Which bushing?

For the FSB, did you up the RSB to match?

 

TRE does such a good job. The internals are on point with all the extra work he does (magnaflux, shot peening, gear detailing and tooth profiling) vs just slamming parts together, shimming it, and shipping it with a fresh extra thick coat of silver rattle can paint. Hi stuff look better than new parts when they come out of the box. Soda blasted and all freshly zinc coated bolts. Literally no one else compares to the quality product/work he sends out.

 

this bushing: https://www.maperformance.com/produc...-8-9-spf2489k?

not to fix noise, just wanted to replace the WL steering bushing. Separate from this, whenever we would align toe on the front end, it would move/kink the steering wheel so straight wasn't straight. everything else tight, so I'd like to redo this bushing as it's the only one that changed.

Yes, upped the RSB from WL's 24mm stiff to their 26mm med. It will still get loose, but IDK, I guess I just don't like the feel of the FSB? Technically it should have balanced out, but I think I could go soft on the 26 and go back to stock - current is the Tanabe hollow FSB.

 

Ah, the rack mount bushings.

What was different with the FSB? More push tendency? Or turn in not as sharp? Or...?

 

There is definitely point of having things too stiff for the front (any end of the car in fact). And, main contributors for that are swaybars and springs (leave shocks/struts out of this for now). The only way where it is beneficial to go heave on the bars is for classes where you are not allowed to modify your springs. Stock/Street SCCA classes are the best example of that. Increasing bar stiffness there is done mainly because it is the only allowed mode to be done.

When you have an option to modify both springs and bars, similar results could be achieved on both end of this and anywhere in the middle (going very stiff with springs and mild bars vs. heavy bars and softer springs). I think the final decision is usually done with the way individuals like their cars to behave. In any case, results are good when balance is right! When it is too stiff or too soft, it only means that you still have more work to do!

 

more push tendency certainly. obviously the rsb counters that but it's still not as sharp, feels somehow like there's more drag in the front when turning that's regardless of how stiff u make the rear. car turns in fine esp with trailing but if you're off the brakes or on the power just isn't very neutral/wanting to change directions, IMO. Some of this is compared to the m3 which has much, much better inherent balance - the m3 isn't as sharp, but it just doesn't fight me to make a turn. the balance is different but i'd like to be able to at least get a little closer, stock FSB may help with it.

here's the same corner in both cars - it's a corner that you can't exactly trail in, and obviously i entered the previous corner differently in both cars, but:

https://youtu.be/gH9UAscUOYQ?t=78

https://youtu.be/VUz6aYhMWr8?t=68

driving can and is adjusted for this corner specifically and obviously not perfect driving but i feel like the evo should be able to turn through it a little better than the M3. It leads on to a big straight and I usually have to back off to get the turn completed there. maybe i'll switch back for a year to stock, and see how it feels. springs are 8/11 so i'm on the softer side but the balance feels pretty good for track.

 

You really don't have enough spring to warrant the bigger bar. Springs and bars are on of those things that need to be matched with each other. To far apart and they make the car weird.

 

I'm not even gonna read thru the above stuff. Unless you are trying to run very street friendly rates, stock front bar 100%. If you are running like 10k front springs then maybe upgrade it if you have too much roll.

Stock front bar and WL 24 or 26mm is a good option. The step from 24 stiff is exactly one step below 26 soft (I measured these numbers dangling weights from a bar on my car with an indicator)

 

all the Bosch MED ecus (and most modern ecus) are torque based. Aka, completely different than mitsubishi.

so yes, colder air, less boost for same calculated torque.

Same reason there are 20 new threads of “omg I hit boost cut, did I break thangs?!??” Every.single.winter.here

 

interesting. so Evo will hit more torque when cold (less when hot) but a vw would add boost to a point to reach the same torque?

 

Pretty much every modern ecu is load based. Load = torque. Load is just an arbitrary calculated number by the ecu based off spark advance, cam timing, cylinder air mass, fuel mass (or injector duty cycle) and affected by any multiplier tables for safety like barometric pressure, any measured temperature on the engine, or feedback from the knock sensor etc.

 

I think you meant that the VW will reduce the amount of boost to remain at target load and yes, that is correct. Pretty cool.

 

boost control in MED ecus are all torque based. Very complicated. Fun to tune.

 

Here is a 3rd gear log from my VW if you are curious: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/alltra...6&zoom=212-432

 

Are you sure that's all traced directly back to the whiteline bushing? It barely does anything as a bushing in the first place.