Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Wallet ready

Why the ZE40 over the RE30? But yes pics again please from the usual angels.

edit: Answered my own question - availability lol. I'm thinking of going with 11" partly due to availability and partly because the 315 bfg's tend to list 11.5 max. Even though I've heard they're wider even in this size..dunno.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

The ZE40 was the only Volk on my list because its very specific to being as light as possible from their Time Attack series. I cant find a lighter wheel in that 18x12 size, or I would have considered that instead

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Where are the weights listed these days, I see WEDS weights on Evasive but not volks.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I found the weights in a couple places but it was mostly shops selling these when they first came out for GTRs showing actual weights. They're 20.6lbs (or something right around that) compared to my 25.7lb forgestars. And that's in 18x12. Very few options up in that size without being heavy and/or super expensive.

I also considered CCW but they arent much lighter than the 25lbs in 18x12

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Yeesh, SM life can be rough. **** is in a constant state of wanting to fail.

This last weekend I had some odd ignition issues that seemed to creep up more with the wifes driving but had felt it several times before. Checked under the hood and something was pushing #3 cyl plug wire up against the cover and it was bowed. I pulled the cover and could definitely tell things werent fully seated. One wire also felt like it had some internal play in it. I put the cover back on and we were able to finish the runs but hit some hesitation at times on course.

Back story, on the way to a local event the car would only sputter thru a 3rd gear pull on the freeway after sitting a winter with E85 in the lines (as it always has but usually gets driven every few weeks). Had a spare set of plugs to swap in after trying to let it cool an hour or so. Going back in #3 and #4 were not happy. They felt super tight and was worried we may strip some threads. I got them to where I thought it was fully in but feel was hard with how tight they were but what I think happened is the corrosion at the tip of the plug buggered up the threads on the way out hot.

At home I measured the depth of the plugs to a reference. Compared to #1 and 2, #3 was 10mm high and #4 was 5mm high. So gently pulled them out and luckily no threads came with them. Looking as best I could all the threads were there so I ordered a tap to just clean them up and all new ignition components. Just finished chasing the threads and all plugs threaded in by hand, WHEW! Looks like I dodged a bullet there and super happy I could easily fix before SoloNats.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Ouch Dallas sounds like you did indeed dodge a bullet; glad you were able to get sorted out!

I too have had my fair share of SM failures this year since getting car back together. In no particular here's where I'm at since the rebuild...car getting way too hot, as in boiling coolant as she heat soaks in the pits. I just added a 13" SPAL on the front and that seems to have helped there. I lifted the head a few events ago, didnt retorque head studs and for some reason they decided all to loosen up some, which of course has never happened to me in the past but these did for some reason. Valve cover bolts are working there way out. In fairness there it seems I had not been cranking em down enough but after torquing down they seem a little better but are still loosening up some. I will try all new hardware but may go to blue loctite or safety wire sadly.

Today I almost made it through an entire event without a failure but on the last run I broke the car again. After getting off the line the car felt like a turd. I thought it was maybe a partial boost leak where it hadnt come off completely but bad enough that boost would be lazy. Or perhaps plugs were done and it was simply breaking up. I just got back home threw her up in the air and all couplers are fine and then I noticed the v band from my o2 housing to downpipe had come loose. I was pumped to find that and assumption was that it was banging around and knock sensor was getting tripped thus timing is pulled and car feels like a turd. I tightened it up and ripped it down my street and car still sucked. Back in the garage I decided to check the plugs. Well first plug in I realize the plug hole is covered in oil. Ive had the VC off so many times recently and havent been replacing the gasket and tube seals each time as they can typically be reused. At least in all these years of ownership I've only replaced the VC gasket a couple times and the cover has been off at least a solid 50 times. Well anyway then I decided to pull the VC again to check em out since oil shouldnt be getting in there. After removing the VC yep I see signs of oil getting in there which hopefully is just as simple as new tube seals. Im not sure what else that could be?

But more troublesome was my next find and my big big issue for the day. I found a rocker thrown off just sitting in my head. There is a mark on the roller portion and the lifter took a hit and is damaged. Im hoping nothing else got damaged, thankfully it didnt get lodged into anything and crack the head from what I can tell. I have GSC lifters in the car so hopefully I can order just one vs a set as well as a new rocker and be back on my way. It does make me wonder if perhaps that valve could have bent in the process? Ive never thrown a rocker so this is uncharted waters for me. It could be a fairly cheap fix but I wont know until I get new parts and try again.

BlueX702

Great Thread!

Ran my first AX event last weekend here in Las Vegas. I had a blast! I finished last in SM out of 8. I purchased a fairly modified Evo 9. Built 2.0L, bolt-ons, buddy club coils, white line rsb, endlinks, ect…

Plenty of power(tuned by ER)

I know my weak link was tires. Bridgestone RE760 255/35r18 The car did come with two RE71's(other two were trashed)

What would you guys recommend for me to be more competitive?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

More driving... lol. Sorry to say but itll take you a long time till someone with experience cant hop in your car and drive much quicker. Though nothing wrong with putting on a decent set of tires. Id probably just get a set of Rivals since you're in vegas and they like heat.

To add to more driving, also getting someone better than you to drive with you a couple times will also pay off big. Along with collecting data with Solostorm if you decide its what you want to spend your weekends doing.

But dont get discouraged. I have a cup from my first autocross in 2004, Last place of 14. Only 15 years later, I do pretty good

BlueX702

My buddy that competes in ASP with his Evo 9, did a ride along on my first run. We then immediately jumped in his car and he showed me what the Evo is actually capable of. My mind was blown, but yet inspired to push harder.

Just watching him i improved my time by 12 seconds, but he was still 8 seconds faster than my best. Lol

I appreciate the tips!

Sub’d

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Hey Eric it's Sean. As we've talked about, Ohlins will be a big first step to make the car a lot better. Also a dedicated set of tires/wheels. Either Rivals or RE71r's. And then we need to turn the car down so you can learn how to drive the courses instead of overwhelming yourself just trying to drive a stock turbo car with 450wtq while you're learning.

The suspension on his car is pretty terrible. Coupled with a lot of torque, it doesn't help. We can make the car better and dial the power down some to make it better to learn in.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Certainly nothing wrong with moving to a known good point and less is more when it comes to learning to drive and power. Takes a lot of skill to actually make power work for you and torque spikes just make that all worse.

BlueX702

Yup! I’m excited for the ohlins.

Do you think the other low boost map would be more appropriate?

BlueX702

Just looking it over in ecuflash, it seems to be targeting 24psi.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yes it would be much more appropriate. I doubt Aaron has boost targeting on, but it's def less boost, a bit less timing, and a bit more fuel for safety in racing conditions.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

FYI, I rarely run at full power (~500whp). Im usually running more like 400hp which will feel a bit more like 360 on your car cause the 4.11 gears I run. Its plenty of power where more doesnt really equal faster laps. But its a good amount to actually drive the car around the cones and not just shoot from cone to cone and typically overshoot. Really need to focus at this level about turning around the cones and not at the cones, so less is more there.