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gotcha that will save some cash then. unless the level 2 will save an extra replacement down the line? they do see launches and heat.. wonder if they'll have a level 1 if I contact them
No it will not.
What is even wrong with your original axles? Something tells me they probably just need boots.
I have DSS "racing" front's or level 2 or whatever their called, and stock rears. I have a set of front OEM's but the threads need repaired once i get around to putting them in the spare bin. Hell no I'm not selling them
@Dallas J or @ayoustin - Did you guys develop a radial mount bracket for the Wilwood Aero6 caliper? I remember seeing a prototype on Instagram somewhere.
Wilwood makes a bracket for their older Superlite6 (FNSL6) caliper on the Evo, but the new Aero6 caliper has different radial mount dimensions (7.09" on the Aero6, 5.98" on the Superlite6).
An Aero6 setup with their 14.25" rotors (362mm) looks promising and reasonably priced. Front brake bias would be 104% of stock by my calculations. The bracket is the only missing piece.
@Dallas J or @ayoustin - Did you guys develop a radial mount bracket for the Wilwood Aero6 caliper? I remember seeing a prototype on Instagram somewhere.
Wilwood makes a bracket for their older Superlite6 (FNSL6) caliper on the Evo, but the new Aero6 caliper has different radial mount dimensions (7.09" on the Aero6, 5.98" on the Superlite6).
An Aero6 setup with their 14.25" rotors (362mm) looks promising and reasonably priced. Front brake bias would be 104% of stock by my calculations. The bracket is the only missing piece.
Yeah, I made this for Ken Thwaits Evo cause they wanted something custom. I also made a radial mount upright body, one for Austin and Aero6 and one for me with the Superlite6.
Yea I ran my radial mount uprights last season. They worked most fantastically. I wouldn't freak out about running a larger rotor for the sake of balancing bias. With the ~8% change I have I can hardly tell a difference on track. Stick with stock rotors or X rotors, use the saved money for more seat time.
I just picked up a daily driver/sth car/track ***** - a 2013 VW Golf R. planning to use this car to gather up the seat time without risking the Evo again, so when I do drive the Evo, I won't feel too out of place, and will have track insurance on it. This car is a bit of a beater but it's in good shape and clean. I'm not worried about not driving the car in the salt or anything like that, just going to send it. Bought the car used, but the car's got a "stage 2" on it which is basically intake, dp, exhaust, intercooler, hpfp. pretty excited to rock this car while I continue to fix up the evo's odd quirks (still haven't diagnosed the popping, school has started back up and it's freezing out). mark 6's go for pretty damn cheap when you get into the higher mileage range.
Rebuild head. Timing belt decided to change itself while I was driving. Still haven't pulled head but pulled turbo and can see bits of valve in two cylinders and also entering the exhaust manifold. Planning on sending head to Curt Brown. Planning on sending my intake manifold as well for 65mm port and sending throttle body to mil.spec for porting and new seals. If there's damage to any cylinders or pistons I'll likely be building a 2.4lr to swap in as well. Also need to fix my exhaust now since the rear hanger gave out while I was pulling my downpipe.
Finally got it apart. Here's the worst of the damage...
Multiple bent valves, pretty much all of them. The completely snapped one was embedded in the head (you can see the nice shiny spot in the first pic). Timing belt snapped, thought it just came off somehow. No idea why it snapped.
That's pretty severe. Like, the piston that broke the valve off isn't going to be in good shape. I would pull the pan and inspect rod bearings at min, but I'd still be hesitant to move forward with the short block with that piston like that.
How may miles on the timing belt? How many years old? Replacing interval is 5yrs or 60k. Most people don't know or understand the 5yrs part.
That's pretty severe. Like, the piston that broke the valve off isn't going to be in good shape. I would pull the pan and inspect rod bearings at min, but I'd still be hesitant to move forward with the short block with that piston like that.
How may miles on the timing belt? How many years old? Replacing interval is 5yrs or 60k. Most people don't know or understand the 5yrs part.
yep at the very least you need 2 pistons. id say youd prob want to bore those cylinders if theres any marks or wear at all on the bores. if u gotta get 2 pistons anyway may aswell just forge em haha
yep at the very least you need 2 pistons. id say youd prob want to bore those cylinders if theres any marks or wear at all on the bores. if u gotta get 2 pistons anyway may aswell just forge em haha
Can't bore/hone 2 cylinders. On a low use race engine, a very quick refresh gone/deglaze and reringing and/or replacing the piston in one cylinder is ok, but not on something higher mileage.
Originally Posted by Construct
Thanks for that reminder. I don't put a lot of miles on the Evo any more, so I'll set a calendar alert. Good to know.
I only remember because I went though the maintenance stuff when I first got my car in 2013, and it only had 11k miles on it lol. So it jumped out at me like, holy **** do this now.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jan 23, 2020 at 12:02 AM.
Can't biotechs 2 cylinders. On a low use race engine, honing and reringing one cylinder is ok, but not on something higher mileage.
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Tell that to monster jam guys. My coworker rebuilds tons of their motors and I can confidently say it's the jankiest 2500hp I've ever heard of. Blocks with 5-6 different sized cylinders. Some cylinders have been sleeved multiple times while others have never been sleeved. Decks sometimes shaved, sometimes not. Mixed fastener sizes for head studs because of failed time serts or helicoils if they're extra cheap. Short of the block splitting in half, which does happen lol, they'll always keep rebuilding **** with minimal effort and cost.
