I meant to type "before" it starts hoping. Fixed.
Once it gets bouncing I could see there possibly being a loss of traction, though I don't think my wheel is moving that much. The car hops, but I notice no change in cornering grip, if that makes sense. While I am weighting/unweighting the tire, it doesn't feel like it ever comes off the ground/spins/etc. I've been keeping an eye on video and pictures of the car to see if anything looks odd. So far, looks normal.

 

Skip to 6:30, looks like even pro time attack teams deal with this as well. Looks crazy violent in slo mo

 

Looks like the drive-line oscillating power across the corners as grip comes and goes. Also seems to happen when they hit a burm or uneven road surface. And its on corner exit when they are on the power which adds to the suspension loading and diffs locking so its like a chain reaction.

 

Feels as violent as it looks.

 

Was at Buttonwillow this last weekend with my freshly broken in TRE diff and a new set of NT01's. Up until this day I had only ever tracked on RE71R's but switched to NT01's per the advice from West End with the hopes to get more track days out of them before they heat cycle out.

It was hard for me to feel any difference with the TRE diff over the non restacked stock diff but I did run into the hopping issue coming out out of the "off ramp" turn in second gear. Was an odd feeling but even though it was jerky I could tell that I was exiting faster than with the stock diff where I would just push under power and feel wheel spin until I started to unwind the wheel.

Currently my rear hotchkis bar is set on the middle setting so I will set it on the softest setting next time and play with the damper settings also.

 

what's the rest of your setup? i still don't think ive experienced any hopping yet

 

This is what it looks like at the extreme end of hopping.

Setup was something like 900/900, WL front bar, WL rear 26mm bar (no clue on settings), 285 hoosiers, TRE diff, OEM front diff, and around 25.75-26" ground to fender both front rear.

I thought I could take that last corner on throttle and things went wrong real fast. Spectators said my car literally left the ground.

So what was wrong with the setup? Too much front spring/bar, not enough rear spring. Front diff inadequate. Front roll center too low.

 

R&T's revalved for 12k front 14k rear and beefy helper springs out back. (damper setting unknown :P)
SSB rear trailing arms
SSB front uprights
Stock front sway bar with cusco mounts but set on stock setting still
Hotchkis rear bar always set on the middle setting
18x10 with 275/35 NT01's
3.7* camber front 2.1* out back (West End changed the rear from 2.5 to 2.1? but unsure why)
0 toe front and rear
Front height at 26.5 ground to fender and rear set at 25.5 ground to fender
03 so no front LSD and no ACD
3,465lbs with driver and half tank of gas

 

I would definitely drop the front as low as you can tolerate with my uprights in there and get some kind of front diff.

What seems to be a very common theme on the hope is this torque bounce front to rear when the center locks and opens as one end starts slipping. Different setups just seem to induce it or hide it better than others. So having an open front diff its going to be hard to not get the inside front spinning then locking up center then the shock of rear all the sudden pushing the car. Then the center opens and front starts spinning again. I think same thing happens regardless of ACD or viscous and just some odd harmonic the Evo has.

 

You run stock rake?

P.S. My car doesn't have AYC

 

On stock uprights I would run the front high and rear low. Rake has some effect on aero but a big effect on roll axis slope. My vid was back in 13' when were were still learning and had no clue really. I just lowered both ends as much as I could. Though with RC correction, I still lower the car as much as I can.

 

Nice! So I'll be able to get rid of my front fender gap??!!