Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Sizing Chart
Nov 13, 2018, 10:25 AM
#1
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Sizing Chart
I've currently got the 24mm and was looking to upgrade to the 26mm. I have the Tanabe front sway bar.
The OEM rear sway bar is 22mm.
I'm looking at the sizing chart here: https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bu...e%20BL-281.pdf
Looking at the chart and it's reading instructions, and reading across the "Factory 22mm" line, the 24mm increases the factory stiffness by 19%, 42%, and 67%. The 26mm increases the factory stiffness by 67%, 95, and 127%.
I just want to make sure that I am reading that correctly, and that the softest setting on the 26 is the same as the stiffest setting on the 24.
The OEM rear sway bar is 22mm.
I'm looking at the sizing chart here: https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bu...e%20BL-281.pdf
Looking at the chart and it's reading instructions, and reading across the "Factory 22mm" line, the 24mm increases the factory stiffness by 19%, 42%, and 67%. The 26mm increases the factory stiffness by 67%, 95, and 127%.
I just want to make sure that I am reading that correctly, and that the softest setting on the 26 is the same as the stiffest setting on the 24.
Nov 13, 2018, 03:33 PM
#2
No, their chart there pretty much sums up my feeling towards what WL does on most things. Half-assed comes to mind.
Their bars change the leg length and angle that has a non-insignificant effect on the bar. I need to double check my measurements of the 26mm bar vs my measurements to see which hole I used to base the calculations.
FYI, I did measure the bar deflection with load applied to find the full bar rate (when doing math you typically use the half bar rate because one side moves up when other moves down) to validate my measurements and came up with about 5% error. The process was to add a high amount of load and measure deflection with an indicator inline with the bolt hole. Then reduce load to measure deflection change.
Their bars change the leg length and angle that has a non-insignificant effect on the bar. I need to double check my measurements of the 26mm bar vs my measurements to see which hole I used to base the calculations.
FYI, I did measure the bar deflection with load applied to find the full bar rate (when doing math you typically use the half bar rate because one side moves up when other moves down) to validate my measurements and came up with about 5% error. The process was to add a high amount of load and measure deflection with an indicator inline with the bolt hole. Then reduce load to measure deflection change.
Nov 13, 2018, 07:27 PM
#3
I agree with what Dallas is saying, the WL chart isn't completely accurate, BUT it make for a decent rule of thumb chart at least.
Swaybar testing is just like suspension springs, best results if tested yourself. I have a friend who tested his swaybars a couple years ago, if I feel motivated enough tomorrow I'll try to dig up some pictures of the setup he had to test it. It's not super complicated, after all it's just another spring.
I didn't find this out until this past weekend that wL bars are solid. Kinda sad because hollow bars are a good place to cut weight and spring rates are mostly influenced by outer diameter so there's not really any benefit to using a solid bar.
Swaybar testing is just like suspension springs, best results if tested yourself. I have a friend who tested his swaybars a couple years ago, if I feel motivated enough tomorrow I'll try to dig up some pictures of the setup he had to test it. It's not super complicated, after all it's just another spring.
I didn't find this out until this past weekend that wL bars are solid. Kinda sad because hollow bars are a good place to cut weight and spring rates are mostly influenced by outer diameter so there's not really any benefit to using a solid bar.
Nov 13, 2018, 09:40 PM
#4
+1 to the above read them as guidelines used to take those things more serious before one claimed it should be about the same and I spun the car and was heading towards a wall rearward....yeah not the same. Truthfully will depend on how the rest of the car is setup as well.
Nov 14, 2018, 05:22 AM
#5
I agree with what Dallas is saying, the WL chart isn't completely accurate, BUT it make for a decent rule of thumb chart at least.
Swaybar testing is just like suspension springs, best results if tested yourself. I have a friend who tested his swaybars a couple years ago, if I feel motivated enough tomorrow I'll try to dig up some pictures of the setup he had to test it. It's not super complicated, after all it's just another spring.
I didn't find this out until this past weekend that wL bars are solid. Kinda sad because hollow bars are a good place to cut weight and spring rates are mostly influenced by outer diameter so there's not really any benefit to using a solid bar.
Swaybar testing is just like suspension springs, best results if tested yourself. I have a friend who tested his swaybars a couple years ago, if I feel motivated enough tomorrow I'll try to dig up some pictures of the setup he had to test it. It's not super complicated, after all it's just another spring.
I didn't find this out until this past weekend that wL bars are solid. Kinda sad because hollow bars are a good place to cut weight and spring rates are mostly influenced by outer diameter so there's not really any benefit to using a solid bar.
Nov 14, 2018, 06:12 AM
#6
i guess i'm at least hoping the WL chart is consistent with itself, i.e., maybe not compared to factory settings, that's exactly accurate, but at least per their own bars, a 24mm stiff = 26mm soft.
i'm not really all that concerned about rear weight either
i'm not really all that concerned about rear weight either