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Have I told you about my lord and savior, More Rear Spring?
haha well i've progressed grdually up from 10k, 11k, and now 12k, and it seems like it has really increased the oversteer. i'd like to dial it back if anything. i've still got my tanabe hollow fsb but i think it was a bit too much
haha well i've progressed grdually up from 10k, 11k, and now 12k, and it seems like it has really increased the oversteer. i'd like to dial it back if anything. i've still got my tanabe hollow fsb but i think it was a bit too much
You need to think about where and why its oversteering. If lift, its probably shock or lack of camber. Think about any other fast RWD car, would it also rotate? Trying to get a car perfectly stable pretty much means understeer. Back should move but be controllable when it does.
You need to think about where and why its oversteering. If lift, its probably shock or lack of camber. Think about any other fast RWD car, would it also rotate? Trying to get a car perfectly stable pretty much means understeer. Back should move but be controllable when it does.
too much steering angle + gas when it happens, but i feel like it used to just pull out of corners without drama, now it just destroys tire. maybe i should back down to 11k rear. if i did the same in my m3, yes it would totally spin out lol. i can modulate but it's a little tricky with the boost, not much difference between 70% throttle and 90% and 100%. i was hoping to really rely on it's strength of being able to claw out of corners without losing too much traction. might be the diffs too (started using ats 1-way rfont and 1.5-way rear carbon-hybrids this year).
As Dallas said, first step is figuring out where it's oversteering. Corner entry, mid corner or corner exit. Each one has different fixes.
If it's happening from too much steering angle, then use less angle. If you think about it in a dumbed down sense, the fastest way around a track is the way that allows you to be on the gas the most and turn the steering wheel the least. I haven't seen you drive but the old saying of "smooth is fast" still stands true today.
It is likely you will need to make more than one change to fix throttle oversteer and not just make it pushier. Like adding more toe-in at the rear or more negative camber at the rear combined eith stiffer rear springs.
too much steering angle + gas when it happens, but i feel like it used to just pull out of corners without drama, now it just destroys tire. maybe i should back down to 11k rear. if i did the same in my m3, yes it would totally spin out lol. i can modulate but it's a little tricky with the boost, not much difference between 70% throttle and 90% and 100%. i was hoping to really rely on it's strength of being able to claw out of corners without losing too much traction. might be the diffs too (started using ats 1-way rfont and 1.5-way rear carbon-hybrids this year).
Its too stiffer rear spring, I also had the same issue especially at high speed corner exit. Go back down a bit in rear spring and it will squat better out of the turns.
Its too stiffer rear spring, I also had the same issue especially at high speed corner exit. Go back down a bit in rear spring and it will squat better out of the turns.
Changing rear spring is a global effect trying to fix a single point characteristic. There are better ways to get the car to put power down than sacrifice the rest of the corner but rear spring should be balancing steady state not transitions. We run dramatically stiffer rears on track without that issue cause we fixed the other things.
Changing rear spring is a global effect trying to fix a single point characteristic. There are better ways to get the car to put power down than sacrifice the rest of the corner but rear spring should be balancing steady state not transitions. We run dramatically stiffer rears on track without that issue cause we fixed the other things.
Yea i guess thats the end goal isnt it, One day soon ill be ordering the rear hub kit from you, its probably out of most peoples budgets to upgrade all of that however so i guess they end up with no choice but to make do with what theyve got.
Its too stiffer rear spring, I also had the same issue especially at high speed corner exit. Go back down a bit in rear spring and it will squat better out of the turns.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Changing rear spring is a global effect trying to fix a single point characteristic. There are better ways to get the car to put power down than sacrifice the rest of the corner but rear spring should be balancing steady state not transitions. We run dramatically stiffer rears on track without that issue cause we fixed the other things.
like Dallas said it’s not too stiff (imo)
Out of the (4) cars we have the 12k is the lightest rear and 18k stiffest. The 18k feels stable on track. I haven’t autox’d it personally but Phouvanh said it’s stable at autox as well.
Yea i guess thats the end goal isnt it, One day soon ill be ordering the rear hub kit from you, its probably out of most peoples budgets to upgrade all of that however so i guess they end up with no choice but to make do with what theyve got.
Didnt mean to infer you have to have fancy uprights to make it stable, just that the goal should be to do what you can to make more rear spring work. As I keep saying, the more you can make the rear work the less the front has to do.
As for why some have more rear rotation than others, think about what happens to your roll axis when the front RC drops 3:1 and front drops 1:1.
Didnt mean to infer you have to have fancy uprights to make it stable, just that the goal should be to do what you can to make more rear spring work. As I keep saying, the more you can make the rear work the less the front has to do.
As for why some have more rear rotation than others, think about what happens to your roll axis when the front RC drops 3:1 and front drops 1:1.
roll center kit not enough, imagine the front upright should improve that though? plus i will tweak the ride heights for front and rear sometime, it's the off season already here
Throttle oversteer on exit is usually an actual goal for any track'd evo lol. Managing that after is just a grip equation which is FAR easier then fixing understeer out of the box so its going the right direction.
