Ya my front AP's have bolts too, but good to know the Alcon rears have a pin already.

 

They actually came with a spring clip option in the box. Well mine did anyway. Maybe only available on the 25mm pad endurance calipers? this is what it looks like here

https://www.essexparts.com/storage/w...ew_one_WEB.jpg

I prefer the bolt style anyway. still only takes 2 minutes to do a pad change.

 

We get a lot of questions asked about the parts/brands we use and detailed technical information.
So we think about making a short video series and explain why we built the car the way we did.

Question:
Would that be interesting for you?
And what questions do you have?
Aero, Engine, Suspension etc.

Videos will be in german and english. Both with a very bad swiss accent.

 

Gear ratios, final drive ratio, suspension, tyre type and acd settings?
That would be a pretty good understanding of your setup.
Thamks !

 

Depending on how much you wanna geek out, if you're gonna go over it in super detail then make 3 videos - Suspension/Brakes, Aero, Drivetrain. Gives moments to talk about why you choose sponsor X for part Y without making the video an hour long lol.

 

Phil, did you have to shim the rear alcon's to fit center? It may be Dallas's knuckles but mine bias to the inside when then wheel is mounted on by a good 3mm.

 

Does that kit bolt up to the same side as the OEM caliper with the bolt coming in from inside of the car direction or does it flip to mounting on the outside? I could see there being an issue if it flipped sides because I have to make the mounting ears thicker being aluminum. For equivalent stiffness/strength aluminum needs to be 3^(1/3) or about 1.44x as thick.

 

Ya it's from the inside, bracket sits on the outside and has the threads pulling it in. Its weird because the center bore on the rotor hat tends to get "stuck" on the hub rather then sitting loosy goosy. So I'm curious how his went on.

 

I have the OEM Uprights and the brakes where 3mm offset.

After talking to Ross from Ross Sport, we quickly discovered the problem.
It‘s the missing heat shield between the hub and the wheel bearing.

So i looked for a quick solution and made a „spacer“ from 1,5mm Aluminum between the wheel bearing and the hub.

Now the brakes are perfectly centered. We‘ll make them better for the ones we will really use. This was just the prototype.

 

Ahh, we didnt think about the shift from removing the e-brake though that would be common between OEM or my rear uprights. But I can quickly model a spacer and measure a heat shield at home to get some spacers water jet.

 

I knew it. Who the heck runs a heat shield anymore.....let alone e brakes for a "Race" titled product lol Texting you now dallas. Thanks Phil!

At the same rate, couldn't we put the spacer between the rotor and the hub?

Or put a washer between the bracket and the oem hub mount points?

 

Class requirements pretty much. But having them in general is pretty dang convenient.

Spacing the rotor is an option too but I wouldnt want the rotor to move too far and get off the centering ring which is a bit bigger diameter than wheel bore of the hub.

 

ha i think we fell into this trap also! we just use washers between caliper and hub lol

 

What sort of washers where? Caliper doesn't "mount" to the "hub" per say lol.

 

the caliper bolts to the upright essentially in the rear via 2 bolts. we have a washer between the mating faces of the caliper and the upright/hub to get the caliper spacing on the disc to be even inside to outside. due to us removing the handbrake and dust shields etc