Finally installed my SSB rear trailing arms
Apr 30, 2019, 07:59 PM
#32
As long as you clear the fender with the wheel turned and you're not rubbing the headlight bracket there's nothing important in front of the wheel to rub. My fender liners have the front portion cut off, just the top and rear of it are left. Some small debris stuff gets thrown behind the bumper but nothing serious.
May 1, 2019, 11:17 AM
#33
EvoM Guru
Found it out in March after I cut your tie rod bolts back and did the swing measurement with a buddy and was like wtf, I used to run 9 deg I thought with the offset arm bushing but I could be wrong. At 6.1 deg I can't fit a small screwdriver between the tire and the bumper...after already cutting the inside completely off with an air saw LoL.
Srsly, why do we even have stock bodies anymore, why can't someone just make a fiberglass or carbon full race kit that clips together Grand Am style.
Srsly, why do we even have stock bodies anymore, why can't someone just make a fiberglass or carbon full race kit that clips together Grand Am style.
My wheels hit my splitter too when its in the air if i turn the wheels one way and the flat floor and side skirt when i go the other way. makes bleeding the ACD near impossible haha. just gna bridge the pump in future i think.
Im actually trialling a set of 265s out and they seem to be just as fast as my 285s so i might swap over. seem to heat up quicker and stay in the window longer too.
May 1, 2019, 11:24 AM
#34
Same compound frm the 265 to the 285s? I can see them heating up quicker for sure but a smaller tire falling off later vs a larger one doesnt seem to make that much sense IMO.
As for bleeding ACD resident expert Kiki might chime in but I've found the jumping it to be the easiest and most effective method. I made a ghetto harness and power the pump till you hear the pitch change as pressure in the accumulator rises then stop and apply power to the solenoid and purge it. Do that a few times and you're golden
As for bleeding ACD resident expert Kiki might chime in but I've found the jumping it to be the easiest and most effective method. I made a ghetto harness and power the pump till you hear the pitch change as pressure in the accumulator rises then stop and apply power to the solenoid and purge it. Do that a few times and you're golden
May 1, 2019, 11:47 AM
#36
EvoM Guru
the way i used to do it was car on stands in gear and u get somebody to rev the car up to 3000ish rpm and turn the wheel from left to right to activate the solenoid. but i think id rather just force it like ur saying. where do u force the solenoids ? hopefully not at the pump itself haha i cant really get to mine.
As for the 265s vs 285s i think what is happening is we have to start the 285s at a higher pressure to get them to start up in the first place, so once they do heat up the pressure goes too high and they fall over. so being able to start the 265s at a lower pressure yet they heat up faster. once they are hot they are at a lower pressure and therefore dont fall over the curve as quick. Thats my thinking anyway. more testing back to back is needed but early indications are the pace is at least similar
As for the 265s vs 285s i think what is happening is we have to start the 285s at a higher pressure to get them to start up in the first place, so once they do heat up the pressure goes too high and they fall over. so being able to start the 265s at a lower pressure yet they heat up faster. once they are hot they are at a lower pressure and therefore dont fall over the curve as quick. Thats my thinking anyway. more testing back to back is needed but early indications are the pace is at least similar
May 1, 2019, 12:41 PM
#38
Evolved Member
Same compound frm the 265 to the 285s? I can see them heating up quicker for sure but a smaller tire falling off later vs a larger one doesnt seem to make that much sense IMO.
As for bleeding ACD resident expert Kiki might chime in but I've found the jumping it to be the easiest and most effective method. I made a ghetto harness and power the pump till you hear the pitch change as pressure in the accumulator rises then stop and apply power to the solenoid and purge it. Do that a few times and you're golden
As for bleeding ACD resident expert Kiki might chime in but I've found the jumping it to be the easiest and most effective method. I made a ghetto harness and power the pump till you hear the pitch change as pressure in the accumulator rises then stop and apply power to the solenoid and purge it. Do that a few times and you're golden
We just used the main ACD pump connector where all the solenoid wires go and control it from there...
May 1, 2019, 12:41 PM
#39
Evolved Member
May 1, 2019, 12:44 PM
#40
Evolved Member
May 1, 2019, 02:55 PM
#41
EvoM Guru
The guy who invented evoscan is from new zealand and i tried to get him to help me he sent me a new cable etc but nothing helped.
May 1, 2019, 03:11 PM
#43
Evolved Member
I used the throttle method initially (when doing the clutch for example) but when you overhaul the pump, and get all that air in, a bleed box just makes sense..