Hey, at least it has a catchy name!!

 

The amount of setup information that has been dropped in this and the power oversteer thread over the last few days is awesome. As someone just stepping up to the purple crack heavy spring game I really appreciate you others giving out enough information to get in the realm of acceptable setup.

 

A lot. I set the camber adjuster to max negative and then lower the car until it has enough camber.

 

the platform is old, I guess there's not much point in keeping too many secrets these days. It's not really anything that couldn't be figured out by looking closely anyway.

 

I was about to say this same thing. No reason to keep any secrets anymore on this platform. Its a fast chassis, just pick your flavor and go.

 

The information sharing is greatly appreciated. It's interesting to see how the setup discussion has evolved over time as the more experienced drivers open up.

That's my real question at this point: What specifically did you look for to conclude that extremely high rear spring rates were the solution?

 

I meant that looking at the Berry car you could figure out what springs were in it pretty easy.

 

Speaking of rear rates...

I have been running 800 lb rear springs with a solid 27mm rear sway bar (Agency Power) for years. That sway bar is super heavy and I still have my stock rear bar and a much lighter Hotchkis 25mm hollow bar on the shelf. I want to swap in stiffer rear springs and one of those lighter bars without altering the balance of the car. Can anyone suggest a new rear rate for me? I have 12k front springs.

Thanks!

 

For what purpose? Autocross, track, or just general driving?

I ran similar spring rates for autocross with the Hotchkiss rear bar. For autocross, the stiffest setting on the Hotchkiss bar felt like it wasn't quite enough. For track duty I settled on the middle setting of the Hotchkiss bar for extra stability. However, this year I plan to go back to the stiffer rear bar setting and add more rear camber and toe to get the stability back.

 

Mostly track and occasional autocross. No meaningful street time. The 27mm bar definitely worked much better for me than the Hotchkis.

 

I remember you telling me to do exactly this about 6-7 years ago. Wound up with around -3 degrees and 1/2” toe-in on all stock arms. At the time I thought it was crazy, but then I drove the car...

 

FWIW had my first autox event switching to the stock FSB with ciro links & brackets. interestingly, the car didn't shift crazily towards oversteer - if anything it was pretty neutral/understeer-y. the ohlins coilovers were custom valved but the spring rates the same. RSB shifted from middle setting to soft setting in anticipation of more oversteer. i'm pretty happy with the behavior, would prefer a mild push on the track for now. i have several degrees of freedom to go looser at this point anyway.

 

And until now you had larger front sway bar?

Which one?

Your Ohlins are 9kg front 11kg rear, if I remember correctly? Flag?

Rear sway bar is which?

 

yea went from stock to tanabe sustec (hollow - fs, btw) back to stock + cirodesign endlinks & bracket that allow for more stiffness. ohlins are 8/11, r&t. rsb is 26mm whiteline on soft. no complaints on handling just noting i thought it would be looser. once i close on the new house i will work on funds to swap out the stock helical for a 1-way cusco up front and switch the os giken in rear back to a 1.5 cusco.

 

Pig's down to 3123 with me and a 1/4 tank, 2934 without. So theoretically 3100 dead empty at impound. SSB parts had no impact, in fact they add 100 lbs, nobody else get them