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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 12:53 PM
  #1951  
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Legacy obd is totally useless for anything that changes faster than 1sec interval. I got it to try and get TPS but it was useless
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 12:54 PM
  #1952  
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If you want to try mine I can just send it to you.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 08:17 AM
  #1953  
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Shoulda waited for me to remove my DL1 with ALL sensors lol.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 11:27 AM
  #1954  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
If you want to try mine I can just send it to you.
Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that for a couple weeks some day when I'm testing configurations. Sounds like it's not worth the effort though.

I always forget that official OBDII commands are significantly slower than Mitsubishi's MUT protocol.
Originally Posted by Balrok
Shoulda waited for me to remove my DL1 with ALL sensors lol.
What are you replacing it with?
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 08:23 PM
  #1955  
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curious - for those on oem brembos - how often are you having to do a rebuild due to whatever complication? i'm winding up rebuilding annually now, starts with the dust boot turning to crusty garbage which leads to various complications. this time, it's a stuck piston. annually for me is about 4-6 track days and a handful of autocrosses.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 08:50 PM
  #1956  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
curious - for those on oem brembos - how often are you having to do a rebuild due to whatever complication? i'm winding up rebuilding annually now, starts with the dust boot turning to crusty garbage which leads to various complications. this time, it's a stuck piston. annually for me is about 4-6 track days and a handful of autocrosses.
Annual dust boots on my ct9a calipers. I now have Ti shims, so we'll see how that goes.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 08:54 PM
  #1957  
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Originally Posted by kaj
Annual dust boots on my ct9a calipers. I now have Ti shims, so we'll see how that goes.
i always use ti shims, hasn't mattered much.

when you say annual dust boots, you are just replacing the dust boots themselves? have you tried racing brakes high temp ones? i did once but a leaky piston disintegrated them.
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #1958  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
i always use ti shims, hasn't mattered much.

when you say annual dust boots, you are just replacing the dust boots themselves? have you tried racing brakes high temp ones? i did once but a leaky piston disintegrated them.
​​​​​​
haven't tried those because I was being a cheapskate on my last rebuild (swapping to X calipers after, anyway). Maybe next time.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 07:10 AM
  #1959  
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Originally Posted by Construct
Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that for a couple weeks some day when I'm testing configurations. Sounds like it's not worth the effort though.

I always forget that official OBDII commands are significantly slower than Mitsubishi's MUT protocol.

What are you replacing it with?
Full AiM with MXS1.2 dash
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 12:13 PM
  #1960  
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Originally Posted by kaj
​​​​​​
haven't tried those because I was being a cheapskate on my last rebuild (swapping to X calipers after, anyway). Maybe next time.
gonna give then another try.

re: the rebuild itself - what do you use to blow the pistons out in terms of an adapter for the brake fluid line? i really should get a compressor..
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 12:19 PM
  #1961  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
gonna give then another try.

re: the rebuild itself - what do you use to blow the pistons out in terms of an adapter for the brake fluid line? i really should get a compressor..
Vacuum line and the air-gun thingy on my air compressor. Getting the pistons out was the hardest part for me. Once one is out, there is no way to pressurize the others I don't remember how I got the rest out, actually. It's been a while.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 12:22 PM
  #1962  
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Originally Posted by kaj
Vacuum line and the air-gun thingy on my air compressor. Getting the pistons out was the hardest part for me. Once one is out, there is no way to pressurize the others I don't remember how I got the rest out, actually. It's been a while.
how dangerous would it be to pop them out while on the car, removing the rotor & SLOWLY pressing on the brakes until nearly out with wood in between? then disconnect etc as normal. I guess that leaves the possibility of spraying brake fluid all over the place?
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 12:30 PM
  #1963  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
how dangerous would it be to pop them out while on the car, removing the rotor & SLOWLY pressing on the brakes until nearly out with wood in between? then disconnect etc as normal. I guess that leaves the possibility of spraying brake fluid all over the place?
IIRC, they pop out with some force, once they clear the seals. I would NOT want to clean that mess up
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 12:31 PM
  #1964  
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Picked up a new toy at auction:



While FAE is getting a heart transplant, wife spotted this last week . Tons if little issues, wasn't taken very good care of (to my standard). Had a e85 map and overall shady tune feels like, full Ti exhaust, ams widemouth and ams intake. Unknown coils atm. Stupid wide RPF's even for a X, with WORK alum lugs that have a 7 spline key I had to order. And 275 NT05's that are worse for wear, streached quite a bit. As usual no fender liners and no front undertray lol. Spent the whole weekend washing, claying, buffing and more buffing before I did a ceramic coat. Fae never gets these treatments lol. I also spotted a metric ton of grease an oil caked all around the area under the water pump. Not sure on that yet. Then 3rd grinds impossibly bad and the clutch is a bit worn. Lots of work to do haha.

First X. I assume in order to read the X tephra tunes you have to pay the 100 bucks to get the XML's?

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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 12:51 PM
  #1965  
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Congrats on the new project! I've been thinking about starting another...
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