How'd you get it so cheap? lol

 

Didn't pay retail haha. Went thru a friend who's a supplier

 

Name. of. the. game.

 

The 45 kW extra are fabolous, but we can attribute that a lot to other changes..like larger injectors allowing perhaps more boost, and even dyno could read differently?

Now - what about spool?
How is it spooling at the bottom end? Did the turbo spool slower? Maybe you can elaborate a bit about low-mid turbo response and spool.

Thanks Brad.

 

Boost stayed the Same.

It was also the same dyno. However it was a different tuner and when he bought my old tune up the old tuner had used an inflated correction factor so it was hard to see the difference back to back.

I remember making decent gains already in spool and power when I went from ported stock to race fab.

I think there is better mid range torque and spool but with there being numerous changes and that correction factor on the old run being incorrect it's impossible to back to back them

 

I need new rear endlinks after rounding the 5mm inner hex on one side. Apparently I didn’t apply enough anti-seize last time.

Are the Whiteline rear endlinks a good choice? Or am I better off with one of the custom endlink recipes found in the forums?

 

custom. i switched from WL (i have some for sale if you still want WL) to custom, and it eliminated clunk in rear. fronts still have some on high load situations, i think it's probably something else there.

 

I made mine three years ago. Zero problems.

 

can you bleed the clutch with the power bleeder like you can with brakes? i just wanna do a quick flush here

 

No, it doesn't do it right. It can't get the pressure all the way through or something. Still have to do the pedal method there.

 

There's and internal bleed valve that lets the slave come all the way out when the pedal is all the way out. It's actually a big issue on 2gs with missadjusted clutch pedals causing the cranks to be constantly loaded. But the bypass will prevent the bleeding with motiv.

 

good to know, thanks

 

This is the first I've heard of this. I bleed my clutch with my motiv bleeder by compressing the slave which helps to push out any air that's after the bleeder. I'm wondering if this may have played a part to my trigger wheel wiping out my crank sensor.

 

The way you can tell if you're on the internal bleeder for the clutch master is to push in the the slave. If you can push it, you're depressing the valve. If you cant, you need to adjust the clutch pedal.

Jacks has a really old video of it. (found it)
2gs were really sensitive to this especially with the flywheels machined step causing engagement height issues. Evo still has it though.

 

Hmm I don't recall being unable to compress the slave but it's been a while.