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Rötheli Racing - Time Attack EVO VIII

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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 01:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Phil1291
We could literally make hundreds of that front bumper. But i‘m afraid, it wouldn‘t fit for a „Standard“ EVO.
The front is made for our cooling system and that‘s pretty far away from OEM.

Hey Phil any chance of some detailed pictures and explanation of how you set up the cooling system? I am looking to move my radiators also and tube frame the front end.
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 09:51 PM
  #32  
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You can find a lot of detailled pictures of how we built the prototype in one of my Albums.
We did the build in 2016.

https://www.facebook.com/RoetheliRacing/

We calculated a lot with a friend of mine who‘s an aerodynamic engineer.
That was so much work and so much time...
I’m sorry, but i can‘t share any of these calculations and detail drawings. I hope you understand that.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 10:13 AM
  #33  
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Hey Phil just going through your photos on facebook, Howcome your no longer using the rear diffuser? or is it just coincidence in the later pics its not installed?
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 01:28 PM
  #34  
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We do use the rear diffusor always while racing.
Some pics are just from the workshop or unloading and during these times, the diffusor isn‘t installed.



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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 02:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Phil1291
We do use the rear diffusor always while racing.
Some pics are just from the workshop or unloading and during these times, the diffusor isn‘t installed.



i see! and the bumper is just cut to allow the diffuser to fit? Just trying to work out pro's and cons of a diffuser vs cutting the bumper away
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 02:52 PM
  #36  
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Bumper is removed for many reasons. One is the diffusor yes.

You can read hundreds of articles and books about why you should have a diffusor.

Main reasons:
1. It supports the front end because it pulls out the air from under the car and therefore the frontsplitter works better.
2. It supports the rear wing and therefore the wing works better too.
3. I don‘t like if the air can go wherever it pleases, so i want to guide it as good as i can. And that‘s only possible with a diffusor.

That‘s why i would always prefer a diffusor instead of just cutting the bumper.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 04:02 PM
  #37  
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Hows come you opt for the two large rear tunnels but no fins or center tunnels?
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 06:31 AM
  #38  
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First of all we created the diffusor. We calculated the size, angle etc. by hand and built it accordingly. We don't have any more fins because they're only wasting space of the diffusor. Every fin blocks a few cm3 of the diffusor. And if you don't have a wind tunnel or proper CFD calculating where to put the fins so they use more than they harm, you better don't use any.
That's why we only have one small fin on each side, so the air is guided the right way at the edges where it is most important.

That said, the two big tunnels on each side of the diffusor are a necessity because:
1. I want to have the rear wheel arches proper vented.
2. I didn't wanted them to interact with the diffusor.
3. It should look at least a little bit nice. =)
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 10:30 AM
  #39  
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This Weekend we rebuilt a lot of small stuff and changed the rear Brakes to new Alcon Race.

Fun fact:
The new 2-piece 343x28mm Discs are ~550g/piece heavier than the old 299x20mm Porsche Discs. But the Caliper is ~600g/piece lighter.

And they match our Weds TC-105X quite well.









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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:09 PM
  #40  
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Remind us what's on the fronts?
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:35 PM
  #41  
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Already Alcon Race 365x32mm

That‘s why i choose the Alcon Race for the rear too.

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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 12:51 PM
  #42  
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Ya I'm looking at that rear now. I have AP Radi's on the front but they won't for the life of us make a rear for the Evo platform, 9 or X.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 01:18 PM
  #43  
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Just to add to it, I checked Phil's effective brake bias changed from Rotors and piston area from stock to the Alcon setup. Its a 3-4% shift rearward which should be great. Hes non-ABS so will be able to dial things in from there.
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Picked these up too, though my fronts are 272mm. Finally someone putting it together like it ought to be. Though it looks like I may have to clip the pad pin as it's a press in or is that a bolt?
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 09:08 PM
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To change the front pads, you have to unbolt the two hex bolts of the H-Brace.

For the rear it’s just a stud with a safety pin which you can remove without tools.

Last edited by Phil1291; Jan 21, 2020 at 12:05 AM.
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