ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

So squad... Here's where I'm at.

I've had the car (9mr at 305whp) off the road for 4 years. As it was setup it was on star specs (stock size) and dba5000/4000 rotors with the ferodo2500s. There was a lot of good chatter about those pads when I grabbed them but as I'm staring down the barrel of an hpde at vir I'm wondering if those pads are going to be useless or not.

I know the brake thread has great info in it. But one thing I really want to ask is... Will running those ferodos be fine or am I gonna end up ducking out early because I thrashed something.

I only have the stock cooling fins. And I do have a beatrush undertray, but the consensus seems to be that that's no good for brakes...

Should I really grab a set of xp10s or raysbestos st43s? If it's a situation where I'm not going to be able to drive home on the ferodos after the weekend, I suppose a set of track pads is worth it?

Someone talk me into or out of something.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It depends on you driving skill level and how fast you are. Novice drivers tend to do ok with "regular" brakes their first couple times out. Especially since you're on stock size tires.

But an upgrade to ST43's certainly won't hurt.

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

I'm a perfectly fast sim driver but have no delusions about real life skills. My seat time exists, but it's limited. I'll be in novice class. I'm fine running my ferodos if they'll stand up to the temps and allow me to drive home (1.5hrs) without dying lol.

But realistically, if I'm going to cook them and/or use up a significant portion of their life, and then just need to buy another set of street pads... Why not go to track pads? Oh right. Money.

So I suppose my real question is, will going to a track pad actually just save me money in the long run?

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

It's not about saving money, it's about being safe. I've seen as many novices who don't use the brakes as much as ones who use them too much.

I've seen some guys love the 2500s and others say they're inadequate. If you don't have previous track experience on those pads I would spring for a more serious pad especially considering the track you'll be at.

And anyway, if it were about saving money, you'll make that money back spent on pads when you don't end up in a sandtrap or wall.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Im a former Carbotech user. Ran the 10's up front & the 9's in the rear IIRC

They have a definite cold squeak as any track pad would. Once up to op temp, they are quiet but its like tossing
out the anchor. Amazing brake for any HPDE

I use to pull my StopTech street pads out just before an event & drop in the CT's. Would drive to the track w/them already loaded

Construct

iTrader: (4)

You don't have to, or want to, go 9/10 or 10/10 at an HPDE. DS2500 will probably be fine, but be prepared to back off for a cool-down lap as soon as you notice any signs of brake fade.

I would, however, put some fresh brake fluid in before the HPDE. Older fluid will not perform as well as new fluid.

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

Oh yeah... don't mix my words up on me now. Safety is paramount which is actually why I'm asking this question. Also why I run with a 2.5lb Halon extinguisher etc...

I suppose rather than asking the age old question of... TELL ME THE BEST STREET/TRACK PAD lol ... what I really want to know is... if novice driver runs DS2500s on track, and I fade them, I can bow out early... but at that point, they're probably used up pretty good and I'd need new pads anyway.

I looked into the XP10/8 combo, but the Raysbestos pads are basically the same price and seem pretty well loved. Aside from being a play on asbestos, how bad could it be?

You guys think it's ok to drive to and from on some track pads, or you think swap them there?

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I'm flushing in the RBF 660 this weekend.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

It might help to review the DS2500 coefficient of friction chart: https://www.ferodoracing.com/product...e-pads/ds2500/

The DS2500 friction declines as temperature increases. If you're the type of of person who can sense minor changes in braking, you can actually feel this as it happens. I don't think the pads will necessarily wear unreasonably fast unless you push past the upper temperature limit and try to compensate with more pedal pressure, but I could be wrong.

I drive to and from on ST43 track pads. It's not a problem. The brakes do require a bit more pressure when they're cold, but it's not like I'd be unable to stop.

The only real problem is the noise. Track pads can be unreasonably noisy on the street. The ST43 are downright embarrassing when I pull up to a stop light. Everyone at the intersection turns to look at the guy with the bad brakes.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Did you have to burnish the Carbotechs or did they work right away?

+1. Nothing wrong with a few spirited lap then taking one or two to cool down an bit. No need to go all-out for the whole session, every session. You'll still get plenty of seat time.

If you can find Carbotech for the same price as ST43, definitely go with the Carbotech. I haven't found a pad that works better. I always swap pads at home, get them burnished in, then drive to the track with them. Swapping/burnishing at the track is a lot less fun.

My GF pretty much refuses to ride in the car with the ST43s in.

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

After installing and bedding ST43s they haven't come out of the car. Weekend cruise, auto-x, or HDPE that's what's loaded. My decel rattle lets the people know I'm decelerating for the stoplight and the ST43s let em know when I actually need to apply brakes.

Construct

iTrader: (4)

I barely want to be in the car with the ST43s on the street. Great on the track. Miserable everywhere else.

I coast up to stop lights and then quickly brake at 70-80% to minimize the time spent squealing.

Last time I swapped back to DS2500s, the Ferrodos started squealing lightly as well, even though I swap rotors at the same time. Maybe the squeal is contagious.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Its just a track day, no one wins a track day. Dont try to go out and kill it so hard you're cooking DS2500s.

Ease into it, work your way up to some quick 9/10s laps. If you feel you're over heating the brakes then ease off things to 6-7/10s.

At this point you're probably not capable of running 10/10s without being 11,12, or worse/10s and depending on the place on track it may not tolerate that.

Most important part of an HDPE, drive the car home in one piece.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Yeah.. I tried to leave them on.. but wasn't happening. Also, I couldn't get them to work as well after DDing them. It looked like the pads were glazing a bit? I sanded them and the rotors down, then did the burnishing procedure again. Now they work awesome again.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Im no expert, but i always do a "bed-in" procedure. I followed the CT written process