Uh, must be your vendor? 500ml of each - Pagid is 36.99, Endless is 39.90. SRF, made by Castrol, however is $80 if that's what you meant.

 

Cheapest I've found endless was $45. $39.99 would be even better.
Maybe I'll try Pagid. Do they they only have one fluid or do I need to be sure to pick the right one?

 

Looks like the code on it says 1450. That's probably about the standard for a race tire autox car with aero. I have 1500lb/in or 1600lb/in as options for the rear of mine.

 

so... best place to get a cusco rear diff? lol

 

The best deal I was able to find was from RZcrew out of singapore I think. Even my US contacts couldnt get it cheaper even when shipping was considered. I bought both my front and rear diff from them this winter but they were on back order so they took a couple months to get.

https://rzcrewgarage.com/

 

800 lb/in and 1450 lb/in is the largest front/rear difference I've seen so far. What's the reasoning behind such a large split?

 

got it. seems about right, looks like i'll be getting cuscos for front and rear this fall.

will send the t-case and rear diff back to TRE. re: the t-case, how much of it getting lined up properly depends on the installer vs the one who dials it in (TRE)?

 

A short answer, an Evo turns best when inside rear is in the air and thats also when you care about its balance. How much mass is that spring now carrying? Does that make the car loose before it pics up a tire? No, theirs too much tire/weight back there, and if that were the case we'd never get to the point of lifting. Keep pumping them rear numbers till its too much, then try and control other ways like toe, camber, pressure. Then pump more. 1450 is a starting point but I know some running more. Im wanting to try out 1600 but with covid and packwood loss I dont really have a good place to test anymore. So sticking with whats worked other than some bar adjustments.

 

**** me dead thats 25-26kg spring rate in the rear thats mental heavy. heaviest ive been is 20kg but even then ive come back down to 16 which is only 900.

 

Cheapest i could find was RHD Japan

 

Let me add to that, there are absolutely other ways to do it. But to turn tight, this has been the best recipe. And this is based on the fact our roll centers and camber control are all sorted out. You can do the same thing on a stock geometry car but youre going to want to have the front pretty high, maybe within 1/2" of stock height.

The recipe certainly changes when you change the requirements and variables. Dramatically change weight distribution like Zacks FP Evo or add significant front aero where keeping the splitter flat and low is primary concern are examples where things change and high front rates are needed.

But ask yourself this, what does your car do mid corner? How can you effect that? What are the ramifications and are those controllable thru other means? This logic is whats lead us to keep pumping them rear numbers. Hell, I could also go even more extreme in the rates and use more rear aero to keep it stable. And thats what I would do if this season hasnt been such a kick to the jimmes.

 

I assume this would be more suited to auto-x rather than actual circuit work?

I have found with the 20kg springs in the rear that it was almost undrivable at any sort of pace in the wet.

What i should do is get the math out and corner weight my car and work out correct spring rates myself haha but im lazy

 

I think those rates are more specific to AutoX and small radius cornering.

What spring rates are you running up front with those 16K rears?

Maybe Dallas can fill us in on the latest thinking for track spring rates.

 

I would still actually run 1200-1450 on track in the dry for sure and probably just disconnect the rear bar if it was wet. When I track I don't change anything really. It just kind of dances around. A little lift and it starts rotating and some throttle to settle it. Now if you're in an oh-**** moment it takes a bit more countersteer but remember I'm not racing people, only the clock. I don't have the nerves to race people. And when my car gets loose, its super progressive and easy to control with the rear camber gain moved back to that more linear range.

Its really hard to explain to people how much different my car feels than a standard track evo. @Balrok (Mike) is one of the guys here that could speak to it but things are much different in what we can get away with when we're less compromised.

Rain is just a totally different beast because with good rain tires the grip difference between grip and slip where you really want to avoid sliding as much as possible. So you're hunting for that limit and trying hard to never exceed it.

 

Thought the ATS is the new hot stuff