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@Dallas J can you confirm ap racing 8350's fit on your front uprights? may consider running this setup + the binary eng brake ducts.
I see from matt's post in 2018 that it required some dremeling, not sure if that's still the case or if any of the design has changed at all.
Some of the brake kits end up shifting the rotor center line and the inner lip can interfere with the bottom of the upright. Its in an area that I need to just taper and clearance but that wont happen till I clear out the current stock of uprights. For now people that have had clearance issues there just grind that area for clearance.
The joys of aftermarket Oklahoma land grab when using available space.
btw, does the upright move the wheel position relative to the arch forwards or backwards? if it moves forward im gonna need a plate that adds additional caster on top of the ciro plate to move it back more haha.
btw, does the upright move the wheel position relative to the arch forwards or backwards? if it moves forward im gonna need a plate that adds additional caster on top of the ciro plate to move it back more haha.
They're straight inline. No change from OEM in that aspect. But yes, every bit of caster you can get is a win.
Dallas… do your rear uprights change caster in the rear? Is this even possible? I was considering your whole rear setup this winter, but I was wondering what geometry changes happen when doing this swap.
Dallas… do your rear uprights change caster in the rear? Is this even possible? I was considering your whole rear setup this winter, but I was wondering what geometry changes happen when doing this swap.
thank you!
Rear caster is a bit of misnomer. Technically yes you could call it that, but the effects of caster isnt really something you would see in the rear like camber gain or jacking effects. But what you do change with rotation of the rear upright is anti-squat and bump steer with the relative height changes of the pivot points. I move both the control arm and trailing arm mounts in my design and adjust the toe-link center line for the geometry change plus a range of adjustment.
On the 8/9 setup we get +/- 10mm but on the X we can only get +10/-6 because of some clearance issues with the trailing arm at droop. Had to make some compromises to increase clearance there.
still looking into the ap racing brakes stuff and looking through I noticed this:
Please also note, DO NOT BOLT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE CALIPER BRACKET AND THE SUSPENSION UPRIGHT! Any ears or tabs from a brake duct system bolted between the bracket and the upright will malign the caliper from its intended orientation, causing potentially serious damage to the entire brake system or car. The bracket should be directly bolted to the upright as intended, with nothing sandwiched between the two.
I don't know exactly how a radial mounted brake kit looks, but are they basically referring to a ducting bracket like binary's?
still looking into the ap racing brakes stuff and looking through I noticed this:
I don't know exactly how a radial mounted brake kit looks, but are they basically referring to a ducting bracket like binary's? https://www.binaryeng.com/products/automotive
if so, damn - i spent quite a bit of time and money getting that set up.
if so, damn - i spent quite a bit of time and money getting that set up.
The brake duct part should be installed just below the bolt head, not between the caliper and the upright.
4th picture on the Binary site shows it.
If the duct is installed between the caliper and the upright it will shift the caliper out of position. Installing the duct between the caliper and the bolt head basically functions like a washer with an attached brake duct.
i'm thinking based on the size and spacing of the ap brakes, there are a few wheels that just barely didn't clear/needed a spacer - namely the 17/18x9.5 ce28SL version, where the spoke spacing collided with the back portion of the caliper. the 8350 may just have enough spacing and size differential to allow clearance for those wheels, may be willing to give it a shot here.
As already mentioned they are talking about the centerline of the caliper vs the disc as if you were standing infront of the wheel looking back if you wedge something under the caliper it will be offset to the disc and you wont get even braking and one pad would drag.
Radial mounted calipers bolt down from the top anyway so youll need to have a bracket fabricated to bolt up to the factory location for them to fit unless this comes with the kit. Youll need to redesign your brake ducts i would imagine.
Here is some photos of my radial mounted AP brakes to give you an idea. you can see the oval cut out where my brake duct mounts up
