When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i'm inching my way there - 3pts and airbags still in the car. finally swapping the cat for a resonated test pipe now that i trailer the car nearly everywhere except for local autox. easing into it.
Since I just bought this MR. My winter projects are all fluids.
i can't wait for the stimulus check to come in, then I can start with hardpipes and possibly exhaust.
Awaiting new rear sub-frame I hacked up rear of car and bumper. Tucking the exhaust up high, then figure out a rear diffuser set up. Ill be down about 55lbs with new rear sub-frame. New 2.2 from RS motors is enroute.
Or just the seat and sliders/rail. To complicate (maybe) matters, I don't have the stock seat rails - I have the binary engineering lowering brackets. I installed all this myself a while ago but I don't know how aftermarket stuff goes together.
based on the image of the bride seat rail (different one, may be sturdier), i think it should bolt directly to the car and I wouldn't need a planted seat bracket?
You need the brackets that bolt to the floor, OE or lowering ones, and you can mount the seat side mount plates directly to that.. .if you do not need adjustment capability..
Or just the seat and sliders/rail. To complicate (maybe) matters, I don't have the stock seat rails - I have the binary engineering lowering brackets. I installed all this myself a while ago but I don't know how aftermarket stuff goes together.
based on the image of the bride seat rail (different one, may be sturdier), i think it should bolt directly to the car and I wouldn't need a planted seat bracket?
Unless you really need the sliders, I would skip them and mount the seat directly to a bracket bolted to the floor. I purchased the same Bride seat rails that you are looking at years ago and promptly sold them when I saw how high they positioned the seat. Sliders also compromise the safety of the seat. Whether you need side mount depends on whether the seat has holes on the bottom. Some seats have both side and bottom holes. My current Sparco passenger seat is mounted from the bottom only but my drivers seat is side mounted. My seat brackets also are closer to the floor than those Planted ones. You want the seat to be bolted as low as possible for maximum adjustability and helmet clearance. Since you are already using lowering brackets on the stock front seat, I think you are going to be unhappy with sliders.
Unless you really need the sliders, I would skip them and mount the seat directly to a bracket bolted to the floor. I purchased the same Bride seat rails that you are looking at years ago and promptly sold them when I saw how high they positioned the seat. Sliders also compromise the safety of the seat. Whether you need side mount depends on whether the seat has holes on the bottom. Some seats have both side and bottom holes. My current Sparco passenger seat is mounted from the bottom only but my drivers seat is side mounted. My seat brackets also are closer to the floor than those Planted ones. You want the seat to be bolted as low as possible for maximum adjustability and helmet clearance. Since you are already using lowering brackets on the stock front seat, I think you are going to be unhappy with sliders.
yea i was looking into that - seems the buddy club sliders (not the brides) will let you get the seat pretty darn low. i dont think i need sliders, but i'm just retaining in the off chance that I do. from what i've seen - i dont need both the slider brackets & the bottom mount, as I previously asked. just the slider mounts + side mounts.
yea i was looking into that - seems the buddy club sliders (not the brides) will let you get the seat pretty darn low. i dont think i need sliders, but i'm just retaining in the off chance that I do. from what i've seen - i dont need both the slider brackets & the bottom mount, as I previously asked. just the slider mounts + side mounts.
I have buddy club slider on driver side and the slider itself is pretty crap, as are pretty much all aftermarket sliders. You have to really ensure they are bolted in parallel or they bind up terribly when sliding .
I just had one go bad, tab that holds location on one side broke so it wouldnt latch. I have two new sets ordered (left and right) but they wont ship from manufacturer till end of Jan. Ok for me cause winter mods, but may not be for you.
I do also have a Bride rail which is much nicer and mounts the two sliders together on a frame so they'll always be parallel. But it doesnt work for my particular sparco (has a weird mount, its an inch wider in the front than the rear) and I have custom brackets to attach to it. Just couldnt get it to work with this seat.
I have buddy club slider on driver side and the slider itself is pretty crap, as are pretty much all aftermarket sliders. You have to really ensure they are bolted in parallel or they bind up terribly when sliding .
I just had one go bad, tab that holds location on one side broke so it wouldnt latch. I have two new sets ordered (left and right) but they wont ship from manufacturer till end of Jan. Ok for me cause winter mods, but may not be for you.
I do also have a Bride rail which is much nicer and mounts the two sliders together on a frame so they'll always be parallel. But it doesnt work for my particular sparco (has a weird mount, its an inch wider in the front than the rear) and I have custom brackets to attach to it. Just couldnt get it to work with this seat.
my car's in storage right now, so no rush on my end as well. I did like the bride's design better, exactly for the reason you mentioned - but, from googling I read it would mount the seat as high as stock (at least for the Evo X's) which is what I'm trying to avoid. The buddy clubs are also lighter I assume. if anything I think the passenger's side is fine without a slider - any particular reason you ordered them for both sides?
Awaiting new rear sub-frame I hacked up rear of car and bumper. Tucking the exhaust up high, then figure out a rear diffuser set up. Ill be down about 55lbs with new rear sub-frame. New 2.2 from RS motors is enroute.
More pics under the car once you get it back in the air. Curious how it all comes out. Who's exhaust and who's subframe are you using?
random question - can you make a tune hold an RPM rather than bounce off the rev limiter? i.e., my mini would hold the rev flat at 6.5k instead of bouncing. it may need to be dbw to do that though i assume. i don't bounce off the rev limiter a lot if ever but i imagine it's going to be more common on e85 now
random question - can you make a tune hold an RPM rather than bounce off the rev limiter? i.e., my mini would hold the rev flat at 6.5k instead of bouncing. it may need to be dbw to do that though i assume. i don't bounce off the rev limiter a lot if ever but i imagine it's going to be more common on e85 now
I don’t think that’s possible. Are you thinking of autocrossing situations? On track, if you can’t tell when you are close to the limiter, maybe a sequential shift light is in order.
Not possible without DBW. The mini is closing the throttle blade to maintain rpm. The solution is to simply roll out of the throttle a bit so its not slamming the limiter as hard.
I don’t think that’s possible. Are you thinking of autocrossing situations? On track, if you can’t tell when you are close to the limiter, maybe a sequential shift light is in order.
just moments on track where it's not enough to shift but also don't want to sit on the limiter. i can just roll off the throttle as suggested