Yes.

Based on Zack's G25-660 making mid-upper 500's on a built 2.0L with stock cams, Evo9.

So, larger turbo, more displacement, bigger cams, mid 600's in the mid 30psi range would be very cool. I expect/hope for it to make 400wtq in the low 4000's, if not by 4000rpm.

 

You sticking with stock ECU?

 

Yes

 

you can go do some figure 8's in a parking lot somewhere and speed up the diff break in process, but still have to baby the R&P gears though.

very curious to hear your opinion on ACD tunes now that your front and rear diffs work.

 

I thought about doing some figure 8s and speed it up but my brain said that would just muddy up the fluid quicker. And if I'm babying the R&Ps I'll just deal with it and have fun making people thing my car is broken.

And Im working with Aldo in AU to try some of his new things. He seems to have the best grasp right now on what the programming is trying to do. So hopefully we can make the ACD function as well as the VC at its best moments and better at its worst.

EDIT: I did have a thought today, I wonder if its worse to break in the diff slowly letting it pop or force it do be done faster with figure 8s on things like the axles.

 

what diff oil are you running. Stock rear diff oil is very quiet.

 

I grabbed the TRE recommended Redline 80w140 being something I could pick up easily locally. Can switch to something after I get the 500ish mile break-in done. 1000 mi is a pipe dream, that's months of driving for me in a proper SM car with my short commute.

 

Need to not just commute, just go drive the car...

You should leave the jnjtial oil in for 1000 miles. Jon uses a bunch moly assembly lube to help the gear break in. Better to keep that in there with fluid than change it early. The magnets do a plenty good job collecting any metal.

 

Sh*t I'm lucky to get 1k miles in RACING in, no way I can do more then 150? in DE days before you decide to just Send It. Becomes cost prohibitive.

 

The reccomendation for all plate diffs I have seen was figure 8's in parking lot... My drift friends used to do it all the time when running in new diffs..

 

Just cant win this week. 4th oil leak found, first one I can fully take blame for.

1st - Timing belt side leak. Thought was the motor mount bolt leaking even though I pulled and sealed it. Turned out to be the o-ring on the balance shaft cap was flat and super brittle. Must have accidentally used the original o-ring and not the new o-ring when swapping stub shafts on this motor build.

2nd - ACD line. the silver sealing washers (are they a soft steel or something?) suck. Put back on old copper washers, will get extras to just have spares.

3rd - ACD fill plug. Same silver washer (TRE provided...). Back to copper washers.

4th - Noticed another fluid that was a different color (Every fluid here is a different color, almost becomes a convenience to sourcing the leak). Trans fluid from between the T-case and Trans. Only 2 things that can be, and 90% chance its the small O-ring. Separated the T-case last night after putting back together timing belt side and ring is pinched half in the oil port.

I apparently only hand tightened the two upper bolt on the front/top. Broke my own rule of never fully hand tighten without actually tightening cause you cant visually see if you missed something. Oh well, **** happens. Just gotta get back in there and fix it.

And the fun part, mitsu doesn't seem to use any common O-ring sizes. They're all just a little bit odd.

T-case small O-ring. M2x11 (15mm OD)
BS Plug O-ring: M2.5x25 (30mm OD)

 

The silver washers as aluminum, I prefer them for them drain and fill plugs because they don't chew into the aluminum case. On the ACD banjo I use copper. Never had any leak from either and they all get torqued to spec.

Did you use the big, extra thick, oring for the tcase fluid transfer port that TRE provides? I've never had an issue with that one. The tiny stock one however has dislodged on me during install a time or too. Nothing like redoing that after finishing a clutch job.

 

Mine just started dripping from what looks like the t-case-trans oring. It's never been apart.

Debating on fixing or waiting till I finally throw a tcase in it.

 

I did use TREs and I would put that one back in but it died. That was def my fault missing those two bolts. T-case must have pulled away just slightly enough to let it break free. I did like the bigger o-ring TRE gives but I've had good luck on the OEM o-ring too. Just going to have to use some grease to get it to stay in place when I install it.

 

i put a dab of grease on mine stops it from moving about n falling out.