Hey guys, im back and can answer a few questions now. My setup is 18x12 +32 but with a 10mm spacer. Could have probably just gone +10 but I have plans to raise the spring perch and cut sheetmetal to increase inner clearance. But the inner sheetmetal (can take a pic of where it rubs later) definitely needs to be cut and moved to get anymore inboard.

My wheels stick out right now and I have several options here of flares to cover them. I just needed to finish this last weekend testing to make sure I didnt need anymore outside cutting. Flares will go on the rear soon and fronts I need to get the splitter sorted so the flare can roll all the way down to it to act also as my tire spat.

Its not trivial going the 315 route because they're wider and taller. You have to trim A LOT more than you think. Or run tall, but I wanted to be as low as possible. But once you make the first cut, things get easier. For ride height, I would be running the equivalent of 25" ground to fender edge front rear. But then I cut the fender up 2.25" all around.

 

Which flares did you decide on? I'm eyeballing a set I found for $30ish. They are about 30mm which is perfect for my setup (looking for a bit of extra coverage).

 

The thing I learned about flares is to avoid fiberglass and poly if you can. FG is brittle, and poly distorts and warps on hot days. There are some ebay kits for ~$50 that have two big and two small ABS flares. Those ones taper at the ends though and I decided I didnt like that. So I have these non-tapering 70mm flares Im planning to use. The idea I have is to run them on the front all the way down to the splitter so the full tire is covered from the front side. And I'll cut or vent the back edge so its no a big parachute.

 

Nice! Yeah, I ordered the 50/70mm set. Both were way too wide for my car LOL. I can't find any that don't taper. Can you post a link, please? Not that I need 70mm, but I'll search the vendor/manufacturer.
I believe all the ones I'm shopping are the same ABS flares, in black. Definitely staying away from the FG and will keep an eye out to be sure I'm not buying poly!

 

cars looking mint Kaj!

And Dallas is a wizard. His offset top hats did wonders to my laptimes

 

Dallas can u hurry up and update ur website i want to perve hahah

 

Or you could switch to 335s, and then you wouldn't have to buy new fender flares.

 

Nice! Theyre such a simple thing but caster make a huge difference for our strut and high SAI cars.

 

The wear pattern would be funny. Probably half the tire would be brand new. I could flip them and start all over.

I'd like a bit more to move my wheel back some.

 

I have a fixed version I did that moves the wheel 30mm and is fixed position. But even I don't use that much offset and I can push the wheel forward more than anyone that doesn't have my control arms.

 

Much past 6 deg positive and I'm into bumper and voltex fender shaving.

 

Welcome to my world hahahaha a battery dremel becomes ur best friend.

 

Found it out in March after I cut your tie rod bolts back and did the swing measurement with a buddy and was like wtf, I used to run 9 deg I thought with the offset arm bushing but I could be wrong. At 6.1 deg I can't fit a small screwdriver between the tire and the bumper...after already cutting the inside completely off with an air saw LoL.

Srsly, why do we even have stock bodies anymore, why can't someone just make a fiberglass or carbon full race kit that clips together Grand Am style.

 

Dallas I'm interested in your front LCA simply to move the wheel forward in the well. Did I understand you have a fixed version?

 

For real, my fenders and stuff are cut so much now to get full steering clearance.

The two versions I have are basically standard 8/9 and a 20mm longer one that matches the X. Either arm will fit either car but after trying both I prefer to keep the standard length on my car.