Where to find odd wheel sizes and offsets
Mar 31, 2019, 09:20 AM
#1
Where to find odd wheel sizes and offsets
So, I see companies like Rota, etc offer wheels in a plethora of offsets, but only popular wheels are sold in stores.
I'm trying to find an 18x11 wheel with a high enough offset to fit Dallas' rear trailing arms and not make me install flares. Then I could use a spacer up front, as needed.
I can't get any of the US distributors, for any of these wheel companies, to reply to a request re: the other offsets.
Where would you guys start looking for an 18x11 wheel with a 44ish+ (for the sake of argument) offset?
Not "custom wheel" expensive would be a huge plus.
I'm trying to find an 18x11 wheel with a high enough offset to fit Dallas' rear trailing arms and not make me install flares. Then I could use a spacer up front, as needed.
I can't get any of the US distributors, for any of these wheel companies, to reply to a request re: the other offsets.
Where would you guys start looking for an 18x11 wheel with a 44ish+ (for the sake of argument) offset?
Not "custom wheel" expensive would be a huge plus.
Mar 31, 2019, 09:36 AM
#2
Basically Forgeline is the place we go to for custom wheel sizes that dont break the bank. But with those high offsets, you might also look in to mustang fits since its very similar to what they'd be running for 315s in the rear.
Also, 44ish sounds pretty close to right for what you can get away with if everything is perfect. I have 18x12 +32 and need a 10mm spacer because my spring perch is in the way. If I didnt have the articulating upper perch and a shorter spring, I could fit it all the way inside.
Also, 44ish sounds pretty close to right for what you can get away with if everything is perfect. I have 18x12 +32 and need a 10mm spacer because my spring perch is in the way. If I didnt have the articulating upper perch and a shorter spring, I could fit it all the way inside.
Mar 31, 2019, 11:36 AM
#3
Your options are:
1. Forgeline
That's it. 18x11 is not a common size. 10.5 are much easier to come by. I know we've covered this before but to fit an 11 back there you will need to do some serious pulling on the factory sheet metal. Don't expect all your paint to stay on the car.
1. Forgeline
That's it. 18x11 is not a common size. 10.5 are much easier to come by. I know we've covered this before but to fit an 11 back there you will need to do some serious pulling on the factory sheet metal. Don't expect all your paint to stay on the car.
Mar 31, 2019, 02:34 PM
#4
I recently missed out on a group buy for Apex EC-7 (mustang wheels) in that size/offset. $1050 shipped! Just really bad timing for me.
I'll look up Forgeline
Edit: Am I looking at the wrong wheel? Everything I see from Forgeline it's $1500+ per wheel. Damn.
I'll look up Forgeline
Edit: Am I looking at the wrong wheel? Everything I see from Forgeline it's $1500+ per wheel. Damn.
Last edited by kaj; Mar 31, 2019 at 02:49 PM.
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Mar 31, 2019, 06:51 PM
#8
That's the big problem I'm having grasping going with such a huge offset. At +35-40 on stock length arms I'm having to run 25mm of spacer to keep the tire off of the springs in 10 inch wheels (among other things). I can't see how going further inboard AND wider helps that. I'm running AST 5200's so it's pretty standard to all of us in width. Logic tells me to go with like +22, or am I reading this wrong.
Mar 31, 2019, 06:56 PM
#9
I know how to make 18x12 +32 fit in the rear with no spacer and front with ~10mm spacer. Stock length arms also. 315s are actually pretty close to fitting, maybe a super aggressive pull but cutting is the better bet since you can get lower.
Thats ~20mm more inside clearance than you're 18x11 +22 scenario. But don't expect its an easy/cheap route.
Thats ~20mm more inside clearance than you're 18x11 +22 scenario. But don't expect its an easy/cheap route.
Mar 31, 2019, 07:08 PM
#11
That's the big problem I'm having grasping going with such a huge offset. At +35-40 on stock length arms I'm having to run 25mm of spacer to keep the tire off of the springs in 10 inch wheels (among other things). I can't see how going further inboard AND wider helps that. I'm running AST 5200's so it's pretty standard to all of us in width. Logic tells me to go with like +22, or am I reading this wrong.
Mar 31, 2019, 10:43 PM
#12
Front arms? I'm looking for the highest offset I can fit in the rear to (hopefully) not have to cut/add fender flares. In the front, I can use spacers to clear whatever I need to, and I'm okay with that... but at least the rears would be less work. I don't mind tossing on some ABS flares to the front fenders, if need be. But touching the rear includes lots of extra work to fit, prevent rust, etc. I don't have resources to do all that.
1. Aftermarket body panel/flare
2. Pull the ever loving **** out of the outside metal (bye bye paint)
3. Cut inboard metal and still give a mildly healthy pull to the outside metal
No matter what way you slice it you'll end up doing some form of body work that will require rust protection. The factory wheel well just isn't big enough to fit a 315, frankly it's pretty amazing we can fit a 295 as easily as we can.
Front is considerably easier because you just need to keep the tire off the frame and space the fender out as far as needed. Right now my fenders are spaced 3/4" with oodles of room on a 275. A 295 will fit pretty snugly, a 315 will more than likely require further spacing and possibly some more metal work.
Next winter I'll probably sell one of my 10.5 sets and get an 11" set of wheels.
Apr 1, 2019, 12:26 AM
#13
Ordered a set of Forgestar F14s, the flat face, 10.5 +38 to just copy R/T Ernie. I wussed out and figured I shouldn't be pushing it more than he has. Should be here in 2 to 4 weeks so I'll post everything I can.
The concave 11" was tempting but I don't know what's going to be worse, the front inboard clearance to springs or the rear fenders. Also I don't want to lose any turning radius which is why I went with the 38 offset, I figure he would have said something or did his measurements. Maybe once I get mine in you can see how much room there is to go wider.
The concave 11" was tempting but I don't know what's going to be worse, the front inboard clearance to springs or the rear fenders. Also I don't want to lose any turning radius which is why I went with the 38 offset, I figure he would have said something or did his measurements. Maybe once I get mine in you can see how much room there is to go wider.
Apr 1, 2019, 04:31 AM
#14
Ordered a set of Forgestar F14s, the flat face, 10.5 +38 to just copy R/T Ernie. I wussed out and figured I shouldn't be pushing it more than he has. Should be here in 2 to 4 weeks so I'll post everything I can.
The concave 11" was tempting but I don't know what's going to be worse, the front inboard clearance to springs or the rear fenders. Also I don't want to lose any turning radius which is why I went with the 38 offset, I figure he would have said something or did his measurements. Maybe once I get mine in you can see how much room there is to go wider.
The concave 11" was tempting but I don't know what's going to be worse, the front inboard clearance to springs or the rear fenders. Also I don't want to lose any turning radius which is why I went with the 38 offset, I figure he would have said something or did his measurements. Maybe once I get mine in you can see how much room there is to go wider.
Apr 1, 2019, 08:36 AM
#15
Inboard clearance also means the shocks need to be short spring, no helper/tender, and remote canister (flag can will hit the wheel). Also, fuel filler neck is in just about the same area of limit. So that needs to be dealt with. After that, then cutting sheet metal can be done along with custom lower arms to further move the shock inboard. I can all be done, but A LOT more effort than just a bit of cutting. Comparatively, cutting the outer fender is easy.
Up front, fitting the top of the tire Isnt the issue, if you are in are enough to clear the fender, you will quickly run out of room for steering. If you space out far enough for steering, you have to cut the fender and bumper for to clear while steering. That steering part is far more of an issue than the bump clearance up top and cut car more than I thought Id have to when doing mine. That included even cutting one of the two bolts at the lower headlight mount, flipping/modding the bracket that supports it, and grinding some material off the headlight mount.
Its still possible, I could have OPR stick to the tire and come around and do some fun things to the headlight in the right scenario. I would say, if you dont want to cut fenders and get buck wild, stick with 295s. Slightly narrower and more important shorter. Or convince someone to make a short 315
