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evo 4-9 have a small oil channel from the big diff ring gear in the trans that takes oil into the transfer box... It goes across the transfer and is fed into the nose of the transferbox output on the right side of the car. From there it goes into the front diff (that sits in the sealed container that carries the transfer box ring gear), lubricates just the front diff (and the right side output bearing IIRC) and flows back into the gearbox trough the transfer box input shafts. So, in essence, the transfer gear and ACD clutch pack is lubricated by the 75w90 LS oil in the transfer box. Front diff shares the oil with the gearbox.
On evo X, the transfer box is missing a seal on the right side, that separates the front diff and transfer box oils, but has additional seals on the input side and no oil feed from the gearbox.. Also the outer diff housing has holes in it... So, on evo X, front diff shares oil with the transferbox and not the gearbox. Issue is, the X transfer and diff is larger and has space for those seals.. on older transferboxes it is a bit difficult to do.
apologies to circle back to this - what are my options for aluminum UICP + turbo inlet/intake with MAF adapter that fits stock battery? Just the Injen set?
don't have any recommendations on uicp (I make my own and have battery in the trunk) but I always liked the FP intake. Alloy intakes can play havoc on idle with maf..
Ooh, nice option. I’ve only gotten deep in the X suspension and never looked close at motor stuff. Using that power dist would be pretty nice. The fathouse bracket looks excessive and taking up more room than I want, I think I’ll order one and make something fancy in my style to mount
For OEM sized battery I think options are pretty limited for aluminum UICP to ETS and then rarer ones like the injen. I did do the battery relocation and run a heavy AGM battery out back with this setup under the hood:
It looks like a rats nest but this was when I was mocking it up....looks cleaner now. It's an aluminum plate with an Amazon terminal. There are definitely much more cleaner/baller setups but this works and I have no regrets.
Actually one regret. If I were to do this again I would just run a mini battery. Not like I daily my car anyways and I wouldn't have added a bunch of weight and complexity for the relocation.
Actually one regret. If I were to do this again I would just run a mini battery. Not like I daily my car anyways and I wouldn't have added a bunch of weight and complexity for the relocation.
This x17. Battery relocation only makes sense for guys who are forced to adhere to a minimum weight. Running a massive gage wire the entire length of the car adds a pretty good amount of weight.
The lawnmower batteries I've run in my car haven't let me down yet. Robust lead acid battery that weighs 9lbs and can be bought for under $100.
It's worse, the current trend is to run 2 massive wires. Adding in a ground straight to the block. Chassis ground isn't very reliable, especially with modern assemblies and ever increasing electrical load. I don't know if that's necessary for an evo, but I would probably do it if I was relocating.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Dec 7, 2020 at 07:42 AM.
Having dealt with dead batteries for dumb reasons, a full size battery sure gives a large buffer and one less thing to worry about. I do run a 2.5lbs lithium battery and 1lb mount, if I do a relocation I will add probably 50lbs but because the cantilever the scales will show around 13lbs off the front left corner. That's not insignificant to me.
Also, I am min weight limited. 2900lbs is my min, and I try to keep it around 2950 but I only care about removing front weight or moving CG rearward and down at this point.
I've no issues with the X having the batt in the back already. Makes life so much easier in the front because as mentioned earlier 90% of the work you don from up top is in that area on both platforms. If it's a REAL street car it's gonna have a bigger battery to survive unless it's a Li, and then we all know how much those like the heat of the engine bay. The weight added with quality wire is minimal compared to weight saved with mods you've likely already done.
This x17. Battery relocation only makes sense for guys who are forced to adhere to a minimum weight. Running a massive gage wire the entire length of the car adds a pretty good amount of weight.
The lawnmower batteries I've run in my car haven't let me down yet. Robust lead acid battery that weighs 9lbs and can be bought for under $100.
I'd still put it in the trunk. Get all the weight off the nose that you can in my opinion. Even the thick cable I run from back to front is 95% aft of the front axel and along the passenger side as opposed to being on the driver side where the OE battery is located. I dont think there is such thing as removing too much weight from the front on these platforms. Take all you can get.
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
It's worse, the current trend is to run 2 massive wires. Adding in a ground straight to the block. Chassis ground isn't very reliable, especially with modern assemblies and ever increasing electrical load. I don't know if that's necessary for an evo, but I would probably do it if I was relocating.
I dont follow this logic unless the car in question has horrible factory grounds. But for any unibody steel car, what's the point?
