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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 02:16 PM
  #3796  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
That battery "mount"/"tie down" and no battery box is pretty jank. I wouldn't be happy with having paid money for that. Also I don't see a fuse or breaker near the battery.
yea i'm trying to fix that part

I did provide and use the evo x battery relocation kit from STM though so in the front it's got the fuse block, but regardless I am going to cover the positive terminal over the battery.


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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 02:23 PM
  #3797  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by kyoo
yea i'm trying to fix that part

I did provide and use the evo x battery relocation kit from STM though so in the front it's got the fuse block, but regardless I am going to cover the positive terminal over the battery.

its not about the terminal cover. its a circuit breaker with the shortest connection to the batt, just in case the cable shorts somewhere. say a hungry rat chewed a section, if that exposed section shorts, the whole cable from there to positive terminal will heat up and burn, unless your battery explodes first <- for that you need the box
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 02:31 PM
  #3798  
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yep you definitely want to chuck something like a 150A fuse straight off the battery. You can get those inline ones that guys use on subwoofers or something similar.

It is a bit of an average job in the way of positioning and looks but it seems functional at least.


Im sure the mount location points must be there on the under side of the left hand chassis rail for the JDM pump. They wouldnt have seperate jigs for USDM and JDM surely.

I can take some photos if you guys want for inspiration
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 02:51 PM
  #3799  
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ah ok - so i just put this one the battery terminal (https://www.ebay.com/itm/31348558808...js0000b2900004) and then the rest of it follows as already set up?
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 03:15 PM
  #3800  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
ah ok - so i just put this one the battery terminal (https://www.ebay.com/itm/31348558808...js0000b2900004) and then the rest of it follows as already set up?
In the absence of knowing what the load rating is on your system yes should be the way to go. Providing the block in the engine bay from STM has appropriate circuit breakers etc for the ACD pump etc as per factory
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 03:25 PM
  #3801  
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Here's a 200A/120A one if you need it https://www.ebay.com/itm/16519464337...gAAOSwyJlf2l17

Last edited by ViciousLSD; Nov 23, 2021 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 05:11 PM
  #3802  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
Here's a 200A/120A one if you need it https://www.ebay.com/itm/16519464337...gAAOSwyJlf2l17
well damn i just ordered the other one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/313485588087?). i think it will be fine. is there install instructions on this puppy? lol. can't really tell from looking at it where it mounts to.
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Old Nov 23, 2021 | 10:00 PM
  #3803  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
well damn i just ordered the other one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/313485588087?). i think it will be fine. is there install instructions on this puppy? lol. can't really tell from looking at it where it mounts to.
It looks very similar to your original ones the wingnut-bolt on your positive terminal goes into the hole, the red cable goes to the new stud. find a nut if it didnt come with
the original has 100A and 60A but i think you should be fine, you're only trying cover for shorts on the main cable

Last edited by ViciousLSD; Nov 23, 2021 at 10:06 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 07:17 AM
  #3804  
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Do we have such a fuse in EVO X already?
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 09:48 AM
  #3805  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by MrAWD
Do we have such a fuse in EVO X already?
behind that red cover
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23384782752...4AAOSwlrFat9hT

its a pretty lame solution for the battery reloc IMO
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 09:52 AM
  #3806  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
It looks very similar to your original ones the wingnut-bolt on your positive terminal goes into the hole, the red cable goes to the new stud. find a nut if it didnt come with
the original has 100A and 60A but i think you should be fine, you're only trying cover for shorts on the main cable
He still has the 100A and 60A for alternator and ACD pump up front. Just needs a fused supply from battery to protect a dead short in the event of the cable getting worn through or damaged. TBH it doesnt matter what amps this one is within reason as it will blow on a dead short regardless. as long as it has more amps than 120A so it doesnt blow before one of the downstream fuses does. suppoze it doesnt matter much as its going to be a bad day regardless. I soldered one back together one day so i could keep going once haha.
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 10:06 AM
  #3807  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
behind that red cover
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23384782752...4AAOSwlrFat9hT

its a pretty lame solution for the battery reloc IMO
Agreed, The ugly wiring is still all there. But the alternative is a bit of a major to relocate it all. You can do it but it means cutting and re crimping lines etc. and you still need to run a cable through to the alternator
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 10:20 AM
  #3808  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by bee-raddd
He still has the 100A and 60A for alternator and ACD pump up front. Just needs a fused supply from battery to protect a dead short in the event of the cable getting worn through or damaged. TBH it doesnt matter what amps this one is within reason as it will blow on a dead short regardless. as long as it has more amps than 120A so it doesnt blow before one of the downstream fuses does. suppoze it doesnt matter much as its going to be a bad day regardless. I soldered one back together one day so i could keep going once haha.
That's what I mean. It's for just in case someone with rally halogen lights looks into this mod no idea whats the wattage on those
you can just put wire from nut to nut, jumping over the fuse in an emergency

Originally Posted by bee-raddd
Agreed, The ugly wiring is still all there. But the alternative is a bit of a major to relocate it all. You can do it but it means cutting and re crimping lines etc. and you still need to run a cable through to the alternator
I will have to find out when i give it a go. Ideally I want the wires crossing over closer to the trans if possible. I'm definitely NOT adding that bulky bracket/EvoX fuse/block

Last edited by ViciousLSD; Nov 24, 2021 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 10:51 AM
  #3809  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by bee-raddd
I soldered one back together one day so i could keep going once haha.
https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tec...Link-Wire-FAQs
Can Type SXL primary wire be used to replace a fusible link?
SXL wire would work as an emergency replacement, but it would not have the required "Fusible Link" markings and the insulation would not be designed to contain flame and spark in the event of a circuit failure.


Are there any general guidelines for choosing a suitable fusible link?
Typically, a given harness segment is protected by fusible link that is four gauge numbers smaller. A 14-gauge wire would be protected by an 18-gauge fusible link. A 6-gauge wire would be protected by a 10-gauge link, and so on. Odd number wire gauge sizes like 19, 15, 13 and 11 are counted when sizing a link. The length of a fusible link should not exceed 9".
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 01:51 PM
  #3810  
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if you guys thought i was not good at mechanical stuff, i am double-y backwards when electric stuff is involved.

i can, however, go on swaps and debt capital markets... lmao
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