAYBE) and HPDE guys usually get 5-6 days out of a set. Obviously track and car setup amongst other variables affect that but that's the middle of the bell curve.
Another vote for Ohlins. I didn't believe the hype until I installed them. They really do work well for normal street driving.
8/10 springs should be fine unless you have really bad roads, in which case you could try picking up a 7kg spring and run 7/8 for a while.
I'd take slightly higher spring rates with Ohlins damping over the stock struts with aftermarket springs. The only time I'd consider going back to OEM struts is if I needed the additional ride height for some reason.
8/10 springs should be fine unless you have really bad roads, in which case you could try picking up a 7kg spring and run 7/8 for a while.
I'd take slightly higher spring rates with Ohlins damping over the stock struts with aftermarket springs. The only time I'd consider going back to OEM struts is if I needed the additional ride height for some reason.
Im not sure why its even a discussion of whats wrong before getting an alignment :P
On a related note, when my front diff last year was broken (all plates in the clutch inner tabs were sheared off and housing was cracked) I was having a lot of inside tire wear from it spinning inside front wheel.
On a related note, when my front diff last year was broken (all plates in the clutch inner tabs were sheared off and housing was cracked) I was having a lot of inside tire wear from it spinning inside front wheel.
Fronts don't look terrible. Passenger rear seems decent, kind of hard to tell if there's toe wear on the driver rear.
Either way, you've gotten a lot out of those 71rs. They're short life tires. Competitive TA guys only get 1-2 weekends out of a set (meaning like 15-20 laps MAYBE) and HPDE guys usually get 5-6 days out of a set. Obviously track and car setup amongst other variables affect that but that's the middle of the bell curve.
Either way, you've gotten a lot out of those 71rs. They're short life tires. Competitive TA guys only get 1-2 weekends out of a set (meaning like 15-20 laps MAYBE) and HPDE guys usually get 5-6 days out of a set. Obviously track and car setup amongst other variables affect that but that's the middle of the bell curve.
Nice to know this place is still alive! Thank you all for the replies!
Really? I swore off coils when I did my last car that way. Our roads are just abominable. Admittedly they're fixing some now. But I know it's just a matter of time. Anyway, Swift Sport Springs and whichever struts were the direction I thought I might go. But it's going to be a while before I have to make a decision. I will do some due diligence on the Ohlins now!
I'm using FP's white rabbit turbo (circa 2005) that they had at 31psi when they tested it. I run it at 29+ all the time. 880cc injectors and the Walbro 255's in the tank now. Mellon said I wasn't quite peaking the injectors, but that was right as corn squeezin's were getting more popular and we figured I'd have to do something with the injectors and likely the fuel pump at that time.
It's interesting you mention that. I don't think I need a disc player anymore. I can bury my folio of endless CDs and DVDs. LOL But I'm considering a double-din panel that can display gauges, etc. and relocating the HVAC controls. That's more homework I need to do. I have a Pioneer amp that's been sitting in a box for far too long. Door speakers are the only stock ones so far. I'd like to come up with a removable sub for the trunk probably, too. Factoring in the possibility of a bettery relo instead of this Braille AGM battery I pamper all the time, too.
I make sure my phone has plenty of storage and the family uses Spotify, but I do like falling back to OTA stations from time to time.
Thanks again!
Another vote for Ohlins. I didn't believe the hype until I installed them. They really do work well for normal street driving.
8/10 springs should be fine unless you have really bad roads, in which case you could try picking up a 7kg spring and run 7/8 for a while.
I'd take slightly higher spring rates with Ohlins damping over the stock struts with aftermarket springs. The only time I'd consider going back to OEM struts is if I needed the additional ride height for some reason.
8/10 springs should be fine unless you have really bad roads, in which case you could try picking up a 7kg spring and run 7/8 for a while.
I'd take slightly higher spring rates with Ohlins damping over the stock struts with aftermarket springs. The only time I'd consider going back to OEM struts is if I needed the additional ride height for some reason.
I'm using FP's white rabbit turbo (circa 2005) that they had at 31psi when they tested it. I run it at 29+ all the time. 880cc injectors and the Walbro 255's in the tank now. Mellon said I wasn't quite peaking the injectors, but that was right as corn squeezin's were getting more popular and we figured I'd have to do something with the injectors and likely the fuel pump at that time.
Personally I'm not a fan of lugging around a bunch of CD's so a while back I moved a "mechless" Digital Media Receiver. No CD player but less moving parts, lighter weight, smaller so easier/more mounting options, and cheaper. If your an audiophile type, most all that I am aware off will play FLAC from a USB stick etc. Some have native app support for spotify and pandora etc, or you can just stream audio from your mobile. I went with Pioneer but any of the big manufacturers will have comparable decks. If you are going to drive the speakers from the deck you might want to do some research on which units have better built in drivers. I have mine wired up to an Amp so I didn't really factor that in. I would def recommend upgrading the speakers as well, the factory ones are garbage, and at this point they are really old brittle garbage.
I make sure my phone has plenty of storage and the family uses Spotify, but I do like falling back to OTA stations from time to time.
Thanks again!