Finishing up the forged hks 7460 kai build for a friend. This car uses my block that I drilled and welded on a 12AN vent. So I built a oil separator with interior baffles that drains back to the block. Used some nice plastic sheet to form up a air box and finished the intake piping. The ETS intake went to the bin, apart from the silicone elbow. The local powder coater has some nice rough finish available.. almost crackle finish, so I used that on the intake..




from the "nothing to do with motorsport" file... The clear plastic film that is installed on the doors got ripped apart when we took the doors apart, so I managed to find this stuff made by Foerch in germany. Self adhesive thin foam made for just this purpose.. Adds a bit of sound insulation and doesnt weighh anything.. almost..

 

I'll take this as a wake up call to change my timing belt and count my blessings that I made it this far. Years ago, Dave Buschur advised me to go by miles not time, but I think I may have taken that a bit too far. My timing belt has about 11k miles on it but is much more than 5 years old. Would you all recommend changing the tensioner pulley, idler pulley and water pump while I'm in there? I definitely will change the timing belt, balancer belt, and hydaulic tensioner with new OEM parts. My car has about 25k miles on it, but it is essentially a track and autocross car. Never has been a daily for me and I'm the original owner. The most exciting part of this whole job will be tracking down a long time slow oil leak coming from behind the timing cover...grrr!

Thanks!

 

If they've never been done, I'd do them. They're 15yrs old...lol

 

Usually I dont change the water pump, but recently I did a belt change on a low mileage e9 MR and on closer inspection found the water pump to be leaking... so yeah, do them all..

 

So my blown head winter project has now turned into a fully built 2.1 4G64 winter project. Goodbye money.

 

Please build a 2.2

 

Unless the cost of a good billet crank is out of the question, then Id stick with the OEM 88mm. I just dont trust the ~800 cranks. Seen too many posted broken. But I could be wrong, there might be one that's good

But, 2.2 w/ 4g64 block... My favorite combo also.

 

The eagle forged crank is fantastic. $625. ER runs the 88mm at 1400whp, hasn't broken it. I've had the 100mm in a 2.4LR car that does 180 in the 1/2 mile (6466, 870whp) for 2 years now. And the 94mm is in my car, and in another 2.2L car with a 6466 that has run 9's for the last 3 years making 800whp+ spinning 9400 and the owner beats the **** out of it. Goes to test and tune and will make 10-15 hits in a day, racing in "mexico", 2 IFO's a year, drives it to work 2-3 times a week, etc...

I'd honeslty take the Eagle forged over any of the billets options from a strength stand point..

 

Thats good to know the Eagle is solid. After the cost of breaking a 100mm OEM (yeah, we know its weak) I splurged on the K1 billet per Myles/Aaron recommendations.

But I guess If I blow it up again, I'll downsize to the Eagle since cost is about 1/3rd.

 

The K1 is a good option, especially since you are looking to save all the weight off the front that you can. But given results, I don't think its "needed" from a strength perspective.

FWIW, I went with the eagle in my car on Aaron's recommendation. As well as the 2.2/6466 car. And the 2.4LR/6466 car, that's an actually an ER motor. I didn't build that one.

 

I think I remember it being something like 7lbs lighter for the K1. Been a while since I thought about it, engine has been alive for 2.5years!

 

That's right around your $100-150/lb weight savings ratio you're currently at lol

 

I'm talking to builder specifically about this. I originally wanted a long rod 2.4 but he's convinced me to destroke. Since we're throwing a billet Callies crank in it I suggested the 94mm but he's swearing the 88mm will be better for longevity. Also, he generally only builds 2.0 and 2.1 engines. I'm gonna talk to him again today about it.

 

Sounds like he's not really up to date on the current combos for this engine.

 

Callies is what I have also and I think it's great that they're now an option at a good price compared to k1/eagle. Some engine builders are pretty set in their ways. I was hoping to do a lot of trick stuff on my build but my engine builder talked me down to something more sensible.