Idk what you mean by "trick stuff" but a 94mm crank is hardly trick anymore.

 

Good news is I made the final decision on a 2.2. He's very well versed in 4G63s and 4G64s, he just likes building what he likes building and has been very successful at it. He's an awesome dude and he's taking very good care of me.

 

Was originally gonna stick with the stock 100mm crank and do a long rod 2.4 but he ran some great ideas by me and convinced me to do the destroked billet Callies crank. My best friend got me hooked up with his engine builder so I have total trust. I've been waiting to build this car for ****ing ever (original owner here) and am SO damn excited for it to finally be happening.

How long have you been running the Callies and what engine setup?

 

Good stuff, the 2.2l is my favorite build but the 2.4 build was a close second. Both based on 2.4 blocks. I had a 2.3 that broke a crank and I was always worried about reving it and of course thats the block the crank broke (Dont use OEM 100mm cranks!).

 

I'm sure he's good at what he does. But some guy get stuck in their ways and don't explore new combinations.

So you don't need 159mm rods. Just go with 156mm rods, and CP has a compression higher in their shelf piston options that work. Make sure you get wrist pins that are at least .220" wall.

 

Yeah, running with 156mm rods and going 10:1 compression. Thanks for the info.

 

The 94mm crank was not at all the "trick stuff" I was referring to that I was going to do. That was more in coatings, custom pistons and rods, etc. But I'm now in garden variety carillo rods and JE fsr pistons.

The looong back order on eagle cranks really set me back many months. Before I finally switched to the callies which I got in like 2 weeks. I finally got my block back couple months ago but now it's winter so haven't run it yet....

 

Most coatings are really over rated unless it the the hard plating or hard anodizing that wiseco does. The spray on ceramic stuff usually comes off in short order..

 

Interesting interview with an old 4G63 Rallycross engine builder. Some very interesting points in the video.

He says the 4G63 deck flexes too much at higher pressures, so they used a 12mm steel deck plate on top of the deck.

He also claims that overtightening high strength head studs can be counterproductive.

Maybe most surprising was his claim that stacking two headgaskets on top of each other worked better than O-ringing the block.

 

I think Id listen to the half mile guys making double that power on what it takes to keep the head sealed.

 

Torquing the head on top of oil control rings seems very..... unscientific to gauge distortion.

Would be interesting to see what type of timing they're trying to shove into these things at 4k rpm to make the torque since they're inlet restricted and won't make HP out the top.

 

truth be told a 600 hp rallycros engine that runs full on ALS is a pretty nasty piece of equipment

One of the tricks used by hillclimb teams was to cut thin channels in block or head that run from near the cylinder, right next to the water jackets and straight to the outside... so even if the head lifts a bit you basically provide a channel for the gasses to get out without running into the water jacket.. supposedly it worked a treat on the saab pikes peak cars.. ..

 

So I have a slim fan to install and drop the weight of the stock tank. Any of ya'll use them flimsy plastic ties that go thru the fins with any success? They seem like they'll just pull on the fins over time and eventually come loose if not break something.

Im thinking of skipping installing it for now and just move that weight to the trunk when I relocate things.

 

They tend to eventually break the radiator.

Are you running and aluminum rad or stocker?

 

Thats sorta what I thought I would do looking at whats actually holding it on. I have a stock radiator but will be relocating it to the back soon, will probably just pick up something different to replace it then.