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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 07:19 AM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
The only true disadvantage of a wet sump setup is pump cavitation and aeration of the oil, both of which can be remedied to a degree. There are some extremely fast time attack cars here in the states that are still on wet sumps and don't have oiling issues.
What's the current consensus on easy-button oil pan solutions? Racefab?
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 07:23 AM
  #407  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
My solution was put the exhaust out the side of the bumper so I can make an oil pan of any design. There's other ways to skin the cat, I just wanted something simple and light, now my exhaust is 2ft long and weighs in right at 5lbs from turbo to "tailpipe" lol
I quite like that solution, but for another reason (my subframe)... Unfortunately not street legal over here. BTW, WRC evo's sometimes had the turbo turned 180 deg with the exhaust running over the gearbox. However, this is not feasible with stock transfer boxes unfortunately..
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 07:25 AM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by Construct
What's the current consensus on easy-button oil pan solutions? Racefab?
Well baffled sump with extra capacity will lessen the issue of right hand corners simply by having a reservoar of oil during the time when you basically have no oil returning to the sump (high G right hander). Having said that, high end builds with aero, slicks and $$$ engines should have a dry sump. After all, it will protect the investment and bring extra HP.
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 11:52 AM
  #409  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin


Disadvantages are you can't control pressure, you're more likely to run into cavitation issues, and it can be tricky to assemble the pan and make a connection to feed the stock pump.

The only true disadvantage of a wet sump setup is pump cavitation and aeration of the oil, both of which can be remedied to a degree. There are some extremely fast time attack cars here in the states that are still on wet sumps and don't have oiling issues.

Personally, I'll be staying on a wet sump because I don't want the extra weight and complexity of having a second belt and a bunch more oil lines and finding space for an oil tank. I have an idea for a pretty killer wetsump setup that should be damn near bulletproof but the cost will only be like $1000 less than a dry sump which I think would push pretty much anyone else away.

I'll be curious to see Kiki's results for sure. I've not seen anyone use the acc belt to drive an oil pump so that'll be interesting.
"Only $1,000"
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 01:10 PM
  #410  
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$1000 for a solution thats proven to hold pressure on right handers? I'll take one! Tho I dont think his solution will work if he required a side exit exhaust to do it. My exhaust has to exit behind rear tires.
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 04:09 PM
  #411  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
$1000 for a solution thats proven to hold pressure on right handers? I'll take one! Tho I dont think his solution will work if he required a side exit exhaust to do it. My exhaust has to exit behind rear tires.
That was $1000 less than a dry sump, not $1000 absolute value.

I made the same mistake on first read.
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 04:42 PM
  #412  
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Originally Posted by Construct
That was $1000 less than a dry sump, not $1000 absolute value.

I made the same mistake on first read.
I think he means it's worth an extra $1,000 for a dry sump, to be sure it works as intended....?
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 09:02 PM
  #413  
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Yes, a dry sump would be ~$1000 more than what I'm formulating. If you made a pan like Zach's you wouldn't need a bumper exit.
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 08:37 PM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Tho I dont think his solution will work if he required a side exit exhaust to do it. My exhaust has to exit behind rear tires.
who says you can't do a side exit exhaust in SM?

Originally Posted by solo rule 3.3.3.16
Exhaust must exit behind the driver or exit to the side of the car.

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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 08:57 PM
  #415  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
who says you can't do a side exit exhaust in SM?

Hmm, I my brain must have combined some SP rules or something. Should probably give myself another run through of the rules.
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 10:03 PM
  #416  
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This video of Robert Thorne's anti-lag system with overlaid gauges is fascinating: https://www.facebook.com/robert.thorneracing/videos/vb.1085970339/10207983826608601/?type=2&theater
Now who's going to be the first Evo owner to try the external combustion chamber anti-lag system?
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 10:19 PM
  #417  
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There was a fastrack on this for solo IIRC, something about ignition post combustion. I'll need to dig for it but if my recollection is right it was band for SCCA stuff. Super cool stuff tho. It was like 2017 I think I was listening from home about the "rocket motor"

Edit: Quick search turned up nothing, anyone else recall seeing info on this?

Last edited by Dallas J; Mar 21, 2019 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 10:32 PM
  #418  
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Originally Posted by Construct
This video of Robert Thorne's anti-lag system with overlaid gauges is fascinating: https://www.facebook.com/robert.thor...type=2&theater

Now who's going to be the first Evo owner to try the external combustion chamber anti-lag system?
That would be so fun on an AX course!
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 10:46 PM
  #419  
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I have no doubt this would all work and all if u put enough effort and all into it.

but why! Just buy a bolt on drysump kit n be done with it. Ull have it installed in 3hrs and plumb some lines to a tank and boom ur done.

i can almost guarantee it will be cheaper too once u take into account the cost and ur time and hours mucking around trying to make it work.

seems like a whole lot of time n effort when theres already a perfectly good solution off the shelf
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 09:35 AM
  #420  
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Came up with an interesting detail you wouldn't think about till trying to make the biggest rubber fit. I had to trim my bumper far enough that it cuts through half the fender mounting flange which goes to a support bracket. That bracket is pretty important if you want your headlight and fender to not flop around. I had to clear everything out around there to get the car both low and wide-tired. The trick I found, cut the weldnut off the bracket and it can flip left/right. Works perfect, and fender/bumper/headlight are completely rigid now.

Ignore the tiny tires, those are just 265 RE71s for driving to the track. Currently 315s fit at full droop and bump at full steering. But a bit more work will have to be done on the 335s I think. Either new shocks, or something custom to get an extra inch of clearance to the spring perch on the Flags may also be needed.




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