Where to find odd wheel sizes and offsets
Apr 1, 2019, 12:01 PM
#17
Your options to fit a 315 (or wider) in the rear are:
1. Aftermarket body panel/flare
2. Pull the ever loving **** out of the outside metal (bye bye paint)
3. Cut inboard metal and still give a mildly healthy pull to the outside metal
No matter what way you slice it you'll end up doing some form of body work that will require rust protection. The factory wheel well just isn't big enough to fit a 315, frankly it's pretty amazing we can fit a 295 as easily as we can.
Front is considerably easier because you just need to keep the tire off the frame and space the fender out as far as needed. Right now my fenders are spaced 3/4" with oodles of room on a 275. A 295 will fit pretty snugly, a 315 will more than likely require further spacing and possibly some more metal work.
Next winter I'll probably sell one of my 10.5 sets and get an 11" set of wheels.
1. Aftermarket body panel/flare
2. Pull the ever loving **** out of the outside metal (bye bye paint)
3. Cut inboard metal and still give a mildly healthy pull to the outside metal
No matter what way you slice it you'll end up doing some form of body work that will require rust protection. The factory wheel well just isn't big enough to fit a 315, frankly it's pretty amazing we can fit a 295 as easily as we can.
Front is considerably easier because you just need to keep the tire off the frame and space the fender out as far as needed. Right now my fenders are spaced 3/4" with oodles of room on a 275. A 295 will fit pretty snugly, a 315 will more than likely require further spacing and possibly some more metal work.
Next winter I'll probably sell one of my 10.5 sets and get an 11" set of wheels.
Deleted all but what Im responding to...
Inboard clearance also means the shocks need to be short spring, no helper/tender, and remote canister (flag can will hit the wheel). Also, fuel filler neck is in just about the same area of limit. So that needs to be dealt with. After that, then cutting sheet metal can be done along with custom lower arms to further move the shock inboard. I can all be done, but A LOT more effort than just a bit of cutting. Comparatively, cutting the outer fender is easy.
Up front, fitting the top of the tire Isnt the issue, if you are in are enough to clear the fender, you will quickly run out of room for steering. If you space out far enough for steering, you have to cut the fender and bumper for to clear while steering. That steering part is far more of an issue than the bump clearance up top and cut car more than I thought Id have to when doing mine. That included even cutting one of the two bolts at the lower headlight mount, flipping/modding the bracket that supports it, and grinding some material off the headlight mount.
Its still possible, I could have OPR stick to the tire and come around and do some fun things to the headlight in the right scenario. I would say, if you dont want to cut fenders and get buck wild, stick with 295s. Slightly narrower and more important shorter. Or convince someone to make a short 315
Inboard clearance also means the shocks need to be short spring, no helper/tender, and remote canister (flag can will hit the wheel). Also, fuel filler neck is in just about the same area of limit. So that needs to be dealt with. After that, then cutting sheet metal can be done along with custom lower arms to further move the shock inboard. I can all be done, but A LOT more effort than just a bit of cutting. Comparatively, cutting the outer fender is easy.
Up front, fitting the top of the tire Isnt the issue, if you are in are enough to clear the fender, you will quickly run out of room for steering. If you space out far enough for steering, you have to cut the fender and bumper for to clear while steering. That steering part is far more of an issue than the bump clearance up top and cut car more than I thought Id have to when doing mine. That included even cutting one of the two bolts at the lower headlight mount, flipping/modding the bracket that supports it, and grinding some material off the headlight mount.
Its still possible, I could have OPR stick to the tire and come around and do some fun things to the headlight in the right scenario. I would say, if you dont want to cut fenders and get buck wild, stick with 295s. Slightly narrower and more important shorter. Or convince someone to make a short 315
Some tires are a wide 295 (Toyo RR) so I still may do an 11" wheel. It seems I have to choose wheel width based on the brand of tire.
Apr 1, 2019, 05:10 PM
#19
However! I'd really, really like to run a 10.5 wheel, because then I go ahead with my 18x10.5 +30 NT03 and them pretty much done. Unless I can find something with a slightly higher offset.
Maybe just easier to do the NT03 and what fits fits. I'm not racing for money, so if I give up some width, it won't kill me. I think I just really wanted to say I had 3XXs on the car LOL
Apr 1, 2019, 06:43 PM
#20
The 10.5 number is the distance between the bead sealing surfaces. The actual width of the rim itself is a bit over 11". 315 can fit without looking absolutely obnoxious but the actualy benefit of going that wide on a 10.5 is debatable.
Haha and if you want to brag, lots of manufacturers list section width at 300mm for their 295s.
Haha and if you want to brag, lots of manufacturers list section width at 300mm for their 295s.
Apr 1, 2019, 08:52 PM
#23
255s seem.to.do.pretty danged well. I know a hand full of guys that have run low 1:50s at Buttonwillow on RS3s, RE71s, and NT01s in STis and Evos. I'm sure I could with a fever amount of practice and a bit of aero.I'm not 100% sure why I want wider other than I need 18s to fit my brakes so "may as well" go wider...?
255 NT01s are really wide, so how much will I really be gaining with a 295 Toyo?
If I could afford a better front caliper, I'd like to stay with my current setup. Actually, APs are probably cheaper than wheels and tires, especially after selling my X rotors + X MR rotors + IX calipers.
Hell, I need to make up my mind.
Does AP or Alcon make a front caliper that fits the OEM rotor and 17" RPF? Maybe I could just do that and find s way to snake ducting through my ACD pump.
Apr 2, 2019, 06:09 AM
#24
18s will pretty much always be faster than 17s but if the biggest reason you're switching is because of brakes you might need to look at some other aspects. I've never heard of someone on 17 street tires having brake issues becuase they're just not wide/sticky enough to overpower the stock calipers with some small improvements.
Last edited by Ayoustin; Apr 2, 2019 at 09:11 AM.
Apr 2, 2019, 07:50 AM
#25
255s seem.to.do.pretty danged well. I know a hand full of guys that have run low 1:50s at Buttonwillow on RS3s, RE71s, and NT01s in STis and Evos. I'm sure I could with a fever amount of practice and a bit of aero.I'm not 100% sure why I want wider other than I need 18s to fit my brakes so "may as well" go wider...?
255 NT01s are really wide, so how much will I really be gaining with a 295 Toyo?
Apr 2, 2019, 10:03 AM
#27
I don't believe the tires are being overheated. My car isn't all that fast, so I'm only scrubbing from about 120mph...though one course configuration had me braking from 120-40. I lost some pedal, which is what started me down this road:
Hot brakes
Need bigger brakes?
Then I need 18s
Now I may as well go wider.
Baaah
I'd like to only make necessary changes without going overboard/overkill.
I guess I could just start with my brake cooling ducts and see what happens. I'm just not sure how effective it would be, snaking the duct around the ACD pump. The hose won't be very straight.
Hot brakes
Need bigger brakes?
Then I need 18s
Now I may as well go wider.
Baaah
I'd like to only make necessary changes without going overboard/overkill.
I guess I could just start with my brake cooling ducts and see what happens. I'm just not sure how effective it would be, snaking the duct around the ACD pump. The hose won't be very straight.
Last edited by kaj; Apr 2, 2019 at 11:28 AM.
Apr 2, 2019, 10:12 AM
#28
EvoM Guru
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Apr 2, 2019, 10:36 AM
#29
Kaj I'd start with stainless pistons for the calipers and if you already have the ducts then add those too but the pistons will make a bigger difference. Good fluid and pistons and/or Ti heat shields is often all you need for 17/255s.
If you're still boiling fluid after that then start looking at more aggressive pad compounds as more aggressive compounds will not transmit heat to the pistons as easily as milder compounds.
Also be sure you aren't overbraking or draggimg the brakes, that will kill any brakes no matter how capable they are.
If you're still boiling fluid after that then start looking at more aggressive pad compounds as more aggressive compounds will not transmit heat to the pistons as easily as milder compounds.
Also be sure you aren't overbraking or draggimg the brakes, that will kill any brakes no matter how capable they are.
Apr 2, 2019, 11:35 AM
#30
Kaj I'd start with stainless pistons for the calipers and if you already have the ducts then add those too but the pistons will make a bigger difference. Good fluid and pistons and/or Ti heat shields is often all you need for 17/255s.
If you're still boiling fluid after that then start looking at more aggressive pad compounds as more aggressive compounds will not transmit heat to the pistons as easily as milder compounds.
Also be sure you aren't overbraking or draggimg the brakes, that will kill any brakes no matter how capable they are.
If you're still boiling fluid after that then start looking at more aggressive pad compounds as more aggressive compounds will not transmit heat to the pistons as easily as milder compounds.
Also be sure you aren't overbraking or draggimg the brakes, that will kill any brakes no matter how capable they are.
This is all good news because I actually like my setup and have quite a bit of $$$ tied up in it.