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basically I was literally doing some slow laps, not even 7-10ths, with my student in the car going over the track layout. Irony is I planned to go so slow that I didn't even record - just cuz I planned for it to be a nothing session to get my student to see the track. Ultimately what happened was I was taking turn 1 on Autobahn Full, track was cold - mid to high 30s or low 40s, tires were cold - I let off for the turn and didn't think anything of it since I wasn't pushing the car - and then it overrotated and I didn't catch it. shoulda woulda coulda.
The car drove home 5 hours with no issue, even the alignment is still straight. but the bumper is destroyed and tossed, both fenders are ****ed. driver's headlight may be salvageable, but the tabs are broken so probably not. Intercooler looks okay, minor bends i'll have to fix.
As far as frame, it's a ?. Car still tracking straight doesn't mean too much, def some upper core support is bent up top. I'll talk to some body shops this week about the rear quarter panel to see if they can straighten it out to some degree - probably not though, it's completely mangled. may hhave to redo & bondo, idk. I'm gonna go with stock parts, as I did want to compete in street class for Gridlife. We'll see, honestly I'm at a loss. I don't really have the bank account to support a 5-7k repair, honestly im pretty devastated.
Damn dude I'm sorry this happened. That QP looks like its toast though. The wing is intact so I'm sure the car is salvageable. Glad your ok, cars fix easier then people.
Some of my closest calls have been on warmish cool down laps, particularly when I’m trying to cool down and come off but also not ruin someone else’s hot lap. It’s like most street accidents happening close to home, because your guard is down. Thanks for sharing. Many people wouldn’t.
Some of my closest calls have been on warmish cool down laps, particularly when I’m trying to cool down and come off but also not ruin someone else’s hot lap. It’s like most street accidents happening close to home, because your guard is down. Thanks for sharing. Many people wouldn’t.
the wings always survive lol. that's good to know re closest calls. my guard was completely down, not expecting it at all. not that this means anything, but when i'm running the car 10/10ths, i completely know what to expect, and even today the car has gone completely sideways and i catch it with ease without a second thought. this one, a total shock.
is going to the dealership just going to be the best way to get these parts, or will i be totally ripped off here? nothing in the FS or ebay
is going to the dealership just going to be the best way to get these parts, or will i be totally ripped off here? nothing in the FS or ebay
i’d join the various FB groups where people buy/sell Evo parts and part out cars. Strictly Modified DSM and EVO Used Parts is a big one. There are others too. Some people on FB part out Evos on a regular basis. Chris Barnett comes to mind. The dealership will be crazy expensive.
It's a crap shoot, most Mitsu dealerships are shady as f*** because lets face it it isn't a good selling brand so they don't get or pay for the talent. I'd take it to a motorsports focused bodyshop that can focus on the straightening properly and not bandaid it like most body shops. Luckily (with all the trunk interior out) there's some access to pound those out or they'll go old school and weld tabs to pull it out. Get it close and then wrap it or put like an APR rear wide body which covers pretty much all of that and bond it in, etc.
i visited the body shop to get a full-on estimate of, everything new, i assume they source from dealer, paint, etc. it's going to be 11.5k, not including any additional damage they find once they open it up, which there is sure to be. The car is making a popping at full lock left when I turn.
i'm ****ed. i'm going to slowly try to source some used parts, but otherwise this might be it for me.
This is an old and slow video, but about 8s is the section I spun at - like what? at which point your option is to gun it and hopefully shoot for the exit, with the risk of it snapping and you go head on into the second tirewall/barrier. Honestly I can't even fathom how I lost it here while going slowly on track.
sucks to see mate, honestly doesnt look that bad though.
New bumper - just go duraflex or aftermarket replica voltex or something if your worried about budget till you find a stock one.
front fenders- aftermarket again be cheap enough. otherwise should be able to find stock on a parted out evo. look on the classifieds on here.
rear quarter. a good panelbeater should be able to massage most of that out from the inside. if your budget conscious just get it popped back out best u can and send it till you can afford to fix. proper fix they will need to chop the panel out and make up a new one to go in there and weld in and paint. or if it pops out pretty good could just bog n paint the bits that still look bad
upper radiator panel- measure diagonally from a fixed point to the shock towers and see if its square still. when i stoved mine in on a tyre wall we just got the factory scissor jack and 2 blocks of wood. take manifold off. put 1 block on the head/block and then wind the jack out and it will push the radiator panel back square to where u want it with the piece of wood. its flimsy as **** its real easy to move.
I know it sucks and ur probably pissed at yourself but probably being a bit dramatic saying ur seasons done etc. dont beat urself up over it. it looks like u got off really light with just some panel damage. all the expensive bits are still perfect and u even drove it home.
Just remember you can fix the easy and cheap bits up now and sort the rest in winter. wait for bargains to pop up via part outs etc.
11k seems like a bull**** estimate too for the damage IMO. popping could be anything could just be a CV youve damaged etc. need to do a wheel alignment to see if its straight still.
Id go get a second opinion on it all. that estimate is major. surely you have some friends who are panelbeaters?
idk 12k + prob 2k for additional damage they find is a tough pill to swallow. i have to rebuild it to oem to compete in the series i want to compete in.
here's my quick lap from yesterday - just unfathomable that I let off the throttle in 1.
It's a tough decision. Rebuilding to OEM bodywork is more expensive then rebuilding to widebody/lightweight work. In those shoes I would simply look at "street comp" as dead and move up. You'll be faster, more comfortable, more confident, and cheaper repairs at the end of the day. I could have the dura wide body and a cage in that car for that price all day. At the end of the day you really geek out about the parts and build process, so just look at this as closing one chapter, and starting another chapter.
If the money is going to be make it or break it for you then I would suggest trying to do it cheaper then all new OEM. You can hit up a dismantler and probably get all the body stuff your going to need. They can cut a QP off of a donor car and send that to you vs buying OEM. The other body parts could be sourced on forums and what not. For example, I got a hood a few months back for a couple hundred. Also looking for a roller in good condition might actually end up being cheaper then fixing this one.
If the money is going to be make it or break it for you then I would suggest trying to do it cheaper then all new OEM. You can hit up a dismantler and probably get all the body stuff your going to need. They can cut a QP off of a donor car and send that to you vs buying OEM. The other body parts could be sourced on forums and what not. For example, I got a hood a few months back for a couple hundred. Also looking for a roller in good condition might actually end up being cheaper then fixing this one.
that's basically what i'm looking for right now re: looking for used parts - forums, ebay, cl. re: roller - haven't considered but outside my wheelhouse. there's on '03 evo 8 roller with unpainted hood, fenders, and WW 9 bumper that I need but he seems not interested in parting that out
