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gave it a run, seemed fine on both afr's and boost
also, the 75w90ns has quieted down the front diff a touch. it still makes the groaning/deep knocking noise, but no more of the violent popping, probably from what jon said with the stiction.. it does feel very bind-y with no power and low speed parking lot turns, like it wants to stop the car. My driveway requires a sharp left in, and slightly inclined, and I've stalled it twice from the car not wanting to move forward, so I still plan to remove some preload, but the noise and drivability is fine for now. will change it later.
i was at an autox last weekend and the conditions weren't ideal (40-50 deg, with 20-25mph wind gusts) - so I had zero ability to keep any heat in the tires. Usually that's when the Evo handles the best, but man it was extremely loose on power - the site I ran on is concrete but it's pretty janky concrete. Regardless, pretty surprising how loose the car behaved, likely due to conditions and the rear diff. I got up the car to set the sway bar to soft and it was already on soft so...
This is a clip of one of the runs where i got very late on the slaloms and then gunned it to the finish, but still wouldn't have expected it to power-oversteer like this
It power oversteered like cause the way you drove it. Evo lets you get away with a lot but you basically linked a bunch of Scandinavian flics and then WOT. Of course it'll oversteer. :P
Smooth your hands and ease on power and it would have been all good.
yea that was just an example of when it came around on me. i'd say 4-5 of the 11 runs ended up oversteering somewhere
Welcome to my world. All the people I do events with think AWD is soooooooo easy to drive. Just floor it and go. They can't see how much I modulate my throttle at any type of autox event. We should stick a GoPro by the pedals. The car is HARD to drive fast when you make decent power and torque.
Welcome to my world. All the people I do events with think AWD is soooooooo easy to drive. Just floor it and go. They can't see how much I modulate my throttle at any type of autox event. We should stick a GoPro by the pedals. The car is HARD to drive fast when you make decent power and torque.
Same, I always get the same thing in the pits after flying by people on track. "Oh, this is AWD? That's why". Then I would ask them if they wanted to ride passenger, the ones who do are like "omg I am going to die, how do you drive this so fast".
Same, I always get the same thing in the pits after flying by people on track. "Oh, this is AWD? That's why". Then I would ask them if they wanted to ride passenger, the ones who do are like "omg I am going to die, how do you drive this so fast".
Lol.
so true. I like letting them drive my car and seeing them get nowhere near my lap/run times.
Welcome to my world. All the people I do events with think AWD is soooooooo easy to drive. Just floor it and go. They can't see how much I modulate my throttle at any type of autox event. We should stick a GoPro by the pedals. The car is HARD to drive fast when you make decent power and torque.
it's what we were talking about before - it's feeling nice and neutral on cold tires, and turns to understeer when the tires are hot
it's what we were talking about before - it's feeling nice and neutral on cold tires, and turns to understeer when the tires are hot
Weird that's it's so good on cold tires, though. without witnessing your driving, if it feels decent on cold tires but then pushes when they're warm, it sounds like you need to loosen up the rear end up a LOT.
The oversteer can be fixed with rear alignment changes. -3.5 deg of camber and a half inch of total toe-in on the rear will not oversteer on exit or anywhere else.
yea im gonna see how the car feels on track hot and decide if i need to tweak anything with the setup.
re: power - i did decide to pick up gsc s2 cams, gsc springs, retainers, and the topline lifters. i really need 8-8200 rpms at the top, so many spots on track i flounder between 3-4 and 4-5. hoping for a decent power bump at the top as well. dont expect much change peak but 20-30whp at 6-8k rpms would really help
maybe it's just me, but that video doesn't look 'oversteery' to me. Quite the opposite really. I saw one spot where a wheel yank resulted in something other than total understeer but I wouldn't attribute that to a setup problem. If anything I'd say you need more rear roll stiffness and smoother wheel/pedal inputs.
maybe it's just me, but that video doesn't look 'oversteery' to me. Quite the opposite really. I saw one spot where a wheel yank resulted in something other than total understeer but I wouldn't attribute that to a setup problem. If anything I'd say you need more rear roll stiffness and smoother wheel/pedal inputs.
Weird that's it's so good on cold tires, though. without witnessing your driving, if it feels decent on cold tires but then pushes when they're warm, it sounds like you need to loosen up the rear end up a LOT.
I agree with this. balance shouldn't dramatically change from cold tires to warm tires. What you describe is a car that is so pushy it is roasting the front tires which results in understeer and then have balanced the car in that condition by not running enough rear camber (or toe-in). when the fronts are cold you get more grip out of them and then roll over the rear tires a lot so it feels extra loose when cold. increasing rear roll stiffness will put more heat into the rears and less heat into the fronts but if you don't fix the now tremendous oversteer with more rear camber or toe-in you'll think that your increased roll stiffness is bad. Watch your tire pressure increases run by run, the fronts and rears should be going up by roughly the same amount each run. if you are getting 3-4psi increase on the fronts and 1psi increase of the rears after first run you need more rear roll stiffness.