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soft pedal is nearly always boiled fluid. esp if its quite instant like that. the fluid falls over its boiling point and then you get nothing very quick. hard pedal but no action is pads. same with vibration under brakes is the physical system itself overheating/pad falling apart.
soft pedal 9/10 is fluid.
As for fluid theres plenty of options these days. castrol SRF used to be the best stuff around. plenty of better fluids out there now and id almost say the SRF is the worst of the top bunch now.
Motul do 2 grades of fluid. RBF600 and RBF660
660 is 617F boiling point. 600 is only 594F. Obviously theres a cost difference between the 2. have used both. both are solid fluids.
Castrol SRF is 590F so is comparible to motul 600.
AP Racing do some fluids. ive used the R4 which is amazing. its boiling point is 644F and they say its got the highest dry boiling point of any fluid on the market. It also has a price tag to match, but i have used it on tracks where brakes are an issue and it makes a difference.
The Fluid i run 90% of the time is actually the Pagid brake fluid which is 626F so slightly better than the Motul 660 but its cheaper than both motul equivalents.Obviously not as good as the AP stuff but the price is right so that counts.
If you can get your hands on pagid id recommend that as its the best balance of all.
I have also had good results with Endless RF650. And its $40/Liter. 613*F dry boiling point.
Yea endless was the only other one ive tried and left out. Mainly because ive had issues with the local supplier of endless products and ive found their pads to not be compatible with my car.
Fluid itself seemed to work okay. kind of middle of the bunch. slots in around the motul rbf660. not a bad option comes down to price between the rbf660 and the endless in your area really. same with the pagid stuff.
The R4 is the best of the best but when you add price in as a factor its not really worth it unless the other fluids arent holding up.
I would probably try something like the castrol or motul600. if your still getting fluid boiling from that then you need to jump up to something better. id probably go straight to pagid or AP. if you still get boiling then you need to look at your braking system and consider some ducting
Motul is one of the first off of most lists usually because it's moisture tolerance doesn't last for * due to it having an obscene amount of dissolved air content which at temp drastically reduces compressibility. We'd go through cases of the stuff originally to keep up with pedal feel. R4 is pretty neat stuff too.
Well...it's been almost 6 years, but she's finally home and I guess I have some work ahead of me. Motor still needs to be broken in and tuned, and I need to sort a lot of things out...so maybe this is more of a spring/summer/fall project.
Whenever I put Motul in my car (either one) the initial inch of the pedal travel gets squishy immediately.
Yea, motul is dog crap. I really miss Torque. Amazing fluid but that guy had no clue how to run a business. I still have two bottles but I doubt I should use it at this point. I used SRF and had good luck with it but was planning on switching to the endless fluid whenever the car runs again.
Well...it's been almost 6 years, but she's finally home and I guess I have some work ahead of me. Motor still needs to be broken in and tuned, and I need to sort a lot of things out...so maybe this is more of a spring/summer/fall project.
You'llllllllll have to remind us lol. Sold a kidney for the turbo, could only then afford half a radiator and 3 wheels Looks like it bumps your oil pan.
Long story short, I dropped the car off for a motor build a few years ago, the shop took a very long time to build it, I was very very patient with them, and now I finally have it back. At this point, I don't even remember all the little details of the build, but in essence, it's a 4G64 destroked to 2.1 with billet crank, long rods, 10.5:1 compression, GSC S2s and an EFR 7163. I've also got some 18x12 Volks, 335s, and a bunch of Dallas' shiny parts waiting to be installed in the garage.
Long story short, I dropped the car off for a motor build a few years ago, the shop took a very long time to build it, I was very very patient with them, and now I finally have it back. At this point, I don't even remember all the little details of the build, but in essence, it's a 4G64 destroked to 2.1 with billet crank, long rods, 10.5:1 compression, GSC S2s and an EFR 7163. I've also got some 18x12 Volks, 335s, and a bunch of Dallas' shiny parts waiting to be installed in the garage.
Oh snap, that finally got back to you? Hit me up when you get to installing SSB parts. You have the very first iteration of things and there have been a few tweaks and upgrades since then. Like stainless spacers to replace aluminum. Also, are you ball joint bearings held in with a snap ring or a bolt on cap? If not bolt on, I just replace your bodies so you have the good version.
(sold) Anyone want some ULTRA RARE (couldn't help it) R/T Ernie trailing arms? Clears everything I've thrown at them. The ball joint is a Moog part so it's cheap to replace if you felt so inclined but it just needs grease. Paid 650 in 2012. Make offer PM. Gonna do a garage sale list soon but figured ya'll would want first crack at this one.
Looks like it bumps your oil pan.
