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Got a small run of the ethanol sensor brackets made. Will have them assembled and ready to ship by the end of the week. If anyone is interested here are the details.This is a completely bolt on bracket solution. Made from CNC cut 6061 aluminum with zinc plated hardware.
It mounts the sensor off the back of the intake manifold. Allows for the use of quick disconnects on the return line. Sits only about 1ft away from the regulator and allows for the use of the factory return line, no modification required.
Don't wanted to get zapped for advertising without being a vendor so if you're interested, shoot me a message and I'll get you taken care of.
Note: This only works with the small style ethanol sensor (like in the photo) commonly found on GM vehicles which is also resold under many other names. Link to the sensor:
I buy zinc-aluminum flake coated hardware when I can. It's the dull grey bolts you see used by lots of OEMs. GM and Ford are particularly fond of it. It's rated to last 40 times longer in a salt spray test (standard corrosion test) than a normal zinc plated bolt.
I avoid stainless hardware like the plague unless it's purely cosmetic. Stainless can be kept from galling if you use a good thread lube and you avoid using stainless for the female threads too. i've found myself in a few situations where I'm forced to use stainless for both and I've had success with good lube, but as already said above, it's considerably weaker than other bolts, usually somewhere around half as strong as a grade 10.9 bolt of the same size.
Also, if you ever find yourself designing something around threaded fasteners it's important to recognize how a bolt is being stressed. You'll only ever find strength ratings for tensile strength (being pulled apart). Shear strength is usually around half of tensile strength as a rule of thumb. Properly designed stuff doesn't put bolts in shear, but sometimes it can't be avoided. In those situations your best bet is to use the strongest grade available and step up one or two diameter sizes.
And design the part to put the bolt in double shear if there is available space.
I buy zinc-aluminum flake coated hardware when I can. It's the dull grey bolts you see used by lots of OEMs. GM and Ford are particularly fond of it. It's rated to last 40 times longer in a salt spray test (standard corrosion test) than a normal zinc plated bolt.
Thanks Austin. That's a good tip, especially because I live in a salt spray test each winter.
Already getting depressed with the surface rust under my new Tacoma. I picked up some Fluid Film to spray under the Tacoma next winter. Not looking forward to that application process, but from what I've seen it sticks around long enough to displace the water through winter.
I still plan on using them to hold things like boost controllers or catch cans on. I'll look into that zinc/aluminum coated bolts though since zinc alone didn't seem sufficient where I live.
Mine fit fine with an 8" spring. 18x10.5 +38, 20mm spacer.
Which top plates are you using with the Ohlins? I have the new style Ciro caster plates. The top bearings move the whole strut down relative to the Ohlins plates, so it's all closer to the tire.
I could probably make an 8" spring work if I switched the caster plates out, but I'd rather not.
I'll pull it all apart tonight and measure everything in detail
Haha here's a fifth data point for you just to make sure you are 100% confused...I ran an 8" spring on my Ohlins with a 295/30 and while it "fit" there were rubber markings on the lower perch. Hoosiers like to squirm a good bit and it was more evident with them vs street tires so keep that in mind. It wasnt enough to cut into the tire or make a smoke screen but I wanted to eliminate that rubbing so I picked up some 6" springs.
Unfortunately my version of my Ohlins would not fit a 6" spring. It was so close but I needed about another .5" of movement of the lower perch but my version has two separate threaded body sections vs it being one entire consistent threaded section. They are sitting on my work bench so I can snap a pic to show you what I mean if this doesnt make sense.
As for other variables, I too was on CDR plates(never swapped in my SSB design ones) set at max caster in conjunction with Perrin PRSR. Dont have ride heights off top of my head but was running around between 3.5 and 4 degrees up front with the eccentric in the -2 position.
Take a look at your Ohlins and see if you can fit a 6" spring. If you can that would be my pic but if not a 7" should also suffice. Hope this helps!
