I think I will pick up a few packs of Nork-Lock washers, figure get some M8 and M10 and that should cover most. I never really thought about using them under the bolt head rather just with nuts but should work the same regardless.

In the meantime I'd like to compile a list of target areas or high risk areas. I look at it from a safety perspective as well as reliability.

It seems my car has crossed the line from where in the past was modified and driven hard yet remained fairly reliable for what it is. Of course I'd go through it after events but things remained fairly status quo. Now on the other hand seems after like every drive I need to go through the entire thing but far more meticulous. Take my most recent PS bolts backing out. There are 3 bolts on the bottom and I bet they didnt come out at the same time so I clearly missed that in my last health check. Now I know but I would have never thought about that in the past.

 

You just need to tighten the bolts more. I have four cars running no balance shafts here. One is the guy's daily. Stuff doesn't fall off..,

 

Lol that is step one but I still would like some additional insurance if you will if it wont cost me much and wont make it super annoying to work on. But yes I will for sure give up on torquing a lot of these fasteners that probably dont matter, just need to break the habit as so many of these parts are R&R all the time and I literally have torque specs memorized at this point lol. But seems new torque spec should be tight.

Also worth noting youre just a silly hard parker All those other cars are LIES!!!

 

Some times some bolts just dont want to stay tight no matter what you do. That was our turbo bolts on the DSM. We tried a bunch of different antiseizes, locktites, and lock washers. It was definitely nord-lock that fixed those stubborn things.

On the evo, Ive had a couple things work themselves loose with the 2.2, solid mounts, and no balance shafts but its all been very minor. I dont see keeping bolts tight as any reason to bother with keeping the balance shafts on a motor build. And anything we can do in an evo to use less oil, means more oil for right handers.

 

Yeah I mean I started this thread in here because I knew I wasn't the only one that has dealt with this issue. Like I said I'd like to make a list of problem areas so I know to address them or at the very least get into a cadence where I check em accordingly and mark with paint pen or something.

I have zero interest in putting back in balance shafts and without derailing this thread by getting into BS or no BS debate to me it seems the lesser of the evils to delete it. My limiter is set to like 9200 so yeah that BS belt would probably get flung in short order and take out the entire motor. And yes also to your point lost the last motor from those pesky right handers so please oil just go back to pan where you belong

 

remember that the torque specs ur looking at are dry torque specs. when u apply anti seize to a bolt you actually need to up the torque.

Anyway like everybody is saying throw ur torque specs list out the window its a waste of time. everything should either be 2 ugga duggas tight or F.N tight. **** comes loose on a track car esp if ur hammering kerbs and stuff. I use blue loctite on quite alot of stuff e.g the valve cover bolts to keep them tight. We use lockwire on the likes of the manifold to turbo bolts but lockwire is no good for anything that is holding oil etc as it allows it to back off enough that it can begin to leak.

You should be doing a full spanner check once a weekend anyway if ur regularly competing. if your getting alot of vibration from the engine im wondering if maybe stuff isnt quite balanced as closely as it should be in ur motor. But it does sound like maybe you need a gym membership for ya birthday and get them bolts a bit tighter!

 

You actually lower the required torque when lubricant is applied to a fastener. The reduced friction lowers the torque valve (how hard you pull on the wrench) needed to obtain the desired stretch.

 

*Knocking on wood* I'm also doing road course stuff with no balance shafts, etc. Nothing comes loose that I've found, so far and I torque everything to spec. Like.. I'm **** about it. The valve cover bolts.. interesting.. and very scary to tighten more LOL

I think I have those on my turbo-to-mani bolts/studs. Are they the dome-shaped, opposed washers? @letsgetthisdone told me about them. Purchased a set right away. I never thought about using them else where, but great idea. Safe for use anywhere lockwashers are used, I'm guessing?

 

Nord lock are different. They have engagement teeth. Google it, hard to explain.

 

You're probably thinking of Belleville spring lock washers. Those kind of work but it's mostly for smaller threaded fasteners.

 

Ah! I have seen those. Forgot all about them. It's been a while. I do like those.It's like having 100 lock washers

Yep. That's them. So far, so good. I haven't had them loosen on me, yet. *still knocking on wood*.

 

I dont recall if the Evo has the same turbo bolt setup DSMs came with, but factory lock washers on the DSM was essentially two belville washers and a specific stack. Are Evos just flat washers from the factory? Lol, to many cars rolling in my head.

 

Evo's come with a single belville. I stack them against each other. It helps.

 

Basically moving forward Im saying F the torque specs and just crank em down (within reason of course). I also think one of my big issues here is that previously the car was my DD and living in MA the car saw snow and salt. As such I was always **** about using antiseize on fasteners and never posed an issue since motor still had balance shafts installed. Now clearly not the case so I guess antiseize does not belong on a racecar?

But once again, if a lubricant is applied to the threads then if I were to torque to spec I'd actually achieve an overtorque. Clearly its not enough or once again the antiseize is helping it loosen up or in the case of something like VC bolts where im not using antiseize theyre just working their way out so blue loctite here I come there?

I sent Sean this pic from the other day...LOL! So when I did my motor rebuild I pulled off the pump to clean off the rust. Well, I used antiseize on those 2x M6 bolts. Guess they're getting some blue this go around! Sucked bc lost ABS after 1st run and didnt notive that until I got home hahahah! Whoops!


Great catch subframe!

 

i mean honestly it sounds like your getting more vibration than you should. makes me think something isnt quite balanced good enough in the engine. we balance everything in our motor even the crank pulley is balanced. you could try a fluid damper type crank pulley might help with vibration otherwise have a good look at ur engine mounts maybe one is broken or worn out.

I dont really loctite much stuff only stuff i know can be a pain and come loose. You definately want anti seize on anything hot side e.g exhaust manifold studs and turbo bolts etc. and i also try use stainless here. The occasional lick of anti seize is also good on lower suspension bolts but if ur removing that stuff often it will be fine.