Also hit up Chris Barnett on Facebook. He part Evo's out and has usually had whatever I needed.

 

There's an evo roller for sale for 7k with most of the drivetrain in it on the market here. I'd be willing to help you tow it up from FL where it's at in exchange for some parts off it.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/756340

 

Oooo, always wanted to build a red one...take it with the haltec at 7800, sell the rear axels to Bee cause the dudes desperate I'll even host the part pulling party here in Atlanta. Wife says you have to like dogs if you wanna stay the night lol.

 

At some point, if you really want a stock body, it might make more sense to strip the mods and sell the car as is, and then get another car. Just something to consider, especially if you’ve kept the stock parts and not invested in modding the chassis itself (cage, etc.).

 

probably not an option at my current resource level.

i'm collecting a bunch of parts from chris thanks to LGTD's suggestion but have one question:

i am going to look under the car to see what possibly is ****ed up there. The car drove fine yes, even tracked straight but there is pretty damn strong popping noise at full lock left. i don't know if that would be related to the frame being bent there, but is there anything specific i should look for to replace?

- control arm, bushing, toe arm, axle/cv joint? power steering line even, etc.?

 

I bit the bullet and purchased new OEM ones hahaha. happily take some spares tho. i could do with the diff mount hangers etc to be honest.

 

Its likely youve just busted a CV.

Easiest way and proper way would be to have somebody do a laser check for symmetry. Lazy way is just check the wheel alignment and if it seems pretty good then sweet. i guess u could set up a string line and make a square around some axle stands and measure the center of the hubs out and make sure its still square also.

Honestly i doubt youve bent anything. ive hit a tyre wall square on the nose at 60kmh and all it did was push the upper rad support back. except i was less lucky and smashed my radiator and intercooler and everything also. my cars still perfectly square.

 

If it was me, id buy a roller. take all the oem parts off that you need to make urs mint again. Keep ur car as it is and slowly build the roller up with a cage and widebody etc.

 

the body shop says it's likely i tweaked the upper support based on how the fender to door gap looks. so, there is some frame bending. he said nothing buckled, which is good. they seemed to think it was pretty minor, unibody designed that way, and they can just straighten it out.

they are gong to laser check the frame when the time comes, yes. I'm just collecting parts so i dont have to have the shop purchase the parts from the dealer right then and there. I'll check the cv joint, hopefully that is the cause of the popping.

 

Ouch Sam nooooo! Sorry to hear bud thats a huge bummer but glad youre OK!

Judging from the pics youre at close to 10k on the front end alone. Add in rear quarter and there is a good chunk of change hiding under there as well. Couple notes...the clickign noise is prob a CV. Boot is probably ripped from the incident so thats no biggie. Our cars are a unibody so its not really bent frame per se. The vehicle needs to be put on a frame machine and measured with lasers and pulls made if needbe.

Rad core support is most certainly tweaked. Cut that out and weld in new one. Rear quarter should probably be cut out and replaced as well.

It sucks bc your car was so clean but being that youre not going through insurance perhaps finding a clean roller makes the most sense. Drop in your parts and off to the races.

 

@heel2toe yea that's about right $-wise as a quote i got from an top notch auto body shop yest. working on the used parts for now. is the rad core support = upper tie bar (MR592164, pic below)? is more of a very loud pop vs a clicking, but yea i'm assuming the cv boot.

shop did mention the car is unibody so not as big of a deal, vs an actual bent frame. it will be put on a frame machine and put back in shape, but it's heartbreaking man i tell you. so much time effort and $ built into the car. expecting to find more $, yea. and this doesn't even include the headlights, which got hit hard. the tabs on the driver's side broken clean off, ouch. i can't even get the hood open to get off the car right now.

 

Yeah that's it although didnt realize it was sold in multiple pieces like that; thought it was the whole assembly. As for part pricing OEM is $$$ so used marketplace will save you a ton. Otherwise hood 1k bumper 1k headlight 1k each etc etc which doesnt even take into account paint and body work. I would get a really good idea of what youre getting yourself into before you start pulling the trigger on parts.

I also still think from an economics perspective finding a roller is the way to go.

 

pita to find, thinking of everything to swap. i've got most of the parts for pretty cheap from chris@b&m, will save a huge chunk of cash there.

but yea, headlights... smh. brackets break and the headlight is toast, like what?

 

i have a pair of headlights i was going to list for sale locally. maybe make me an offer on them?

 

the shipping would prob make it as much as a new set unfortunately.

is there anything i need to consider about the car making power etc? probably should do a boost leak test i assume. car ran fine, started up like normal the next day. hopefully power levels don't change