Do you swap rotors when you swap pads?

I've been swapping rotors and pads at the same time, with a dedicated set of track rotors. It's not much more work, but I've always wondered if it's overkill.

 

I keep the same rotors, which makes me wonder what the effect of burnishing pads then swapping to street pads has on the next time I put on the track pads. I was told that running street pads will "clean" the rotors and they should be ready to re-burnish.
All I know is DDing the track pads made the pads and rotors not happy... they just didn't seem to work as well until I sanded down the pads and rotors, then burnished again.
I plan to swap to Carbotech, sometime soon. Carbotech says you can swap between their track and street pads without having to transfer pad material all over again.
I'm sure swapping pads and rotors would have solved the problem. At least for the fronts. The rears don't squeak, so not too worried about those...

 

Couldn't agree more.

Additional question, how does everyone feel about the beatrush undertray?

 

i swap in st43s for track days in fronts, girodisc s/s in rear. then swap in front s/s for all other stuff. setup hasn't failed me yet

 

VIR is not that hard on brakes really, especially if you are a novice. I was last there in a 2017 V6 Camaro with 4-piston Brembos. I’m used to Hawk DTC race pads on my Evo, but thought I’d be fine with Hawk’s street/track compound on a bone stock 330hp Camaro with street tires. I mostly was, but I needed to back off by the end of sessions when the brakes started fading. (This is running in Advanced group.). If you drive like a typical instructed novice, the DS2500s are probably okay, but they will wear quick (that’s my street/autox pad). Definitely pack an extra set of pads to bring with you.

 

As others have said, it all depends upon how you drive, use your brakes, how hard you are pushing, what the temperature will be that day, how much pad life is left on those pads and how much time you'll be out on track (among other things).

I've lost my brakes previously on a track before and it's definitely an eye opener. In my opinion, I'd simply go with the ST43's and play it safe. I'm unsure how quickly those Ferodo's "drop off" once you exceed your limitations, but if it was anything like I experienced (my brakes were gone at the end of a 110mph straight), I would go with pads that are designed for the track from the get go and have one less worry while you're out on track.

EDIT: Not to mention this probably won't be your ONLY track event, right? So why not go with a true track pad from the start?

My $0.02

 

Novices often brake softer, for longer, which really heats up pads. Not saying that's you, OP, just tossing it out there.
I'd error on the side of a better pad (the only part on a car I would over do) if you can. If not, just be mindful of what your pads are doing. You'll be fine.

 

Track pads will wipe the transfer layer off rotors pretty quickly once they're up to temp. I've never seen someone have issues swapping between pads and leaving rotors alone.

 

how's this relate to then as far as bedding pads/rotors go? Pointless if you're going to track on them?

 

Hey Sam. Bedding the pads is not only rotor related but pad related as well.

The pad material needs to get up to that required initial temp where the Gas-off of the brake resins occurs. The pads have to gas-off those resins so they perform correctly

If i understood your question correctly?

 

gotcha. then once a pad's been bedded it's good. re: the rotor though, i assume track days will make bedding or re-bedding pointless

 

Easiest way getting them working right is to spend the extra $10 and buy prebed pads (if the manufacturer offers it).

 

i've already bedded the pads, but wondering if i need to bed the rotors again or if the track day will do it for me

 

Yeah, i never re-bedded. I would pull my StopTech streets out & swap in the CarbTechs. Now, i was getting some pad deposit on the rotors but would just clean that up w/some paper. Those Centric blanks really took a beating but held up very well

 

Ah. I get a decent layer when I bed, but it's pretty much gone after DDing with either pad.
DDing on the track pads = they end up looking really shiny and don't seem to bite any more. So, then I sand that layer off and then the grab like craaaazy. I get everything burnished again and good to go.