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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 06:29 PM
  #1066  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
Mostly curiousity to see how much the extra displacement changes the behavior of the car. This won't be the last motor the car sees so I'd like to try different stuff and see where my preferences fall.

Any forged aftermarket crank is ~$600 regardless of stroke and since I won't be revving past 8k or making over 500whp I don't need anything more fancy than that. Forged crank, some mild rods and pistons, get the block machined, pick up another head, r2 cams and some springs and send it. There's still some details that I'm up in the air about but I've got time to decide.
Just for reference. Mine broke only making ~480hp and revving to 7800.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 06:39 PM
  #1067  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Just for reference. Mine broke only making ~480hp and revving to 7800.
Yea I'm opting of using the stock crank. After paying a machine shop to go over it and polish it, and refresh the rear main it wouldn't be much more for a quality aftermarket crank.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 07:24 PM
  #1068  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Just for reference. Mine broke only making ~480hp and revving to 7800.
After many years.

Aaron's went many years at 750whp+
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 07:29 PM
  #1069  
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Regardless, it's getting an aftermarket crank. After my ventures of machining the stock crank I don't want the hassle of possibly risking yet more crank issues with another refreshed stock crank. I'm willing to pay extra if that means increased reliability and I'm not losing seat time.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
After many years.

Aaron's went many years at 750whp+
Mine lasted about two years. Just into 3rd season broke where they do, at the 4th rod bearing.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 07:57 PM
  #1071  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Mine lasted about two years. Just into 3rd season broke where they do, at the 4th rod bearing.
Yeah I recall.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 08:44 PM
  #1072  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
Regardless, it's getting an aftermarket crank. After my ventures of machining the stock crank I don't want the hassle of possibly risking yet more crank issues with another refreshed stock crank. I'm willing to pay extra if that means increased reliability and I'm not losing seat time.
I'm starting to price out an engine rebuild if it comes down to it.

I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 03:30 AM
  #1073  
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Originally Posted by Construct
I'm starting to price out an engine rebuild if it comes down to it.

I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
I haven't really seen any bad stuff about K1 cranks so I wouldn't hesitate to use one. Personally I'll 95% likely be going with Callies. I've seen Manley, Eagle and Callies cranks first hand and the attention to detail on Callies seems to be a little bit better. For anything under 600whp (on a road course car) I don't see any value add with using a billet over a forged crank.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 08:24 AM
  #1074  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
I haven't really seen any bad stuff about K1 cranks so I wouldn't hesitate to use one. Personally I'll 95% likely be going with Callies. I've seen Manley, Eagle and Callies cranks first hand and the attention to detail on Callies seems to be a little bit better. For anything under 600whp (on a road course car) I don't see any value add with using a billet over a forged crank.
Originally Posted by Construct
I'm starting to price out an engine rebuild if it comes down to it.

I've been eyeing the K1 100mm crank for an all-out 2.4LR build. Is the K1 stuff worth the extra money over some of the cheaper options?
The only value of the billet would be weight.

FWIW, ER makes 1400whp with an Eagle forged 88mm crank. So everything I've been building lately has been getting an Eagle and they seem to do well. No issues with machine work. The just need balanced as they only come +/-2%.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Oct 24, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 11:45 AM
  #1075  
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I did the k1 billet cause it was 6 or 8 lbs lighter (iirc) so worth it to me keeping less weight off nose of the car.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 04:48 PM
  #1076  
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Talking

Originally Posted by ayoustin
No it's just because he's upside down. If you flip the photo it's on the proper side.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 11:22 AM
  #1077  
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So engine went back in on the weekend and we got gearbox and everything in. its ready to turn key once all the sensors are hooked up etc from the new haltech ecu.

It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.

all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.

Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!

Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:53 PM
  #1078  
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Originally Posted by bee-raddd
So engine went back in on the weekend and we got gearbox and everything in. its ready to turn key once all the sensors are hooked up etc from the new haltech ecu.

It is sooooooo much better with all the factory wiring gone and the haltech engine loom installed theres just so much extra space ur not tripping over cable looms everywhere and stuff. we had the gearbox hung and fully bolted up in an hour which is probably a new record.

all the interior bits are in now also. new pedal box mounts all painted up. new seat rails painted. pedal box and seat is bolted in. wiring mostly tucked in its final positions etc.

Just got to install my cusco LSD into the rear diff casing now and put some fluids in it then send it off to the tuner for the remainder of the wiring and tune!

Anybody mucked around with setting the backlash on ur diff before? going to have a go at it on this cusco.
We need pics or none of it happened.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 04:01 PM
  #1079  
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Dupe post
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 05:39 PM
  #1080  
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Looking forward to hear how Cusco rear LSD affects chassis, compared to RS rear LSD.
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