Dbl post

 

Maybe an access port? Like the OEM undertray. Or is that the hole your talking about?

 

I think going from the side is going to be the only way, splitter going to be too low to get a jack under since even now my bumper is to low (my car is probably lower than all-ya'lls though)

 

I hear you, since I installed coilovers I've had to jack up the left side a bit, throw a 2 inch thick concrete square under the tire, then lower it onto that to be able to get the jack under my lip and access the front point.
"

 

Yea I mean you can just grab a drill and a sawzall and cut a hole for the jack to go through. I'm not incorporating that into the design because things move around and putting a hole in one spot won't fit for everyone. Quite frankly I have no issues jacking on the sides of my car and if I need to use the front jack point I'll just drop the splitter to use it.

 

I'm guessing you would probably want to remove it anyway to do any serious wrenching on the front end anyway.

 

Titanium is so brittle it doesnt really work for alot of applications on a car apart from looking pretty.

Only spot i can really see an advantage would be in an exhaust. We used dairy tube stainless on ours which is very thin walled and almost as light however. Just probably not very easy to get ahold of if ur not in the industry.

 

I have been talking to some specialists who can roll flat sheet into tube to make mesub 1 mm wall 80 mm tubing..

 

Weighed at impound from the race this weekend. With 3/4 tank she was 3219 as raced. Sigh, need to get on that diet.....for both of us lol.

 

Have a look into Murray Clamps for the boost hoses, seems to be what people this side of the pond use when not going full Wiggins.

Also did you ever see the engine positioning of the Redbrick Evo VII? Surely there must be weight saving in a tubular front sub too that allows you to get the engine that low?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/06/...brick_evo_vii/

 

the redbrick evo used to run carbon kevlar wheels. not sure if it still does

 

TimC909, transmission is lowest part of the powertrain: even if doing dry sump, lowering the motor is iffy proposition.
After much thought, I would not do it.

 

Its easy enough to make something be the lowest point of the car. Zack runs their car with 2-2.25" of ground cleraance at several points. My suspension also only has 2" of bump travel before things bottom out on purpose. If I am able to lower the motor, it still wont be the lowest thing. Even if I can only get 1/2" I'll do everything I can to get it.

At this point improving my car is all in "a little here, a little there" cause its way far gone. And at the top of any class, its the details that put you ahead.

 

I know it sounds stupid but I'd ...almost....be down for Ti lugnuts again. As Dallas has fought for lowering rotating mass that's a good starting point. Do it like CBRD had them, 17mm hex. But not 450 bucks....and not "you must order them as a set, no one off's"

 

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