Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 22
From: Reading, MA
Basic AN line and fittings (not pushlok) is like 400+ PSI working pressure, and the that pressure limit is generally the hose burst pressure not the fittings. Plenty for the ACD system if it has a safety valve that opens at ~15bar.
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 126
Likes: 22
From: Sydney
Well Mitsu gave us one P map that is used by all 3 modes. It's their so called average P needed.
My bin is a 4 mode with 3 P maps that I can assign to the modes I want.
Road race, Tarmac, Race and wet/Gravel, 1st 2 use one P. The other 2 use 2 different Ps.
The P is a reducer from 35kph down for lighter steering. At 39kph it is roughly level/neutral
From 44kph onwards the figures in the collums become adders. 51/102/154/205deg etc
I look at the steering angles as minutes on the steering wheel. 51=8.5mins/17/25.6/34 and so on.
The figures that it inceases by from 44kph going straight to 51/8.5mins etc etc you feel in the wheel.
I heard using a larger acumulator is a step backwards because it takes longer to keep up.
My bin is a 4 mode with 3 P maps that I can assign to the modes I want.
Road race, Tarmac, Race and wet/Gravel, 1st 2 use one P. The other 2 use 2 different Ps.
The P is a reducer from 35kph down for lighter steering. At 39kph it is roughly level/neutral
From 44kph onwards the figures in the collums become adders. 51/102/154/205deg etc
I look at the steering angles as minutes on the steering wheel. 51=8.5mins/17/25.6/34 and so on.
The figures that it inceases by from 44kph going straight to 51/8.5mins etc etc you feel in the wheel.
I heard using a larger acumulator is a step backwards because it takes longer to keep up.
Fired up the Evo this morning after a ton of work putting it back together. It was extensively disassembled... This is where my bumpsteer is at for over 9 deg of caster. Reason to run this much? We have a ton of SAI and using the Caster to counter it. We also want the jacking effect to unload the inside rear more with the gymkhana rear diff.
I'm sure by now you guys know nothing on my car is quite standard. I make a 20mm offset top hat for most people but I also have done some 30mm hats. The 30mm hats lose about 1deg of max camber and with my particular strut mount (also custom, much longer than stock). But I needed the extra caster and still need 4deg of camber. I could either make a new strut mount with more camber but that would also move all my wheels 10mm further outboard.
Instead, I buried the ohlin bearing mount under the sheet metal so I only had to clear the nut. This got me in 11mm and my 1deg of camber back. So I should be north of 9deg of caster and sitting right at 4.1deg of camber. Yes, evos love and need camber! My car in particular sacrifices slider axis angle to get the wheels inboard making things a bit worse even with my uprights. Roll Centers are in a good place so the solution is more static camber. The reason for extreme caster is to combat the high amount of SAI and using the jacking effect to help unload the inside rear tire.
Instead, I buried the ohlin bearing mount under the sheet metal so I only had to clear the nut. This got me in 11mm and my 1deg of camber back. So I should be north of 9deg of caster and sitting right at 4.1deg of camber. Yes, evos love and need camber! My car in particular sacrifices slider axis angle to get the wheels inboard making things a bit worse even with my uprights. Roll Centers are in a good place so the solution is more static camber. The reason for extreme caster is to combat the high amount of SAI and using the jacking effect to help unload the inside rear tire.
Since this place is dead, Ima just keep posting updates 
It lives. Drove it to work today and will keep driving it to try and get enough miles on it before the season begins in a month. Sounds like it would normally be easy but this is a pain to drive on the street, and I only drive ~5k mi/year. So I'll have to go out of my way to put more miles in the car somehow.
It lives. Drove it to work today and will keep driving it to try and get enough miles on it before the season begins in a month. Sounds like it would normally be easy but this is a pain to drive on the street, and I only drive ~5k mi/year. So I'll have to go out of my way to put more miles in the car somehow.
I can tell you the gymkhana diff is TIGHT. As you can expect with a high preload 1way, even off throttle its popping around corners or even just bends. But it should smooth out as it breaks in, its already quieted down some after only 10miles.
Nope, not with the diffs super tight right now as they wear in and the R&P of the front and rear diff both new. I want to give at least 100mi before I play.
I can tell you the gymkhana diff is TIGHT. As you can expect with a high preload 1way, even off throttle its popping around corners or even just bends. But it should smooth out as it breaks in, its already quieted down some after only 10miles.
I can tell you the gymkhana diff is TIGHT. As you can expect with a high preload 1way, even off throttle its popping around corners or even just bends. But it should smooth out as it breaks in, its already quieted down some after only 10miles.
I'll add to the thread. This Evo8 2.2L is finally seeing progress. 94mm eagle crank, 150mm Carrillo Pro-H, ER spec Wiseco pistons with armor plate, ACL bearings.
It's getting the ER oil pump gear as well, HeadGames pocket port head, GSC S2's, CBRE ported intake and 65mm TB, and an ETS Vband Garrett G30-770 turbo kit.
It'll be flex fuel in stock Ecu. I'm excited to get it done and see how this turbo performs.
It's getting the ER oil pump gear as well, HeadGames pocket port head, GSC S2's, CBRE ported intake and 65mm TB, and an ETS Vband Garrett G30-770 turbo kit.
It'll be flex fuel in stock Ecu. I'm excited to get it done and see how this turbo performs.
